I do not see it in the AliExpress shop and thought it would be less then $20.
So I hold off to see what the AliExpress price is going to be and well if a light can be bought more from the source and that does not mean a 5% or more higher price I prefer that anyway.
This strikes me as bad news. A new X6 Eagle Eye 26650 version is great! The 26650 won’t fit? I guess now I’m holding out for… maybe freeme just didn’t push real hard. The more I think about it, my Keeppowers will probably slip right in there. Supposed to ship out in 3 days, Yeah!!
It looks like an interesting replacement for my LuckySun 26650 Flashlight I use on my MTB.
Can anybody tell me the diameter and thickness of the front Glass because i want to use a wide angle Lens like this one:
I wouldn't call it X6 26650 version as there isn't much resemblance between both models. You are going to destroy the KP wrapper if you force it into the tube, unless you are referring to their IMR series. Do take note that there is not "tailcap" design for X6. Meaning, you can't push it from the other end if the battery is stuck in side.
I got one of these last week and overall it is pretty nice. Well made, good anodizing, threads (factory lubricated), reflector, solid SS bezel, etc. No surprises from Eagle Eye. Mine is a cool-tint XM-L2 model, to be used as a host eventually.
26650s are a snug fit (diameter), but there should not be any issue for unprotected cells.
The stock driver is very usable and for me the only reason to swap it out would be to get cell voltage level flash-out. Four modes, off-time memory, double-click strobe, iirc. Levels are something like 7 - 160 - 500 - 1000 lumens. About 20 kcd on high with the stock XM-L2. Slight outside ring in the beam pattern, probably the SS bezel.
Like freeme, I am not able to tell if the mcpcb is DTP.
My only one critic would be the thin-walled tail crown. It is almost sharp and looks ready to bend/chip. A compromise to fit the exterior type tail switch retaining ring? The generous finger cut-outs on the crown also compromise its tail-stand stability.
I have measured 26.47 tube ID, I suppose lots of cells can fit its tube. Even 2x26350, can anybody test?
Another thing I wonder, why did they made solid tube tail together with tail switch. Switch seems to be not replaceable, is it?
P.S. I have version with XP-L HI. If switch on low mode (moonlight? defenetly less than 0.12A) and light on smth very close (5cm=2in) I can see hole inside hotspot. WTF? Can not test better this moment but I think this is reflector fail which will present in other modes too.
Actually seeing a hole in the hot spot up close is a sign of a well made and properly focused reflector. So that is actually a good sign as long as the hole disappears by the time you pull back to ~1m.
A small reflector like that is simply too small to properly focus the beam and as such the hole will not be noticed.
A perfectly focused reflector would actually have a hole in the center as part of the beam regardless of distance. Reflectors are purposely “defocused” so that doesn’t happen (not to mention perfect doesn’t exist int he real world).
Reflector is same to the X6 one.
Tail structure is little different than I expected. Tail top (round plate outside rubber cover) is made from different piece of material than whole tube. I cant understand how it is hold, think holding is conneted with 5 holes (rivets?)
Vou a la! I did it! 5 holes are just made for uncsrewing this tail-plate. Switch is very simply replaceable.
P.S. Head internal is different to X6, so X6 spacers wont fit. X7 spacer design is in process. 32mm boards will fit without any sandings.
P.P.S. Again wondering why BLFers still can not organize lightened tailswitches with double springs production. It is cheap and simple part which is enormous hard to make in small quantities outside US. Most users dont have place to get springs and leds (even if boards can be produced almost everywhere).
You could do it, and I wouldn’t stop you in any way, but the reason I don’t pursue it and try to make a profit is because it is not a drop-in replacement for any switch. It takes a lot of fiddling to get them to work right. It is best if you make it yourself.
I buy 90% of my parts from China. They ship most places that I know of. The only US source for things like switches and springs is MtnElectronics, and he just buys them from China himself and re-sells them here.
A bit off-topic though, sorry. If you’d like to continue the discussion feel welcome to jump to the Illuminated tailcap thread linked in my signature.