I received my TS10 Ti Copper with Anduril v2. Light is not working right and I sent a video to Wurkkos. You can see the video with the link below.
Reply from Wurkkos was my operation was wrong and they sent me a copy of the Anduril v2 manual without telling me what’s wrong with my operation. Can you guys look at the video and tell me what I did wrong?
Unscrew a little.
Maybe it has traces of copper inside the head that makes false contact?
Why?
there have been multiple reports of CuTi that need to have copper shavings cleaned out of the head
So I decided to take a 2nd video. This time, I swap the TiCu head with my Red ts10. When the TiCu in the Red body, everything seems to work but the Red in Ti body, I got the initial flash but the switch does nothing. Swapping the heads back and forth, the only conclusion I can draw is a bad switch in the Ti body. What do you think? Anything else I can try?
I did not see the kind of metal shavings as in that thread but when I wiped my finger across, it came off black and gray on my finger. I cleaned the threads in both the head and the body and the crazy flashing went away. However, I think I have a bad switch in the Ti body. See my 2nd video. I swapped the head with my red ts10. The TiCu head works in the red body and the Ti body switch won’t turn on the red head.
Excellent Video, I believe it will be very helpful for Wurkkos to see that, and I hope they will send you a new Ti Body with Tailswitch… sorry for your delayed gratification.
One last thing you could try… remove the battery from the CuTi light and do some repeated firm tightening, closing and loosening of the CuTi head against the Ti body. After attempting to seat the body firmly into the head, suggest you clean all contact surfaces thoroughly with alcohol.
Then reinstall the battery and test for function.
Please share whether the Tightening, Loosening, and ReCleaning of ends of body tubes and inside of the head was successful. Note I am asking you to test with Dry threads, before replacing any lubricant.
The goal of this exercise is to attempt to create a firm contact between the ends of the body tubes and the CuTi head.
I understand and can see that the switch is not working. imo the issue is the inner body tube is not making good contact with the Pill in the head of the light. I do not think it is actually the switch itself, but rather the inner body tube, that is not making good contact with the heads of both lights you tested.
But regardless of my guessDiagnosis, IF after that exercise the light still does not work, I would ask Wurkkos for warranty service.
ps, if you want to dive deeper into the tailswitch issue… try to tighten the tailcap further… to close the gap between the body and tailcap:
IF you use metal tools, be sure to protect the light with leather (not tape as the teeth on metal tools will cut right through the tape)…
A much safer tool would be Rubber Strap Wrenches… And, you may find that heat is required (boil some water, dip the tailcap into the hot water), for you to be able to unscrew and retighten the tailcap. IF you do manage to unscrew the tailcap, you will probably find large amounts of blue loctite, all of which should be cleaned off so you can get the tailcap to close down as tightly as your tools allow.
here is what a disassebled TS10 tail looks like, after cleaning off all the locktite:
The goal of this exercise is to force the inner body tube forward so it can reach the pill in the head for a more solid connection.
that was good suggestions but I have already done the tighten/loosen/cleaning. The 1 obvious thing is my red tube switch functions with both heads whereas the Ti tube switch will not work on either.
I tested turning the tailcap lightly but according to Wurkkos, the tailcap is glued. As is now, the tailcap is tightened and will not turn. I do not want to break the glue. If breaking the glue to tighten still does not work, Wurkkos is going to say I broke it. I just received the light 2 days ago.
You can see the Ti body is making contact with pill because after tightening head, I get the initial flash and then the beacon aux light comes on and stay. Then the switch does nothing. This applies to both the TiCu and Red head with the Ti tube. If it was the tailcap not making contact with the tube, why would I still get the initial flash and beacon light on?
I dont really understand the electronic reasons why the Ti body does not work, but I think I know how to fix it 
disassemble the tailcap, clean off all the glue, and reassemble clean and tight
Im not sure why that works, but it worked for containerfan
I dont think Wurkkos is going to ask you to mail the light back to China. If you can fix it yourself it would save them the expense of sending you a replacement.
If you have a multimeter it’s easy to check if your switch is working.
First, using continuity check, put one probe down the battery tube to the spring and the other on the end of the inner tube. This should always have continuity. This is the current path for operating the light.
Next, keep one probe on the spring and put the other on the threads of the body. There should only be continuity when the switch is pressed. The body carries the switch signal.
If those both check out then the tail/switch is working fine. There may still be issues with it all fitting together, though.
When you start screwing in the light, but not all the way, you should be able to get the LEDs to flicker by holding the switch (don’t do this for too long). If that works, then your switch circuit is fine.
If you still have problems, there is an issue with the main current path, i.e. inner tube and connection to the head.
I have not gotten a reply from Wurkkos after sending them the 2nd video. It is now the middle of the night over in China. I will give them a day or two more to respond. The last contacts with Wurkkos, the respond from them wasn’t very helpful. They just said I did something wrong without specifying and just me the Andurill 2 manual. I just hope I don’t have to do a charge back with my credit card.
So I just made an interesting discovery and made a 3rd video. When I put the heads on the Ti tube partially, the switch respond somehow and the light will come on flashing and ramping. Tighten the head and only beacon comes on, switch no response. Loosen head and switch will switch light on with flashing and ramping. Ti tube does the same with both heads. Thoughts?
If you used Paypal, when you start a dispute, they provide a contact email for the seller. you can use that contact before actually filing the dispute.
The email that Paypal provides you, gets high priority response, as sellers want to protect their access to Paypal…
I think you are being reasonable to wait a couple of days before initiating any dispute… but fwiw, when Customer Service seems inept, I stop talking to them.
And ultimately, yes, if you have not used Paypal, your credit card company will certainly be on your side and ultimately you will get a refund.
sorry for your aggravation… hope you get to the Happy Ending soon.
Just curious, have you tried swapping the battery from the red light into the copper light?
Are you using the Wurkkos cells in both.
I ask because I have had very similar problems when using cells that are too long.
Thanks for the helpful video. I think there’s an issue with the head. Do not ask for a new body, you need a new head (or better, a whole new light).
It looks like there’s a short in the head. Weird things can happen with shorts depending on what parts are shorted. I believe the MCU is getting power normally when the inner tube makes contact, but I think the switch signal is shorted in the head. When everything is screwed in fully the short causes the switch to be unresponsive (because the circuit is shorted closed). I think those aux are indicating the light is locked, which is normal A2 behavior for a stuck switch, but again you are unable to open the switch circuit due to the short.
Based on a few other reports I wouldn’t be surprised if there’s an errant metal shaving in the driver cavity.
yeah, now come to think of it, I should have used PP.
When testing and experimenting, I was taught to keep other variables constant. Yes, it is a Wurkkos cell I used to test in both lights (this is to prevent Wurkkos from blaming my battery). I have also used a Vapcel that works perfectly in the Red and results are the same (just for proof of theory) but I am not going there with Wurkkos.
I won’t ask for anything specific from Wurkkos. I will let them decide how to resolve. Given that said, both heads work on the Red tube and both heads won’t work with Ti tube. Therefore, what would be the reason to believe problem is in the TiCu head alone? Then I partially screwed in the head and the Ti switch lit up the light with flashing/ramping (3rd video), the inner tube is definitely not making contact. Then until I tightened the head (when the inner tube is supposed to have made contact - beacon light and initial flash), the switch then failed to turn on the light.
Thoughts?
Oh, sorry I didn’t watch all the videos. I saw part of the 3rd and jumped to conclusions. Can you test the ti body/tube with a multimeter as I described a few posts back?
