My wife lost the holster for my Noctigon Meteor M43 on the way to the deer stand last weekend…where can I buy a replacement?
Dale, Tellurium? Are you serious? I had to look it up to make sure that it wasn't something from Back to the Future.
Wife or holster?
Fairly sure it is still illegal to buy a wife…
Lol, good one…she felt bad because she knows I love my lights.
If RMM doesn’t have them, try Hank at IOS, he may be able to get you another. They are nice holsters, so let us know if you find one.
RMM said he has one, just have to figure out how to buy it.
Tellurium, yep… it’s supposed to machine easier, more like brass. I bought a 1 1/2” long piece of 2 1/2” bar stock in Tellurium Copper, $40 (used a sale coupon) and a heavy chunk it is too! Why, you may ask? I was thinking of making a 50mm triple X6. 
Yeah, I know, crazy right? The plan was to machine it to fit on the threads of the copper pill on the SS/Cu X6 from Krono’s group buy, then use this nice 50mm diameter triple optic with a Cutter triple XHP-50 for around 10,000 lumens.
Maybe I will, maybe I won’t, but in the meantime I’ve got all these parts and, well, hopefully I’ll be back up to working on the lathe soon…
I hope your crazy plan succeed and it is so good that we all can’t help ourselves but force nitro to start producing 50mm heads for our X6’s ready for this upgrade :bigsmile:
Or even better we get Manker to do a run of super X6’s with 50mm triple heads. But it would probable be to expensive to get the numbers we need for them to do it though, maybe it could be possible with a alu head, that i prefer anyway because of lower weight.
Come to think of it now, i really want a alu X6 50mm head light, as a great replacement for the missing Jacob A60’s. I am sure such a light would sell really well here with a strong fet driver + an XP-L HI 
Interjecting -
I recently installed a QLITE driver (from MTN) with NLITE firmware in a small host and I’ve closed stars 2 and 4, giving me moonlight and no mode memory. Now, no matter what mode I stop on (low - med - high), when I attempt to switch modes, it jumps right back to moon, forcing me to cycle through the modes to get to where I want. For now, I’ve just desoldered #4 to keep memory on, and at least that way it doesn’t kick me back to moon.
I’ve never used a driver with the NLITE FW on it, so I wasn’t sure if that was normal or if there’s something else going on there.
I assumed that it would recognize the difference between off and change by timing the off cycle, but it doesn’t seem to be able to differentiate. That leads me to believe that the timer is set to low. I’m guessing here since I don’t know the program…
It doesn’t use the off-time, it uses on-time instead.
If you turn the light on then tap the button quickly, it will advance to the next mode. And again and again if you keep doing it. But as soon as you leave it on for a couple seconds without interruption, it decides you’re done. So, the next time you press the button it will either invoke memory or reset to moon.
With memory, that means you have to tap the button twice to change modes after it has been on for a while. With no memory, it means you will have to start over from the beginning.
Fixing this requires different firmware, and optionally some hardware changes too.
Thank you - I was comparing it to the standard firmware for many lights (eg. Convoy) where they operate with on-time memory but do not send you back to the first mode when continuing through the sequence. For me, I would prefer not starting over each time, so it looks like I’ll be reordering my latest MTN order with different fw options.
Richard, I emailed you regarding order #11791 placed 11/16/15.
Thanks for the clarification!
If you're used to the on-time memory that the Convoy lights use, then re-enable memory (open star 4) and it should operate the same way.
I went ahead and opened 4 back up for now.
I am used to it, but I vastly prefer off-time. I’m not a fan of clicking twice before mode switching. But the recycling through modes can be a nuisance, so NLITE is a dealbreaker for some use-specific lights.
I also prefer off-time, now that I'm used to it. I still have the NLITE available because there are some customers who are used to on-time and prefer not to switch over.
I think I lost this question yesterday to a system slow moment, retyping:
I have an amber XP-E2, driven by a Qlite with five 7135 chips, in a S2+ — I think five of these chips equals the max recommended 1.9A
Lately when I’ve had it mostly on high during a 20-minute walk, it will suddenly drop to what seems like a moonlight level (which the driver normally doesn’t offer me, it’s just l-m-h-strobe-sos.
Is that how the turbo timer works? I thought it would just drop to the next level lower.
Hmmm, wish I’d kept better track of which driver is which (sigh).
That’s odd Hank, normally step-down reduces to a pre-set level or ramps gradually down. Dropping straight down to a super low seems like an issue with the firmware. Have you checked a cell at that point to see what it’s Voltage was reading? It could actually be a bad 7135 failing, but that shouldn’t make it drop that low. Did you just remove 3 of the existing 7135’s and leave the pads bare? Is the emitter getting too hot? Maybe take a reading on the diode to ensure it’s proper, sometimes they go bad and maybe the heat at that point makes it shut down? Don’t know. Richard would be able to pinpoint that probably, I’m about out of questions.
Protected cell? Does it do the same with any cell? A protected cell could be shutting down due to heat, again not sure about that one as I don’t run amber LED’s.
Hope something in this jumbled mess of questions helps…
L-M-H-Strobe-SOS? Are you sure the last mode isn't a beacon? I'm pretty sure that the qlite firmware doesn't have an SOS, so it sounds like it is probably guppydrv. If it is qlite, you would have had to solder star 2 to get to the 5-mode configuration.
On either firmware, that sounds like the low voltage protection kicking in. 20 minutes is pretty early, but have you checked your battery voltage when it does it? At 1.9A I would suspect that the voltage would have to be down below 3.6v on most batteries unless they were pretty weak.
Uh, yep, beacon.
It is Qlite, with 5x7135s, and with star 2 soldered — cleaner than I could’ve done it (grin)
Likely it was the low battery mode, as I was using a salvaged computer cell last night.
“Panasonic CGR18650” light blue and fairly old.
I’d just never pushed the light into that mode before, I guess.
Checking another of the same batch in the same light on high
— from a fresh full indicated 4.2v charge down to 3.9v in less than four minutes.
Yep. That was it.
Hi Richard, I just put one of the FET+1 drivers with Toykeeper’s firmware (the ones that you had on sale) in one of my lights. For some reason I can’t get it out of moonlight mode. A few times, the brightness slowly ramped up and then back down. I’m not sure what happening.
Have you used other drivers with the same UI? Could you make a video to demonstrate the weird behavior? What happens if you quickly tap the button ~20 times?
If a short half-press doesn’t make it change modes, it might have a short causing the OTC to drain too quickly.
It’s also possible that something on the board might not be soldered 100%, which can usually be fixed by re-melting each contact point. It only takes a light, quick touch. I generally put on a fine-point iron tip and touch each pin or pad for like half a second, in case something didn’t connect fully during the initial build, and it has often fixed issues.