Sounds like good trouble shooting steps. I will do the multitester test when i get off work this afternoon.
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Hello you all,
Thank you for all the good inputs. I wish Wurkkos support is as proactive as you folks.
So for now, I will report back on the multitester test and Wurkkos response. If anyone of you can think of something else, do let me know. I kind of have fun doing these trouble shooting. When I get to the point of getting aggravated, I will call a charge back. 
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It might take them a day or 2 to respond but they will likely send you a replacement.
I dont think it will matter… Wurkkos has been very good about warranty claims from others who have had any issues.
fwiw, I do use Paypal, and the funding source is a Credit Card. So I enjoy an extra layer of protection… 
Your videos are excellent, they show you using the Wurkkos battery, and it clearly works with the Red body and tail, on Both the CuTi and the Red heads.
Please update with your successful resolution
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I had the same problem with my TiCu TS10. The head worked fine on other lights, so I assumed it was an issue with the tail. Wurkkos was very responsive via the message service on their site. I told them that I just needed a new body/tail, and they ended up sending a entire light because they didn’t have spare parts. It probably helped that I was placing another order, and they just dropped the replacement into that shipment. After receiving the replacement (which worked fine), I decided to dig into the issue with the original. After much effort, I was able to get the tailcap off, and clean up the glue. Now the original light works fine. I think it actually wasn’t screwed on tight enough, and the glue had locked it in place.
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Winner Winner, Chicken Dinner!
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At this point, everything is pointing to a bad switch or bad body/switch. If a replacement is needed, I guess I will short 1 item under my Christmas tree. 
To give Wurkkos some credit, I received my order in 6 days (from ordering to my door), from China to California with the regular free shipping.
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ok. multitester test result.
spring to inner tube, yes continuity.
spring to shell/threads, no continuity. press switch, yes.
I put the TiCu head in my Red tube, reprogramming the beacon to be flashing. Put the Ti body back on, beacon programming stays but switch still cannot turn on light. Then unscrew until beacon goes away, pressing switch causes light coming on with flashing/ramping only.
Additional tests.
there is continuity between tailcap and threads.
when tapping between inner tube and body/thread, no beep. press switch and it beeps. is the switch supposed to connect the inner tube to body on top of connecting between spring and inner tube?
Your tests show the microswitch in the tail is working correctly.
In a way, yes. In terms of power, the driver MCU should always be powered - bat pos to driver post, bat neg through tail, back up inner tube to ring around the driver.
Pressing the switch connects bat neg to the body, which connects to the head via the threads. Inside the driver cavity a screw goes through the shelf and into the driver, providing current when the switch is pressed. This current is interpreted as your button press inputs by the MCU.
So yes, you’d see continuity between the inner tube and the body when pressing the switch.
Does the inner tube have any back-and-forth play? I think it’s not connecting when you screw it in all the way.
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Specifically in regards to eggheads non functional Ti Body, I believe the failure is because the inner tube is not reaching the driver.
That is why I described how to tighten the tailcap, after first breaking the glue barrier…
This was the failure that containerfan posted about having repaired himself, in this post above. After he first got successful resolution from Wurkkos, for his non functional body and tail. (when first received)
This just sounds identical to the problems I had with battery length. My first couple of TS10s worked fine with button top H10 cells. I got a couple of newer ones, loaded them up with those cells and got just what @egghead is seeing. Including:
I used the Wurkkos cells and they were fine, as were the flat top H10s.
So my question is, could tolerance stack up have gotten a combination of inner tube and body lengths that cause problems with even the length of the stock Wurkkos cells?
It would explain why the TiCu head works fine with the red body and inner tube.
Obviously if this is the case, the light needs to be replaced…
Mine act exactly the same.
I think that makes sense, if the battery prevents the light from closing all the way, the switch can not connect the negative battery to the driver.
Request for Verification
can someone please help clarify which tube connects to the Aux and which tube connects the switch to the white LEDs?
atm I think the inner tube connects to the switch and turns on the white LEDs, and the outer tube connects to the Aux, and powers them as long as the head is tight.
do I have the role of the tubes correct, or backwards?
Aux is beside the point. Both the aux and main LEDs are output from the driver, not separated on the input side. This is fundamentally an eswitch light. The driver always needs power and the switch sends a signal to the driver telling it what to do.
With the TS10, the body carries the signal from the switch. The driver “listens” to the switch signal and performs whatever funtion the inputs (clicks, holds, etc) tell it to do. The inner tube is always giving the driver power and the switch does not affect this connection.
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I guess I am now at a lost. I did the multitester test on the Ti tube and posted the result earlier, which is consistent with what James C said should be.
So I went, hmmm. Let me do the same to the Red tube to see what a working tube shows.
- Spring to inner tube. tone.
- Spring to thread or body. no tone pressing switch or not.
- Inner tube to body or thread. no tone, pressing switch or not.
My logic tells me that when I press the switch, I am supposed to get a tone in some connections but no. Then how does this working tube turn on the light?
If this is the case, without tightening the head so the inner tube contacts the pill, the light (aux or led) is not even supposed to light up, regardless of switch pressing? (but my Ti tube does, see 2nd or 3rd video).
In my 2nd or 3rd video, when the switch causes the light to somehow lighting up with the head partially screwed in, the electricity must by passing thru the shell, not the inner tube. That means I have a short somewhere when the switch is pressed?
So battery to spring to inner body to pill is always on? Then the switch sends “some kind of signal” to control the light? This signal is maybe some kind of pulse that does not cause connectivity?
My other test with the working Red tube. I only get tone between spring and inner tube, always on, and no tone for spring/body and inner/body, switch press or not. Does that mean the “signal” that the switch is supposedly sending is some kind of pulse, and not necessarily connectivity?
fwiw your red body test does not match my aluminum body test, which does show conductivity when pressing the button… I think you may have had a testing error, but none of that really matters… If you want to fix the Ti light, do what containerfan did…
Disassemble the tailcap, remove the glue residue, and reassemble clean and tight.
Even if we do not know Why that worked to fix his Ti light’s problem, it Worked
my guesses as to why it works are
- maybe it pushes the inner tube forward so it sticks out more and makes better contact with the pill
or - Maybe the glue at the tailcap is blocking conductivity between the switch and the body.
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So Wurkkos got back to me and they are convinced by the 2nd video the problem is somewhere in the Ti body/switch. They are shipping me a new light.
I guess I will wait for the replacement to arrive to confirm I have a working light.
I am not going to take apart the tailcap until I confirm having a working replacement and that they are not asking for the bad one back (that they did not mention in the email).
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Congrats!
Wurkkos customer service has been outstanding!
I am not going to take apart the tailcap until I confirm having a working replacement and that they are not asking for the bad one back
totally respect your decision
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I offered to send the defect back at my cost if they had a US depot address. They said no need.
If I cannot fix the body/switch, at least I have an extra TiCu head for my Red.
Now come to think of it, is the tail switch an electronic switch that could have gotten killed? Does anyone know if it is electronic or just a mechanical clicky?
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