MTN Electronics: LEDs - Batteries - Lights - Chargers - Hosts - Drivers - Components - 1-Stop-US Source

I think that Hank is spot on with the ~40kcd number. I measured my sample D1 at ~44kcd w/ a VTC5, so that's definitely in the range.

Hi Richard, I haven’t forgotten your offer to reflash my original D4 heads from day one orders, and yes after your last reply to me via email around 8-22 I got another email at the same moment about a intestate estate I’ve been carrying for 3 yrs now so had to jump on that situation and had to put the heads on low priority for a minute, or well more like weeks now I guess, I’m sorry .

I will get them out this week and for return shipping I’ll buy something from your store and have a note to your store order process about holding the purchase until heads are ready to ship back with new stuff and as I’ve mentioned to you before there is absolutely NO rush on these, a month or 6 months is fine with me, these are version ones, saw your message here about 8-18 asking that question and the ones I’m sending only blink when the light ramps up to max, where as the new one I bought following TK tweaks it blinks in the middle and I think right at max or just below.

I did notice maybe another glitch of sorts, the TM Toggling switch, you 10 click the light to my recollection to toggle the TM and it will blink 4 & 5, but the glitch is that it blinks the same pattern for on or off, one set might or should be perhaps 4&4 for On then 4&5 for off, maybe.?
It’s very easy to tell what it’s set at on or off because the head heats up so fast, you’ll see it stepping down rather quickly so that’s how I am able to tell.

With the upcoming D1, will the shorty tubes from D4 be interchangeable.? Nice light,

Thank you for all you help Richard, remember when these heads get there they are LOW priority, NO hurray and I’ll buy stuff for the return shipping and make notes so your not trying to figure out what knucklehead sent you a bunch of D4 heads with no note attached,

Somewhat disappointed there’s no V3 bin. But I may swap it anyway…

Hey Richard, got any interest/ideas toward deep carry clips for the D4?
The kind that have a ring around the tailcap/head threads, ideally.

(Some discussion in TK’s review thread)
The current Solarforce tail clip could be reamed/ground/scraped out slightly to fit. Or threads cut in it?

Also as someone asked earlier, any chance of buying spare tailcaps to drill and attach a lanyard ring?

Of all the flashlights one wouldn’t want to drop — and that can surprise one enough to drop them … the D4 is right up there at risk.

Something more specific than the thread might be useful… it has somehow become one of the longest threads on BLF.

However, D4-compatible clips would be awesome. The Convoy clip fits but isn’t a great fit. Some with potential were found on taobao, IIRC, and maybe a Nitecore clip might fit, and some ring-in clips can fit after some dremeling, and … meh. Maybe Hank will make an official clip someday. For now though, it’d be awesome to have some sort of clips available for the 18650 and 18350 flavors of the D4/D1.

Something like the Olight S-series clip sounds nice, but for now I’ve got a modded Solarforce L2 clip ringed in.

Regarding the clips---on my end, I'm not really interested in having to modify hundreds or thousands of inexpensive clips, so it has to be a "ready-to-run" solution, whatever it is. I wonder if Hank couldn't source something to sell with the lights? It seems like it would be a no brainer, but maybe it doesn't make economic sense.

I also do not know about spare tailcaps. I am not sure if they are having them manufactured in matched sets (likely) and how much more it would cost to get extra tailcaps manufactured with lanyard holes in them (I am not interested in drilling/machining them myself).


T18: You can't toggle the thermal management off in the new firmware, so it is much safer.

Yes, the D1 and D4 tubes are identical.

Yes I did notice that TM toggle capability is gone now on the new D4, with all the UI fixes this light is complete now, really do like it a lot and very excited waiting to get this D1 as well, sometime this month perhaps…??
Great news re: tubes from D4 to D1, that light will be another winner for Hank, sure glad to see him come out with some new products. Thanks again

Hi Richard is there a problem the mountain electronics international site have been trying to order some stuff every time I go to check out it tells me to I need to go to the international store when I'm already there?

Where are you from Modestep?

Got the 30mm FET+7135 Driver - 2S Momentary - Convoy L6 with D4 V2 firmware installed along with a lighted E-SW pad.
OOOOH it’s Sweet!!
10.1A after 30sec and all mode options working well so far.
Thank you Sir.

So what does this D4V2 firmware do with the tail cap? Just On/Off Lock out?

I'm in Australia got an email last night saying it was sorted there was an error on the shipping side of the site

Yes. On and off is also controlled by the side switch, so the rear switch is mainly just for lock out.

With the lighted E-SW I immediately know if it locked or not. If locked the E-SW lights are out, hit tail, and you will get the double flash to indicate standby and E-SW light are lit.

I am wondering about also lighting up the tail SW. I don’t have a 20mm board to try. I do not think it should need a resistor on the driver as the tail only lights.

Yeah dig the lighted switch for power on. How about one with battery check. :wink:

I was just wondering if the new firmware had any use for the tail cap switch. Like the LD-2, but it’s not made anymore.


First you would need a driver that can output a batt check function to the leds. Do you know of one?

I would think the Narsil/D4 batt check would be more accurate than led colors.


Think I spoke too soon on all is well…
The long press on to moon is too dim, not completely illuminating the 4 dies. Not sure why.

I know in Narsil you can increase and decrease the brightness of the moon level. Maybe there is something similar in the D4 firmware settings?

Nothing “wrong”, per se.

Same happens with showerhead lights that have dozens of parallelled LEDs. The “knee” where they start to conduct is off by only mV, so the ones with the lowest Vf hog most of the miniscule current, whereas those with slightly higher Vfs get almost nothing, so it’ll look as if only half or so are “on” and the rest are “off” or at least significantly dimmer.

At higher currents, the slope is closer to a straight line (I vs V), and not a sharp “knee”, so the difference in current vs Vf differences is much less (a few % or so?), so would be visually imperceptible. But at that knee, the difference in current for those with the lowest Vf can be a few times the current of the others… very visible.