Me to and sometimes thats not enoough. 
Hi Richard. Id like to order a few H17F drivers. Does the spring option have a bypass wire. Or is that an option? Is the brass button good for current? Can you sell any convoy s2 switches with a bypass added?
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Is this the place where i solder positive e-switch wire?
Oh boy, depends on the driver/firmware but usually we got to pin #2 of the MCU, sometimes pin #3. I’d buzz out that contact to the MCU pin it’s connected to, then find out what pin the firmware is supporting the e-switch on.
Edit: Ahh look’n more closely, the OTC cap is on pin #2, and that pad you are pointing at is connected to pin #3.
Richard specifically says this on the product page for the e-switch firmware:
One side of the switch is soldered to ground, the other to the pre-tinned switch pad on the driver (connected to pin 2).
So, normally that would be right where that OTC cap is…. The pic you have is a MtnE canned pic, not a pic of the driver you received, so does yours have a populated OTC cap?
Solder the switch wires directly to the OTC. I leave the OTC on there now, even for momentary drivers because it is easier for people to solder to without ripping pads off the driver. 
My driver looks the same as above on the pic
You both answered my question
Now its time to stick it in big head
Thank You both for help
Funny you should say that - a few mins ago that just happened to me with your driver in an UltraFire UF-T18 - pad pulled right off. Haven’t ripped off a pad in a long time - years ago it happened with the old KD V2 drivers, and more common with using Teflon coated wires. The UF-T18 has rather stiff wires hanging off the switch. I’ll be hooking up the switch LED now as well on pin #3 because the new version of Narsil supports it now, as both a Locator LED and Low voltage indicator. It can be configured as you like through the UI.
Here's the UF-T18:
RMM, can you tell me if the Nanjg 101-AK-A1 driver has a single 100% mode option or would it need to be flashed? I need a driver to power a red XP-E2 at around 2A. Thanks.
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_116&product_id=241
No answers to my H17F questions? Can it be set up with an e switch?
Gunga, the brass button is ideal for higher current draw, equal to or better than a wire bypassed spring.
Pretty sure Richard can do the spring bypass on the switch for you, up to him and his time schedule if/when he can of course.
Thanks Dale! I will do them eventually but no time or space right now.
No, no bypass (not enough room with a qlite spring without getting tricky!) The brass button is the best for current. I don't have any complete switches right now, so no.
I don't think so, or at least there is no documentation that shows that it can.
No, there is no 100% only with the default firmware. With any 7135 based driver you can always bridge Pin 8 to Pin 6 (the usual PWM pin) and get 100% only, but then you will have no low voltage protection.
I used my first XM-L2 U4 1A this afternoon. It’s on a 20mm Noctigon, I used 20ga leads from a MTN FET driver in a Lucky Sun D80. I put the brass button from the OEM driver on the MTN. De-domed it, with a fresh off the charger 35A it does 5.23A for 1500.75 lumens.
Sweet. Wanna dedome that XP-L V6 and put it in there for comparison purposes? Domed it is only doing ~250 lumens more, but I suspect that dedomed it will be about equal.
This sounds little low, maybe? Was expecting more at 5.23A. My D80 w/U4 1C, v044 wight driver, SIR800DP, 22 AWG wires, SAM 30Q @4.21v: 5.36A tail on a clamp meter, does 1744 lumens @30 secs. Also I opened up the hole in the stock D80 LED centering piece.
Hey Tom, did you notice the de-domed part of Dale’s equation? Just wondering
Wow! Somebody mark that down. I was accused of having low numbers!
It is saved! I never thought you'd get accused of that!