yeah
that's why i removed them...
planning to get m6 and m8 by next month.... hehehhe
I like the look of the M6
had some more goodies turn up for the solarforce torch bodies a holster and another Ultrafire Cree T6 3-Mode Memory LED Drop-in Module
this drop-in draws 1.6 amps on my old trustfire flame batteries im looking forward to trying out some other batteries ive ordered as soon as they get here
Another order arived from solarforce this one took 9 days to get to Australia, L2P some batteries a B3 bezel and a S1 switch.
Im realy happy with the L2P very nice, well made imo the batteries seam nice too, im charging now the IR is realy low so thats good they should perform well i will do a mAh test on them and post my resuslts.
One thing that bug,s me is the S1 switch it is not a match in finsh for the old style L2 i ordered it for it is the same finish and the L2P i just got, i will no longer order individual parts from solarforce just complete host's.
Tail Cap Current Draw Comparisons Of My P60Drop-in
solarforce 2400 mAh (A) 1.67 amps
solarforce 2400 mAh (B) 1.67 amps
Ultrafire (grey) 2400 mAh (A) 1.23 amps (from buyincoins they only take 900 mAh)
Ultrafire (grey) 2400 mAh (B) 0.7 amps (from buyincoins they only take 900 mAh)
Trustfire Flames 2400 mAh (A) 1.51 amps
Trustfire Flames 2400 mAh (B) 1.50 amps
Redilast 2600 mAh (A) 1.70 amps
Redilast 2600 mAh (B) 1.71 amps
Hi-max 2600 mAh (A) 1.44 amps
Hi-max 2600 mAh (B) 1.45 amps
Panasonic NCR18650A (A) 1.69 amps
Panasonic NCR18650A (A) 1.72 amps
This is for comparison only generaly cells that have the lower internal resistance have the highest current draw. But bad cells can also read high due to high internal resistance and or bad voltage drop ive found.
That sucks, I thought these UF drop-ins from MF were supposed to draw 2.9-3 A? I'm awaiting the same L2P and UF drop-in combo. Hopefully mine draws close to 3A. Is there any chance your measuring cables is restricting the readings?
i used two DMM,s a fluke and a cheapie to do the current draws
Hmmm, which model Fluke did you use? Does it have 14 AWG wires?
Read from post #44 onwards here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/1108
Interested in your findings!
My fluke is not a new model its been around, but it was check out about 2 years ago at my old mans work and was spot on, my old man has one of the latest ones and mine read,s the same as his we did a DMM comparison a while back when we did some range testing my cheap read,s the same as the flukes every thing read,s with in 0.01.
Im not to keen to mod the leads on the fluke and since my old style fluke reads the same as my old mans new fluke and my cheap reads the same as both flukes so im not going to mod the leads on that either, but i guess all the DMM,s could be under reading.
I have brought another Ultrafire Cree T6 3-Mode Memory LED Drop-in Module (4.2V max) since doing the current draw test as it not a bother to me, they are a great 3 mode i really like they dont have flashy modes and the tint is great in my opinion and they are bright.
At 1.5 amps they get hot at 3 amps i think they would get way to hot to use for any lenght of time and the run time would be short, the best way to test them out would be a light meter that will tell if the DMM,s are lieing or not.
My light meter turned up in the mail today Premium Digital Light Meter (200000 Lux) i need some time to play around with it, i dont feel the drop-ins are putting out 900 + lumens more like 600 OFT but i guess the light meter will give me some intercation either way.
Yeah, the light meter may be a better measure. Now we just need to find other light readings on the web from people who's drop-ins draw 3A's.
I've also read somewhere that someone built a custom XM-L T6 drop-in which runs under 2A on high in the L2P and that he built it specifically like that because then the body didn't get hot. Well, not that quick. So if you L2P gets really hot in 5mins time, maybe it is pulling 3A's 
there is not much to draw heat away from the drop-in the base the driver and led sit on are only tinny.
yeah, that's why I remove them.
Benckie, have you taken some lux measurements yet?
No not yet, ive been so dam bussy this week, i did try and find some lux readings to compare mine to with no luck
I gave one of my L2,s and a stainless steel flate bezel with a UF 3-mode XM-L drop-in to a family friend who is working sercity at a gate house for BHP and she love it and every one is asking her where to get them.
I brought one of these for my other L2 a Taiwan 3W 380nm UV Flashlight Drop-in Module (4.2V Max) it works well and does pick up bodily fluid, i did not try it on money as our Australian notes are plastic, the uv drop-in works well good for a laugh i give it the thumbs up a must for hotel rooms lols.
I had these turn up the other day
I plan to run one of these in it UF 3-mode XM-L drop-in
My solarforce collection sofar
Bottom old style L2 with stainless steel flat bezel powered by a Taiwan 3W 380nm UV Flashlight Drop-in Module (4.2V Max)
Left tail standing L2P with B3 bezel powered by a UF 3-mode XM-L drop-in with a orange peal (OP) refector my EDC for work.
Right L2X soon to be powered by a UF 3-mode XM-L drop-in
In old4570's first post here https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/1108 he mentioned 13000 lux at 1m
I thought there all where light box readings but i can do a lux reading @ 1 meter, when i have time.
I really like my L2P with the B3 bezel, i use it 5 or 6 days a week while at work the anno is holding up and every one wants one till i tell them the price of the host, the drop in, a simple charger and a couple of batteries. I think the price is cheap but none torch freaks dont get it and i quess i already had batteries and a hobby charger.
So Lothar what did yours end up drawing ? i still have not got around to doing a lux test, i quess i should start resurching it and do one.
I brought and gave a few L2's to family and friends. I sold the rest of my solarforce lights and just kept the L2P with the B3 SS bezel as it was my favorite solarforce light.