Nanjg 105C - 20mm diameter mod

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
1

Nanjg 105C, not a bad driver, but, only available in 17mm size. Which is nice, for most lights that have 17mm driver space. The issues arises when a light has 20mm driver space.
Keygos M10 has 20mm driver and a brass ring to tighten the driver in.

One option is to solder the driver inside the ring, which is tricky and has to be done with the driver in the pill
Tried to have long cables and pre twist them, well lets say the Chinese PCB did not like the forces of the twisted cables and a positive contact got a little damaged, trace separated from the PCB.

I don’t like to solder it in there since every time I want to update something I would have to desolder and resolder. Nope.

20mm board and wiring it up, possible but too complicated.

So here we go:

1) Get 1.5-1.6mm copper wire, I used 1.6mm.
If you have thicker one I suggest to file down one side and put that flat side toward the driver/center.

2) Take a 18650 battery and wind the wire around it to form a loop. Or something else close to 17mm diameter.

3) Test fit on the driver and adjust size to be as round and as tight as possible. Cut the wire to length, I cut a little more to make a tiny space when on the driver. This allows to make a loop that is slightly smaller than 17mm and fit and holds on the driver by itself, a snug fit.

4) Soldering it takes some time and patience. Do not heat the wire too much or the solder will flow to the lowest point. That’s what it did for me. The smaller the space between driver and wire the better. Use quick and high heat and dab the solder on there on several places, I think 3 places on each side are enough. Obviously I went nuts and once I figured how to make the solder stick and not flow I soldered it all around and also closed the loop with solder, except around the positive, didn't want to solder it to the negative and then have to remove the solder. Spread the heat on opposite sides while soldering, wait or cool it so you don't heat up the wire too much otherwise the solder will flow.

5) File the diameter down if you used a bigger wire than what fits your light's driver space. You will likely have excess height of solder, especially if you go overboard, file the excess down, or leave it if you don't mind it. I filed one side and on the other I just took a dremel with a sandpaper bit

Voila, 20mm Nanjg 105C or any other driver converted to a bigger diameter as long as the contacts are ok, obviously the wire serves as an extended negative contact on Nanjg 105C.

Rock solid, perfect contact with a nice fit to the pill.

Does 3.5-3.6A. nlite firmware, soldered 2nd and 4th star later.

2

Nice job! I’ve seen people suggest this, but I’ve never seen a pic of it.

3

When can I send you some drivers ? Well done

4

i have one keygos m10 made with one nanjg8 3.05 amp 4groups

here buy the part 20mmto 17 mm 6 days shipping!

http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/LED-Flashlight-Driver-Copper-Adapter-Ring-17mm-To-20mm-/130992009627?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e7fbb719b

greets

5

Very cool! I did something similar with my first Trustfire 3T6 mod, except I used solder wick (1.5mm) instead of copper wire to built up the outside diameter.

6

just bought 5 of these adapter from the same ebay seller but in English :smiley:

7

:)

20mm Partition Boards for AMC7135 LED


5 packs for 1,5 $

https://www.fasttech.com/p/1138202


8

I need one of these if fasttech or a non fleabay seller was selling this i would be all over it

I saw a pic of this used, the driver was soldered to the back side with the spring coming though the center, but i get the feeling over time the driver will break the solder and you will be in the dark until you get home to your soldering station

9

Hope there is 21mm version soon.

10

You mean like this:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Freeshipping-21mm-expansion-board-for-flashlight-driver-10-PACK/1072001760.html
or in expensive:
http://intl-outdoor.com/2-pcs-contact-pcb-21mm-p-409.html

:wink:

11

Ha, now I know what those boards are for :smiley:
But paying somebody $2 for 5 boards, hmm, plus it does increase the height which can be an issue for some pills.

Nice. Didn’t know they make those too. Guess ebay has more different things than the KD, DX, FT, …

Yeah You can use a copper solder wick as well, I have quite a bit of it but went with the wire. It may be easier to use the wick since it’s flat. Not sure how well it will hold on the driver until it’s soldered.

Let me try :wink:

A little pain to wind it, possible but has to be secured, held in place, and soldered, locked in soon. Did you wind it and solder it continuously or wind the whole thing and then solder it all? The wick may also suck a lot of solder.
But it should work, was my back up and may try it next time to use wick instead.

The adapter ring is nice, but pricey.

The wire holds on itself, it’s just a little tricky to solder since it will eat some heat when soldering it.

fasttech request

I guess most people wire up the secondary 20mm PCB?
How do you wire up the positive close enough?
What about other components on the driver boards that may short out with the secondary board? Would have to kapton tape it. Plus not all pills are very deep and every millimeter counts.

12

Or how about buying a copper 20mm pipe, and cut it to your liking;

EBAY

not sure the thickness of the copper.

13

20mm one has a hole for the spring to pass through. Hopefully a cheap $2-3 for 5 kind. Meanwhile, I will still order from IOS.

14

I’ve used the same method as the OP but I’ll add my spin on the subject.

I’ve used 16-18 ga bell wire [its the single strand conductor wire used for doorbell wiring, hence the name].

Like Jack I use a 18650 btty as an armature to wind several loops, then cut them into individual rings

To solder the driver into the pill; tin both the wire ring and the driver outer ring w/ solder, USE SOLDER FLUX

Once cooled put a small amount of flux on the tinned areas

Fit the wire ring into the pill

Press the driver onto the wire, I use forceps to keep fingers clear of the work

Tin the hot iron w/ a dab of solder then solder the driver at one point, this will anchor the work

Now repeat soldering at two more points

You don’t need to fill the whole driver/ring w/ solder, that could overheat components and make later removal very difficult.

Practice, practice, practice. Use a HOT iron w/ a med-small chisel tip and keep it clean.

15

Ouchyfoot shows in this thread, how he solder the fasttech boards and it looks stable:
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/11120?page=1#comment-367597

16

Sorry, one more: I bought these: aliexpress - 20mm-to-17mm 10pcs, $3.85, $39 cents each, and they are nice. I've used them and it worked out well.

Appreciate the inventiveness of what you did here, JackCY - your custom built one is great when you absolutely need minimum clearance and to match mounting height.

17

This is really quality but hard work JackCY did...

It is very demanding and needs file work and fitting which could last for hours + driver takes a lot of heat while doing this way.

I tried those 20mm boards from IO(without center hole) but those from FT are much simplified and adopted to nanjg 105 C driver (you are finished in not more than 10 minutes :) )

And Ouchyfoot described at this thread page 4:

18

I also usually use the 20mm boards from FT (and stock them on my site), but I applaud the workmanship here! Like I always say... this is BLF, after all! A place where we can make our own unique creations and share them with each other, even if they aren't perfect!

19

Nice, brass is fine, price good :slight_smile:
If one needs that many or needs them that often. And they don’t sell them anymore. Wallbuys has them but does not list count, so one for $3.63 or so… no thanks.

Although the inner diameter is 0.2mm too small for the Nanjgs I have. Would mean filing and filing anyway.

The minimal size comes in handy, I put in more cable so I can just unscrew it, take the driver and reprogram it, no need to solder the wires off from the MCPCB. The cables fit but it’s a squeeze on them, not forced though.

Not that much time if you don’t add way too much solder.
Just dab a few places, not solder it all, couldn’t stop myself :wink:
Using the solder wick may be easier.

20

At WB too, but I think out of stock ATM, says they have 4 but won't let me put any in my cart.

http://wallbuys.com/Product/copper-ring-for-17-mm-to-20-mm-circuit-7307