The only way to limit without reprogramming is to use some weaker batteries and smaller wires.
So you're saying that the light doesn't turn off when you turn off the switch? Sounds like a bad switch to me. You could have no driver at all and when you turn off the switch there should be no light coming from that LED.
i used the switch only to power on / toggle the logic of the driver separate from the “power part” - like using a remote FET
it worked in the beginning - then startet glowing
i used then a second driver because i thought i harmed the driver while soldering…
that one worked nice also at the beginning, but after a few “hot runs” it behaved similar to the first - like as some current is leaking over the even not powered driver?
from “experimental” phase 
Whaa? 11amps is too much for XHP70? That’s the range I was hoping for…
But yeah, sounds like a bad switch. Wait, is the SD75 a side clicky?
Maybe the 7135 is heating up too much...it shouldn't be, but I guess that it is possible. I turned the duty cycle down to 40% maximum on it.
Are you sure there aren't any small wires or pieces of solder somewhere causing a small short? No offense, but that soldering and those wires look pretty messy.
in that picture, looks like some stray solder between Batt+ center pad and the 7135 output pin. Could cause a problem.
i will resolder my mess 
anyone can see now why i do not build my own drivers… :d
i mounted the switch of a s2+ instead of the side switch ….
because i did not want to have all current go that path i mounted sidestream to separate emitter current from that 16 mA the driver consumes…
thinking of the need to limit to 8A i might include the switch with thinnerwires in the main current path…
So your side side is not a momentary / e-switch but instead a on-off clicky? And the positive wire from the driver only connects to the side switch, correct? This is not exactly the normal arrangement. The driver and firmware likely was never tested / confirmed bug free in this arrangement.
Even if it turns out a stray wire is not the cause of this issue and the source is the driver, I wouldn’t call it a defect when you’re using it in a different arrangement than intended.
I don’t understand how you are operating it without the switch in the main circuit.
yes - i replaced the momentary with the clicky switch thin red goes to the switch - black goes to positive pad of the driver
since bat+ on spring side of the driver is exactly the same as LED+ on the populated side it should make no difference to connect that “outside” the driver.
but you are right… not as others use it.
but once a man used fire to BBQ a cow instead of illuminating a cave… 
I see, the switch is on the driver batt+ supply. Makes sense now.
This is how a lot of the Maglite mods are done. Basically, you can get the current carrying capacity of an e-switch but with a clicky: You switch the positive wire going into the driver, leaving the negative wire hooked up to the driver. The positive wire to the LED bypasses the driver.
With batteries capable of supplying 10A+ it is possible that the 7135 is overheating. I may have to turn it down more. It isn't used at all on the highest level, but it is used throughout the other six.
Caution, Thorfire changed the TG06. Brighter, but changed from a reverse to a forward switch and reshuffled the mode order. Monentary switch with multiple modes is a pita, imo, not to mention more likely to power on in pocket. I also prefer starting in low for small pocket lights. From their Amazon listing:
Note: We made some changes according to customers' opinion. Please note the information on retail box and manul is for old TG06. Sorry for the misunderstanding.
We are selling New TG06:
High current, MAX 254 - 300LM when using premium 14500 battery.
Tactical switch for momentary-on
3 mode: High/Low/Mid, always start at High
You need to tab the switch to change modes when the light is off or full click to change modes when the light is on.
Both O-ring on head and tail cap is black.
Old TG06:
Low current, MAX 166-185LM when using premium 14500 battery.
Not tactical switch.
3 mode: Low/High/Mid, always start at Low.
Both O-ring on head and tail cap is green.
I see it too. Just cut that little stray off and see if it makes a difference.
Can anyone tell me, for a 3-3.5A XM-L2, which new high capacity 18650 will give the least voltage sag, the LG MJ1 or the Sanyo/Panasonic GA? I’ve been out of the loop for the last 6 or 8 months, and I’m not totally up to speed on the newest 18650 cells. The LG MH1, Pana BD’s, etc. could be on the table as well, I suppose. I’ve got a decent supply of high drain batteries for the crazy insane DD lights :evil: , but I need a couple more for my more reasonable XM-L2 and XP-L lights. 
Those panasonic GA’s are good cells. I have one in a fet driven light and it does 5+ Amp’s.
I don’t have a LG MJ1 but they would be almost the same as the pana GA.
From what I understand/remember, the Panny/Sanyos ever-so-slightly outperform the Lg’s.
So least sag:
BD
MH1
GA
MJ1
I think they’re all really close though. I went with MJ1’s for the cost savings on bigger capacity, and 30Q’s for all my hot rods
Awesome, thanks guys!
I don't know why you had to have a sale going on but you convinced me the brass beauty needs a triple nichia 219C/FET combo and the sinner needs some xpl's. I would say thanks but I don't know how long I'll be around to be thankful, after the MRS finds out....
FWIW, the CNQG brass 18650 doesn’t have room to fit a triple. The Sinner should fit it easily though.
Yea I figured it would be tough. I knew it was too small but I haven't had a triple mcpcb available for comparison, kind of hoping I can file it down enough to fit. If not there's always another host, I'm due for an S7, I ordered two last year, haven't seen them yet.