FWIW, PWM makes the tint more consistent at different brightness levels, while current control like the Meteor tends to make tint change depending on the brightness.
In general, current control is usually better, more efficient, etc… but for tint purposes PWM usually works better. That is, assuming the LEDs are driven to an optimal level and then brightness is controlled via PWM. If the LED is under-driven or over-driven, the tint isn’t so good.
Well maybe I will say it again, using this LED does not create any sort of issue like annoying tint shift towards green or blue like with CREE LEDs. The shift is there but everything is nice, and I have nothing but good to say about it.
Yeah, the Nichia 219 high-CRI series is pretty awesome. It seems much less prone to tint shift than most Cree LEDs, and maintains better color rendition through its entire output range.
I was very tempted to get a 219 Meteor, but I went for XP-G2 S3 3D instead to get more lumens and throw. I have plenty of 219-based smaller lights (or a big wide-spectrum BST) for the times I want the best color rendition.
Had to laugh TK, the “big” BST is a small light. I was amazed at how small when I first got mine.
The Olight SR90 Intimidator, now THAT is a big light! 
(and with a 96 CRI XHP-70 and massive Lum 5-90 reflector, it’s got a gorgeous output and beam profile, used it last night, excellent light)
I don’t understand how the Nitecore TM-36 can be called a Tiny Monster, it’s pretty massive in it’s own right!
I guess the Meteor changes perception on big light/small light, making massive light output in smallish soup can form factor. 
Gotta love it when someone thinks outside the box! Again, well done Hank!
Edit: In relation to TK’s comment about understanding the curve on Li-ion cells, I don’t understand the liions curves, I just like listening to her roar!
My M43, with XP-L V3 2B emitters, a BLF FET driver and TK’s ramping firwmware
Perception is weird. And context. At home, a Skyray King looks pretty big and a TK75 looks huge. But when I see the same two lights at my parents’ house, the TK75 looks about medium-sized and the SRK looks small. Everything else there is bigger, so the two lights look smaller in comparison.
The camera really doesn’t seem to like that. With the exposure auto-adjusting, it looks like it ramps back down a bit after hitting the top.
BTW, I got ramping to work on a FET+7135, and am using that as the basis for modes and other adjustments on tiny25-based drivers. The ramp isn’t quite smooth at the point where it turns the FET on, but it’s at least pretty close. The tint shift is more apparent while ramping too.
Thanks for the video Dale! Nice ramping. How does it differ from the factory ramping feature in UI3?
For starters, Dale’s modded light has 64 ramp steps instead of 7. Very different UI for accessing those levels, too.
I wonder if 219C will be a future option?
mine does this with just the slightest tap, i’m afraid it’ll get worse to the point that just shaking the damn thing will cause it to happen.
also, if the light is stone cold, and i turn it on in turbo, it now does the “over-heated” double blink for no reason.
The double blink is to indicate low battery voltage, not because it has no charge but it cannot keep up with the 6A current draw. For overheating there is no warning, it just reduces the output. This happens even with 4x Panasonic 18650BD which are supposed to deliver constant 10A. I have some 30Qs on the way, they should perform better.
To check the light turning off with a tap issue you can disassemble the back copper plate, remove the screws and see if the spring are providing enough push to keep the batteries in contact. I have used this particular spring in many mods and I know that while it is stiff, it doesn’t recover too well after being completely flattened.
Edit: Just took mine apart and I’m sure that’s what causing you problems. With Panasonic BD button tops the spring compression travel is only 0.5mm, not enough to make a good contact.
When applying pressure over the copper pcb it barely travels! I can’t imagine it working properly with a shorter cell.
Space is 5mm and spring is only 5.5mm in height.
A more suitable spring would be this kind which offers lot more travel and pressure, but the drawback is that it doesn’t fully compress.
If you don’t want to replace your springs you can simple pull them up a bit with pliers, but i’d be just a temporal solution. If you’re willing to change the springs, it is a good idea to place some washers inbetween the copper board and the body, this will give you some more room to use longer batteries.
thank you for such an informative post!
i initially speculated that it was a battery issue that caused the double blink, but it began by doing it hot, so i started to link the hot with the blink.
i suspect i’ve crushed my springs. i’ll have to look.
That looks like a yes. Nichia 219 C has been recently added to the available options on the Mountain Electronics website.
Since that is RMM's personal stock I doubt it will make it the other way around (from USA to China)
Won’t using washers result in the black end cap not being able to be fully threaded back on and fully seated in its original position?
I suppose another solution is to get springs which do fully compress like the original ones but have more ‘spring’ to them, and since they won’t conduct the amps as well, use bypass wires.
It looks like S2 5A3 4000K option has been added with a nice 6600lumens of 4000K light with a tint that is not green dominant (close to the BBL but not over it). Sandstone in 4000K, sounds really good.
I don’t think you are going to have much luck improving the situation. I purchased another one of these(latest batch) and it does the exact same thing. I have stretched the springs on both of mine a couple of times. It helps a little for a day at most and then it is back to a good tap on the tail cap turns it off. Mine seem to settle in to a certain spot and don’t seem to get worse after that. A quarter inch tail stand drop will turn both mine off.
While using mine, the only time the problem occurs is when I try to tail stand it. I either have to be gentle or I have to turn it back on after I set it down. Otherwise, I can shake it and slap it around pretty good, from all angles but the tail, and it works fine.
I have now taken this out of the “Problem” category and put it into the “Characteristic” category. The M43 is awesome except for this one characteristic.
What are you getting as the output on yours?
That is a great pic!
Thanks!