First thing, like AlexTG has said, you might want to try turning it in clockwise direction to open it.
If the above doesn’t work it means that it was very tight indeed. Clamp your tailcap with a table vise, put your tweezers into the hole at an angle and knock the tweezer with a hammer. This will loosen it very easily.
I see 6 full threads on the new pill. The C12 has that many but it’s also larger diameter. Unfortunately, it makes less contact than a cheap C8 because they are loose. The total contact area including the flange on both is less than that of a 20mm star so it creates a bottleneck.
I can’t imagine the Convoy having loose threads like the C12 but even if it did, with standard threads, the Convoy would have about 50% more contact than it does. It looks like the Convoy threads are deeper so they shouldn’t be very loose. Just not a good choice in thread type for a pill.
Hey guys, anyone find installing a driver on this new pills problematic?
ID of the retaining ring that holds the driver is too small so i scrapes edges of AMC chips.
Second even bigger problem is that, as you tighten the retaining ring when you come to the last turn or so it starts to pull/rotate the driver so if you have soldered the wires to the emitter on other side this can easily rip contact pads from driver where wires are soldered. Or if you did not attach the emitter but you used fairly short wires they will be pulled inside of the pill so that’s not a solution either
I either have to stop tightening retaining ring when it starts rotating driver or use long wires to allow them to braid inside of the pill.
Maybe old pill design had less contact surface but driver installation was 100% painless, light years beyond new design. :~
I am afraid this is the nature of retaining ring like this? At the last turn the retaining ring has exerted enough pressure on the driver hence it will “carry” the driver to spin along with it. You can press your thumb hardly on the driver during the last run to prevent it from spinning too much.
I’ve tried holding the driver with my thumb but it doesn’t work because spring is pretty smoot so it slips (I did not try to remove spring just to tighten the driver and then solder the spring back), I also tried using pliers, grabbing the AMC chip -> damaged poor regulators…
I got a C8 smo from fasttech some days ago, i wanted to mod it.
The improvements are great, especially the pill design. I can now solder wires without any problems touching the reflector.
BUT, the tailcap is a huge step forward. Dont tell me, there’s NO WAY those tiny switches can handle 1+ Amps better than the old ones, unless they are made from pure gold. I worked at least 3 hours to fit a standard remote switch in it. With the old version, it was maximum 5 minutes, and zero soldering,grinding, fitting
The feel of the clicky isn’t that great either.
So if you want to satisfy the users(at least me) please consider going back to the old tailcap design on the inner side.