both resistors are part of the low voltage protection and one of the caps is for off time memory. The mode levels are set in the UI that is installed in the MCU.
I don’t know how the driver responds with a triple when tested outside of a host, you might want to build the light and make sure that it does or does not work and take it from there. Richard tests his drivers very thoroughly to establish the settings, so unless you’re testing with a very inferior cell the driver should not be at fault.
I tried everything I don't know what the problem is. I have two working mtn17dd drivers with guppydrv rev2. They work fine outside a host. I went a little crazy and dug out all my old broken drivers, mostly + or - contact pads snapped off the board from using 20 ga wire to the LED, and swapped all the mcu's in an attempt to find one with guppydrv rev 1, and none were.
I stripped the mtn17ddm board and resoldered everything back on. No help, it's still not working on lower modes. Maybe I'm just missing something on the assembly. There really isn't instructions showing which way the sod 323 diode and resistors need oriented, I just used the instructions for the DD boards and matched the corresponding pads, the bottom of the numbers facing the ground ring.
Probably just have to order a dozen more parts kits and keep trying until I get it right.
You got the driver kit? Orientation does not matter with any resistors or capacitors but the diode does have a correct orientation and the driver will not work at all if backwards.
The diode has a line on it that needs to face the MCU (essentially, the line end is at the trace leading to the MCU, not physically facing it). The resistors and capacitors don’t matter which direction. The 7135 chip (does yours have that?) pretty much only goes on in one direction with it’s 3 legs on one side and one wide leg on the other. The MCU itself has a triangle at leg one, which is almost always closest to the ground ring. It’s also common for the FET to be upside down as far as the numbering on the component are concerned.
Typically if there are problems in the lower modes on an FET+1 then it’s the 7135 chip and/or the setting in the MCU. If the MCU is set for a very very low moon, it probably won’t work a triple. A setting of 1 in the 1 to 255 scheme of things will provide a very low moon for a single emitter but it takes a 4 or more for a triple and some lights need even higher, depending on the combination of parts and/or emitters. I’ve seen 6V emitters with a Zener modification to the driver need up to a 17 on the low end, but that’s rare.
Richard knows all of this far better than I do, if you let him know what you’re planning to build, he’ll recommend the proper settings and take care of that for you if he’s flashing the MCU.
I’ve tried putting the 16,20 mm sink pad boards in a few different lights with the get zener driver and only get high mode I’m using the guppy 1 software and I’ve tried with and without reflector in and don’t see any other reason it’s doing this I don’t see anything grounding out tried different fet zener drivers also please help
It's supposed to be the moonlight (not firefly) low, but even the 2% and 5% low modes don't work....I also had it connected to my xml2 "test light" which is just an old half burnt still working xml2 in a chopped in half sk68 host With wires sticking out the back....and no low mode. I'll re solder the 7135 and see what happens though...kinda already did that twice but it won't hurt a third time.
1. If you have a multimeter check -ve and the base of mcpcb for continuity.
2. Use a fine sandpaper on the edge of the mcpcb, when milling the board there is a chance that the copper trace is touching with the copper, but very unlikely as the silicon layer is quite thick. Also check the amount of solder you’ve applied.
Again, quite bizarre. We might have to talk this one out over the phone. I didn't test that one on a triple, but all of the FET drivers I do test on an actual LED. I check the maximum output, that all of the modes work, and that the memory/no memory works.
Moonlight works in a triple. I've built several lights of my own with them.
RMM just placed an order with you on Friday I think, and Boom it is here. Who would have thunk it to Alaska that fast. WOW
I am a real big fan of you for 2 reasons, fast shipping and did not put on the Alaska Tax, “Oh you live in Alaska, we have to charge more for shipping.”
I will have to start looking for more stuff on your site now.
Yes you really are “in the dark” since you life in Alaska ;) Current season.
I don’t know how you stand it… It got down to 43° here for 2 nights in a row a couple days ago, and all but the ‘inside’ flashlights fell idle. - BRRRR!
No way that I’m going out in That!
Take Care my friend, and yes - RMM will treat you right - All the Time!
Maybe the Nichias don’t like the low current at all. 0,35/3 maybe is too low of a current. I might be very wrong with this, but have you tried stacking one or two 7135 on the existing one?
EDIT: OK, re-reading your post, you tried with single XM-L2, too. Could be a faulty 7135.
Just got home from work and it’s already dark here and meteor was waiting on me… AWESOME!!! I have several high quality and high performance flashlights, but…DAMM!!! My biggest problem is figuring out the multiple ways to program the UI, but I know how to hit turbo and OMFG!!! Thank you so much for offering these Richard! The dogs are gonna go nuts on tonight’s walk!
Ha, those things are light grenades on turbo, right? The UI is not too bad, I left mine in UI 1 for a couple of weeks, then I figured out the programming for UI 3 and now have my levels all set.
If you want some fun, set it on turbo by holding the button for six seconds, then set it to tactical mode with 5 quick clicks and a hold WHILE in turbo… now you have an instant on to FULL turbo ( no ramp to it ) Bam! Knock a cat out of the tree bright, with the touch of a button.
Dont worry, the UI becomes more familiar with time….
Will you be selling the new Convoy L2 with the extension tube in the future? I have the updated L2 Simon recently released. Now concerning the Convoy L4. What would have to be done to it to make it a super thrower? Thanks.
I agree that blowing through a battery so quickly is pointless (plus the heat issues). I figure you would not design it for 10A, it would be designed for 3-4A, giving double an XP-L output out of our common sized lights
