NEW TrustFire TR-DF003 2x26650 3xCREE XM-L Diving Light

When you measure 2A @ tailcap while battery are about 3.8V per cell.

2 A x (3.8V + 3.8V = 7.6V) = 15.2W

Driver efficiency?
Remember that This bezel is deep?

1500± OTF :wink:

I can get it on e-bay to Australia for $83 dollars. Light only, which I don’t mind.

Light only, for that price - i think is too much. For 15$ more you get extra orings batteries and charger

Pok, shouldnt that be about 30w for 3*t6?

That’s why i always say, just get a light meter and be done with it.

Welcome to the monkey house, nowell!


15.2W x .85 = 12.16W (passing through the driver assuming its 80% efficient)
12.16W / 3xml = 4.05W/xml

4.05W / 3.4Vf = 1.19A per emitter

1.19A ~ 460 lumens from each xml “(from this thread here)”:Results: Testing XM-L, MC-E, SST-50, and XP-G emitters **Updated**

460L x 3 = 1380 bulb lumens

Factor in reflective losses + refractive losses + bezel obstruction I would expect output to be around 1000 Lumens OTF. Possibly less OTF if the deep bezel blocks more side spill than I suspect. Possibly less OTF if its a spring floating design with no thermal path, although at this low of a drive current I would not expect it to warm that much… definitely not enough heat to initiate thermal dimming on a cold start.

I saw XM-L table somewhere.
1.0A about 3.0Vf
1.5A about 3.1Vf
2.0A about 3.2Vf
3.0A about 3.3Vf

For current @ tailcap, maybe you will wait for the other to correct this.

Battery : 7.2V and I : 4A

With internal Converter: 3.6V and 4A

(Absolute) is # 1.3 A by LED

Where approximately 500 lumens per LED
Total 1500 Lumens
It is very far from 4000 Lumens announced

Rectification :
Batteries 7.2V Courant 2A

Avec convertisseur : 3.6V et 4A
Soit (en absolu) 1.3A par LED
D’ou environ 500 lumens par LED (1500 Lumens en tout)
on est très loin de 4000 Lumens annoncé

Prochain message sur ATTENTION internal O-Rings !

here :
Flux aprox. and real control autonomy

- SSC P7 (900 Lumens) 50mn

  • TR-DF003 (1800 Lumens) 2h and 1h
    26650 or 18650

- MJ-850 (1200Lumens) 2h 20mn

- MJ-878 (2200 Lumens) 1h 30mn

  • TR-DF003 (1800 Lumens) 2h and 1h
    26650 or 18650

charged batteries + rest 24 hours

Looks like the thing is eating the O-rings.

I think that putting some silicone grease on the threads once a month will solve the problem.

So are you saying you measured it at 1800 lumens? Love the Magicshine!! But for over $260! Was surprised to see you could get it at Dealextreme.

I have a TR-DF003 where all joints ls body are HS! (4)

I have just changed by my personal seals and well sealed

I dont’ like to correct you, but most readers here might not understand the expression “HS”.
Just for those wondering about it. It means “out of order” (hors-service) and it’s a common expression for things that are not working, crap, badly worn or just good for the recycling bin.

Thanks for the clarification. I had no idea what he meant by that. :slight_smile:

Seeing some beam shots would be great too.

Changing a driver will give us more current per led?
What Is the max lumens we can get from the light changing to better driver?

Hi Folks!

I’m still working on the deal and hope to have definitive news in a couple of days. I’m also wondering whether any of the scuba forums might have members who’d like to “hitch a ride” to this deal.

About the seals and the O-rings: Most divers know that the O-rings need to be checked every day they dive and that they should be lubricated at least every week of diving or every time the camera, flash or flashlight is opened. Those O-rings were definitely chewed up but it could have been caused by several things:

1)They could have been cut by dragging them over the threads during installation or because they’re too thick to fit past the interal threads.
2)They could simply have been worn due to lack of lubricant.
3)It looks like the O-rings may actually be too thick to fit in the channels (grooves) provided for them - once they’re compressed by joining the battery tube to the front and back.
4)They could have been torn because the interior of the front and back are overly rough (but the machining on this light seems too good for that to be the problem.

Looking at the photos, Option #3 seems the most likely cause. The channels (grooves) for the O-rings don’t seem to have any room (width) for the O-rings to expand into. Note that they already protrude well beyond the thread diameter - too much I think.

A good first-hand inspection should be able to shed some light on this.