I just got mine delivered today… the quality of the light was actually unexpected.
Had a quick test with the batteries provided, so far it seemed crazy bright, cant wait for the night time test with charged batteries 
Thanks again Richard
Told you that you'd like it!
STOP IT!!!
I can’t stand any more 
I’m retired and so only get paid once a month, and I have been a Very Bad boy so far this month, and my month is only One Day old 
Banggood, Gearbest, eBay, RMM…
Maybe Richard could Blacklist me?
-Chuck
Any idea as to when there might be more of the XinTD C8 lights back in stock?
Start hanging out in the purchase refusal / flashaholic support thread!
Yeah - But those guys are sick.
J)
-Chuck
Your doing it wrong
All of the money needs to go to our addictions 8)
Once I thought I lost my addiction to flashlights but then I bought another flashlight......and another.........and another......and another.
Well, it’s been two days since I got paid this time and I have only bought four lights.
That’s not too bad is it :quest:
jhalb - You sound alright to me!
0:)
-Chuck
Got enough testers for this go around! Thanks.
Hey guys,
I need two testers to give the 20mm MTN-MAX a go. I am going to do some more PCB updates, but before that I think I've got it working and need it to be torture tested. I don't have the time right now to do it thoroughly, so I am looking for some volunteers.
Conditions:
- You must install the driver into a light within 7 days of receipt.
- The light and LED must be capable of ~5A continuous output for at least 180 seconds.
- 3V LED is preferred. Input can be 2S or 3S.
- If the driver nukes one of your LEDs I will replace it. Drivers will be tested before shipment, but since it is a driver that has had some issues before there could be some issues.
- US only on this one. Int'l shipping cost has gotten even more expensive and I'd rather it get there sooner than later.
- You get to keep the driver, either blown up or working!
Send me a PM if you're interested. The first two eligible PMs will get the test drivers.
Thanks,
Richard
Hi! Yes, I think that I will actually have some next week. I didn't think they'd make it out before the Chinese New Year but it looks like they did! 
Thanks Richard for my M6 that got to me today. I have to say its one crazy light
Didnt think it will be that heavy and im little mad that i went with mod 1 and not mod 2
Anyway im really happy with it so thanks again
Rob
two questions about Supfire M6:
1. The tripod mount: does the stainless steel part of that screw out to leave a larger threaded hole in the aluminum? It looks like it does.
2. The tailcap looks like a Courui D01. Has anyone tried adding a clicky switch like we sometimes do with the D01?
Just let me know when to pull the trigger Richard, thanks again for all the hard work.
1. Yes.
2. I have no idea. There is not enough drain to be worth the trouble IMO.
If your M6 tail cap is not glued, modding the tail section with a mechanical clicky should be doable. There is a fairly wide trace that runs a square pattern around the board, this has the springs soldered to it via a pin from the spring running through the board and there are 4 screws affixing it to the body which grounds it. The 4 screw grounds would have to be separated from the spring pads, enabling separation for the switch, should be able to use some 18 ga wire and make it work, or copper plate. Might just do that to mine to prevent accidental on when in a jacket pocket, that’s the one thing I really dislike about an e-switch.
Agreed, that’s why I did it to my Courui. With the Courui the PCB happens to be the perfect distance from the metal cap and even looks like it was originally designed for a switch. I wonder if the spacing on the M6 is just as perfect…
The spacing is fine, but the pcb isn’t set up for such an easy switch addition. I cut trace out of the square on both sides of the spring pin then wired it all up with 18 ga Turnigy. Used a large Omten switch. Used the lathe to cut the circle out of the tail cap for the boot. The switch sits almost perfect flush with the top of the battery tube with the active button protruding. Boot clamps down firmly against the big switch when the cap is screwed on. Looks and feels like it was supposed to be there all along.
Thanks for bringing this up again, I’d totally forgotten about it and the M6 was always left battery tube loose to break connection. This is SO much easier!
Being as how I did it on both of my Courui’s a long time ago, I don’t know why this one wasn’t already done.
4588.5 lumens with the 4 button top LG HE-4’s rested at 4.13V.
Edit: 4792.05 lumens with the cells charged.
Nice. I assume it still tailstands fine?
Yep, tail stands same as before…. the boot is pretty much at the surface of the “star” pattern on the tail cap. You can’t feel any engagement with the boot when you set it down, no wobbly, no indication it’s there at all.
I used a black boot that had no nipple inside. Probably out of an Olight M2X-UT Javelot.