I’m really liking the 502B with XML-2 7C tint at 3A. Not overpoweringly bright but reminiscent of incan without the artifacts of a bulb/reflector.
I managed to solder the 56 ohm resistors into the empty banks on all three channels. :party:
Is it normal that one bank has a bridge to another electric component?
And where do I solder the silicone wire leads of the 105C master board?
Have you tried just shoving the light up against a board (between the crenelations of the bezel) and twisting?
Newly received black finish SRK with 5 modes as received using a outer light head board marked JB-A on the battery contact side.
I marked the outside diameter of the bezel on a piece of hard wood and then used a narrow wood chisel to make cutouts in the wood for the three bezel crenelations to fit into. Stuck the light face down on the wood with the prongs in the three cutouts and twisted the light. The bezel came loose without any problem as it was not glued. The bezel protrudes beyond the light body by so little that I thought it would be very difficult to try and use a strap wrench on it. My strap wrenches are a lot wider than the bezel.
This technique should work for almost any flashlight that has a crenelated bezel that is not Loctited in position. I would expect that few are glued as the lens should be considered a breakable and replaceable item IMO. I used another tool to loosen the smooth fronted bezel on a Nitecore SR7 for which I have a deep crenelated replacement bezel coming.
I use silicone gloves to get those stubborn (and often sharp!) bezels loose.
I pulled 10 amps (bench) at 3.36 vF to get a feel for what a 11 amp driver can do. We should have ordered gloves. I don’t think my Xml-2 are balanced, one side is 1.2 meg higher than the other pair.
I have the light apart now so did the springs and will do heavier wire tomorrow. 9-12 amps on the SRK may be a bit impractical without water cooling?
I figured there was a reason for Richard putting such a short time-out on the Turbo/max mode for his modified SRKs and M6s. He does not want lawsuits from barbequed customers. 
After all I did read somewhere that he is studying to be a lawyer.
The Mod 2 SRK and M6 are around 20A with fresh 20R cells.
I ordered the SRK Driver FW: SRK Special, with auto fire department mode.
When! Rich passes the bar he had better have some elves to leave the business to?
Edit: bad choice of words!
WHEN he passes the bar, his family will run the business. His 3 yr old (by then) will be soldering drivers. 
Oh, wow. I feel dumb now. 
I tried removing it with my hands, and with a piece of leather between my skin and the sharp bezel, and had no luck. Then I posted about the strap wrench.
In the end, I didn’t even need a board or any cut-outs for the crenelations. It was as simple as pushing the bezel down against carpet and turning. Very easy to do, and very obvious in hindsight.
excellent! I recall a tip, putting the bezel against the bottom of a tennis shoe, and turning. Voila!
It’s not “high”, it’s turbo.
Seriously, I almost never use the really bright modes for more than a few seconds. But it’s awfully nice to have during those few seconds when I need it. And the “SRK Special” firmware sounds like it’ll provide a nice range of modes from very low to very high, thus making the light immensely more useful than it was with the stock driver. It runs too hot and too bright at 2000 lumens, and the other mode (~200 lumens with ~150 Hz PWM) is just … not so great.
I’m still trying to decide what I want to do with the emitters though. Maximum lumens? Maximum throw? Balanced lumens and neutral tint? Best tint with no regard for lumens? Any multi-emitter light is an opportunity to do a wide-spectrum light, which provides really nice vivid color without sacrificing anywhere near as much output as if I were to use high-CRI emitters. But it’s also kind of nice to just have a simple photon grenade designed to be as blindingly bright as possible. Or, I hear it could do ~120 kcd of throw if I decide to go that way.
Or, with any of the above options, since it has an e-switch and the driver is so easy to get out, it could be a nice host for writing/testing attiny13a firmware.
Don’t mind me. I’m just excited about a project and thinking out loud.
Finally a decent SRK driver. I have been waiting for this big time. I’ll be ordering super quick! Anyone off the top of their head know what noctigons the SRK takes- diameter wise?
Might be tough to set it up with 20.
[quote=Striker]
[quote=Striker]
I don't remember if I pre-soldered wires to your board, or not. I think I did, if I didn't, let me know and I will send a picture.
You should end up with four wires coming from the 105C board:
1. BATT+, solder this to one of the empty pads next to the LED+ wires. I usually use the pad marked "U2", but any will do.
2. GROUND, solder this one to the pad marked "GND" on the board.
3. PWM (the wire connected to the small pad where a 7135 normally is), solder to the pad marked "P".
4. One of the electronic switch wires should be attached to "SW-" NOT "SW+" on the board, the other should be soldered to Star 3 (counting from the left) on the 105C.
Thank you very much !
Now I have a perfect M6 
Due to my own incompetence a wire got caught between driver and body. So the springs were squished together and I had to pull them out with a pair of pliers (don’t know the correct word)
But now everything works fine.
Yes, you have to be very careful not to pinch the wires when you are replacing the driver.
Yes, agree, turbo is nice and have absolutely no problems with it. LOL, with the 20 amp option you might have to add recoil pad? Yep, the old driver left me wondering how to bump it up from 5 amps.
I’m looking forward to see how this driver turns out same as you bro. I may have to separate board into 2 groups due to one side pulling harder. One LED is slightly dimmer than the others in fire fly mode with bench supply. Or, just learn how to reflow the LED:)
Anyone done any sphere measurements of the full modified M6 light or want to give a current based OTF lumens guesstimate based on LED manufacturers data and standard losses from LED Lumens to OTF Lumens? I ordered the cool white LEDs, U2 1A.