Right now I am not planning on selling them modified, but will have a driver for them and am giving away one modded light. That may change in the future, but for now it will be DIY only.
If you order the parts, I’ll build you one for free. You’ll need:
1 Eagle Eye X6 Host
1 Copper or Aluminum Heat Sink for an X6 Host
3 Nichia, XP-L, or XP-G2 leds on a Noctigon XP32 Board
1 Ledil Cute Triple LED Lens
I’ll even supply a BLF A6 fet+1 driver.
Yeah, you are probably right! I should have just bought one or more.
I really appreciate the offer but I couldn’t have you build it for free! Not to mention, the parts are as hard to find at Mrn as the flashlights. I don’t know where I would get the same host.
X6 Host
Ledil Triple Optic
Noctigon XP32
3 Nichia, XP-L, or XP-G2 LEDs from mtnelectronics
Copper or Aluminum Heatsink
Fet+1 Driver with Toykeeper’s FW from me for free
I don’t mind building it for free one bit.
I can only find the Ledil Triple Optic by searching. I wonder what else they have hidden…
EDIT— Does this build require a spacer ?
Yep, I bought two from nitro a while back, don’t know if he’s selling them anymore or not.
AMAZING OFFER! What a guy!
That is a very generous offer! Do you have one of these lights? Maybe I could buy the parts for two lights and you could build one for yourself as well?
You guys are awesome! I see a lot of generosity on this forum, and it is one of the things that has kept me here.
When I was very first getting started playing with lights, in school and without any money, I tried to put a DRY driver in a Trustfire 3T6. I didn't quite know how the reflector came off and ended up forcefully dedoming the emitters. Tom E. helped me out and sent me some replacement XM-Ls for just the cost of shipping; at that time, an XM-L was still a $6+ LED, so it was very generous of him. He probably doesn't remember that, but it was a big deal to me at the time.
I’ve built a couple, traded one and used one for my one year anniversary giveaway a couple of weeks ago. I just enjoy building them, it’s by far my favorite host.
Well, if you are not interested in one of these lights for yourself, just let me know what you would want in compensation for your efforts.
You too DJ? I’ve built like 30, have 11 13 14 here of my own, love the X6. I have a full solid Copper X6, Titanium X6 with 11 trit vials, and variants sporting MT-G2, SBT-70, Triple XP-L V6 3D, Quad Nichia 219C, Nichia NVSU333A UV emitter, the most powerful single emitter made in UV. (to my knowledge) That one took a letterhead and signed releases, not to mention a Bill and change for the bare emitter, which is in the solid copper light. I even chopped an X6 Triple for single 18350 cell use. 
edit: my memory is atrocious, I chopped an X5, used a shorty tube for the X6.
I can make the spacer for you for Brett’s light if you wish. Copper or Aluminum, however you desire.
Question: When placing an order for Supfire M6 Mod 2, do I have to wait for one to be made/assembled or when they are “in stock” they are ready to ship?
That would be great!! Copper all the way.
I tell ya what, all I want for compensation is for you to review the light after you receive it and post the review here.
Disambiguation: any reference in comments above to “Hank” as a flashlight supplier is to Hank Wang, who isn’t me.
Any reference to userid “hank” — an old guy with lousy soldering technique — that would be me.
Hank Wang had the misfortune to join BLF a month after I’d signed up.
(I offered him the userid long ago, never heard back, so I’ve kept “hank”)
I try to disambiguate every now and then since I’m stuck with being me, and he’s not)
> fried amber
Yes, it’s my problem — I’ve killed a couple of amber emitters on Noctigons while trying to get solder to stick the wires onto the boards.
No special trick to it, just shaky hands, poor temperature control, probably poor choice of solder and flux, chasing a learning curve.
Had to ask here to figure out that’s what I was doing. Only killed amber XPE2s on Noctigons, don’t know if they’re more sensitive or just luck of the draw.
I think the efficiency with which Noctigons transfer heat from edge to center works against me.
I’ve been using a cheap “Hakko” temp-controlled iron (HobbyKing, looks like this one) but not real good about picking the right temperature or tips.
I just got clean new tips and will be a bit smarter about using a little wedge not a little pointy tip, and more flux, and pre-‘tinning’ the board then letting it cool completely.
Then getting the tip hot enough to stick the wire in place and get the heat away from the board right away.
I’ve just been annoying the poor thing too long poking at it til it dies by overheating the entire board — though it still puzzles me that the LED remains properly soldered to the Noctigon
after I cooked it, but the bond wire is clearly off — maybe the problem that only happens after _re_heating the emitter, but doesn’t happen when the emitter is first mounted to the Noctigon.
Anyhow, I just bought a soldering iron temperature calibration gadget so I will have a better idea what I’m doing.
DJ, I have an X6 here that I can use to cut the heat sink to, then send it along with the sink, hole bored through the emitter shelf and all. You DO use a center hole for emitter wires, don’t you?
Yes sir, I sure do.
I just sent EE a message on Ali Express about setting up a group buy for EE X6 hosts. I’m in for at least 10 if they’ll set one up.