Back in stock:
- Most batteries
- Most drivers
Coming back in the next few days (have already shipped):
- Most Convoy
- Most LEDs
New/Revived Products:
- Sony VTC4 & VTC5 | Flat Top & Button Top
Why does my medium mode kick down to moonlight? Guppydrv rev2. I usually have my light tailstanding on medium or low depending on .... But anyway this new rev 2 FET driver I put in my sinner likes to kick down to moonlight at random. at forst I thought it was a liw battery issue but the cells are still 3.6/3.8/4.0/4.1 when it happens. (Vtc5 or 25R) I switched mode groups to 5% & 100% and even the 5% mode kicks down to moonlight whenever it feels like it. I haven't set any turbo timer on this light yet that I am aware of.
Just fyi, this sinner is pretty awesome. I'm getting 12.3A at the tailcap with triple xpl's. The 30% medium makes the head hot but the battery tube and tail stay warm enough you can hang onto it forever and it kicks out a TON of light. I want to try a 25% medium to see if the head still gets as hot, probably will.
Does it ramp down quickly like a low battery, or jump straight to moonlight?
Jumps straight to moonlight. It will "ramp down" when the batteries hit 2.8V Like it should, a couple flashes and it's there. When it drops to moonlight it's a quick flash to moonlight. When I cycle the mode it goes to high, then back to low.
My lights have GuppyDrv2 and I can’t explain what you are seeing. Is it possible your switch is the issue? Does tapping the tail on the floor or lightly massaging the switch bring it back from ‘moonlight’?
That's bizarre. I've seen that happen on some super high amp lights (like 10A+) but only in the 50%-80% mode range...never in the 33% or below, and definitely not in the 5%. Make sure that your ground and all connections are solid. If that doesn't work, send me a PM and we'll get something worked out.
Well, here we go again. 
Have you ever had one of those times when you just wanted to build something different? I got some extension tubes for the M2-Z flashlight so it could be more easily utilized for XHP50 and MT-G2 builds and needed to try them out. Well, I also saw the reflowed XHP35 I had sitting there and though I'd make sure that it worked too! 
XHP35 in the part-OP reflector. I think that a SMO may work better though, but I don't have any right now (most regular C8 reflectors fit in this light). This reflector works great with a shaved XHP50.
Is it a bit long? 
Yeah, but it's got runtime! This one has a MTN-MAX 22mm in it running at about 2.9A output. This way I can run 4x18650 of any type and not worry about frying the LED. I guess I could also put 5 on there if I wanted to... 
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I hope you guys are getting excited for Christmas! I know I am. This is the first time that my son is old enough to realize what is going on, so I am very excited for him.
I think that after you see this you'll agree that I should not be providing such a service! To my defense, it was 2 A.M. and for some reason Vinh likes to engrave sitting on the floor instead of at a table. 
Hello, I have a hankering (southern USA term) for a tan meteor in cool white. Any ideas about when they might be back in stock? I would probably settle for a gray if there is a big time differential. P. S. Thanks for all you do for us flashlight nuts!
No, the switch doesn't seem to be an issue, I just tried beating it off my hand a few times and it didn't change modes or anything. I double sprung and braided the driver, tailswitch has a brass button, definitely good solid contact, it grabs on the second turn but still has 3/16" play or better. Enough play that I was debating installing a 5mm copper spacer.
Another thing that rules out the switch being an issue is the mode group I have it set to now is 5%-100%, if the tailswitch was changing modes it still wouldn't end up on Moonlight.
honestly I haven't even put a amp meter on anything but high mode, fully charged vtc5 it read 12.3a. The driver is soldered to the pill, and there is an extra ground wire inside the pill that is bolted in and soldered to the ground ring inside. This is the first driver I have installed that didn't have a high pitched whine when on a medium or low mode.....that or maybe the copper host and O rings do a better job of insulating the noise?
Anyway, I'm probably pulling this driver to try out the new mtn17ddM when it gets here. I don't have another triple around here to try it in but if you want to stick it in a light and see what you can see I'll send it back to ya. I'm not trying to say it's defective or get reimbursed because it does still work... It's just weird that it has a turbo timer on low mode and I was just thinking I could gain some insight here.
haha yea I'd leave the engraving to the engravers! I have tried a few times but it's almost as good as your job there...
I was suggesting the driver was still in high mode but you had a poor connection at the tail limiting the power.
Like the connection of the switch to the aluminum body. Or the switch’s internal contacts being burnt. Transferring that much power will heat up poor connections and cause odd things to happen.
oh I gotcha. I highly doubt it's got anything to do with a bad connection. It has a kan-28 reverse clicky switch and the tabs are bent one up one down, sandwiched tight between two pieces of brass. (Sulmans design)
You two guys sitting on the floor in your socks at 2:00am, while Wayne is filming you engraving for the first time = PRICELESS!! :bigsmile: Thanks for sharing Richard that was way COOL!! 
2:00 AM with a noisy grinder! sounds like my house every night.
I wonder what surprises Rick has for us this coming year. I remember him showing off his monster M6 last New Year’s Eve.
I just got some gray in today, but none in tan. 
Looking forward to the AA boost driver! Is it something that can be adapted to electronic switches with moppydrv firmware too?
E-switch may not be a good idea because the drain will be very high. The MCU gets the power it needs by bootstrapping off the boosted LED output because it can't run on 1V or even 1.5V. This means that even if the FET was off the LED driver would be on the whole time. You would need a separate tiny boost converter but on a 15mm board that probably isn't realistic and the cost would also increase.
Ah ok. Im just stoked about a good boost driver.