I got mine too. Knurling a bit rough on my no ano but threads and everything else seem fine.
SST40: 7.2x amps on Turbo with VTC6 (tail off), brightness only went up a few percent with tail off.
I got 1,687lm and 1,604lm at 30s, ~750lm on high but I guess my sphere doesn’t measure throwers accurately?
Seems well focused, tail stands nicely.
My D80v1 modded with Luxeon V + bypassed FET driver does quite a bit more output but gets hot really quick and isn’t as well focused.
Try a long press from lowest mode.
Then, have a read in the last three pages of this thread to find the list of mode groups: the light comes default in mode group 12, with turbo not in the main sequence.
Thanks, got the turbo figured out. Will try and find the mode groups.
edit… got it set to mode grp 5. 8 modes from low to turbo, w/memory
I’ve been thinking, I probably need to buy new batteries for this. Mine are all Samsung laptop pulls and only do 4.8A. I’ve got like 40 of the them, but the low output is a little unfortunate.
I (like djozz I believe) am one of the few people who think the C8 is ugly looking so there’s a pretty good chance I will pull my cherished MTN-BST3 driver from it and put an XHP35 HI in this light. Decisions decisions
You will need a way of knowing the output of the LED at each level, like a djozz test or the CREE PCT or a datasheet. So, the ONE7135 would be valid only if they have a three channel driver. I can’t remember if this one is three channel or not. It should be exactly a full AMC7135 chip. If 350mA chips are used, then that’s what the output should be. Look at your source to determine what the LED output is at 350mA then. Same for ALL7135s level. Take the number of AMC7135 chips on the driver times the amount of each one, such as 350mA, and find the LED output for that amount of total current. The other numbers should be in the format X/255, so “4” should be 4/255 or ~1.6% of ALL7135s level, I think. I vaguely recall there was one member that did their numbers as actual percentage of total possible output, but I can’t recall whether it was Flintrock or Texas_Ace or somebody else. In that case, “4” would be 4% of ALL7135s level. This needs to be tested with a DMM, I guess. TURBO, of course, should be the full output possible from the FET.
USPS tracking for my light says I should receive it today, but it also says it is at the hub, and it doesn’t yet say that it is out for delivery, so I don’t know.
My two non-ano were out for delivery BUT the half wit part-time mail carrier balked at coming down the road the County is working on! They rebuilt the road in front of our house last year but didn’t finish the last half mile North of us, which is the direction the carrier was trying to come from. Instead of circling around delivering the rest of her route and coming in from the South she just put “No Access” and took our mail back to the office.
When I was a delivery driver I’d have been fired for not getting my job done had I pulled a stunt like that! These days anything goes when it comes to excuses… 
Ridiculous. Can you go pick them up at the post office? I’m eager to hear your impressions, and see what kind of voodoo you do on them.
At DavidEF
It is a thre chanel driver FET + 5 + 1. I know that the numbers had something to do with the 0-255 pwm. But did not know it is only for the 7135 chip. But all 7135 chips running full would only reach up to 2,1A.
At some point the FET will be added to the output. So Mid and higher will also include the fet. Any hint how to get to % numbers without measuring the current on each step in the modegroups?
One of the firmware gurus around here would be able to tell you by reading the actual code. I don’t know how to do that, unfortunately. :person_facepalming:
Mine arrived today. I finally understand that je ne sais quoi about how it feels in the hand that I saw mentioned several times. Additionally, I even like the extra gription on the burry, non-anodized knurling.
But,
mine seems to have a defect. Turbo is less bright than high and is about the angriest blue I’ve ever seen, almost looks like UV. Any ideas what’s going on?
Sounds like the led is not making good thermal contact with the body, no fun for you 
Either contact WildTrail for customer service, or start operating on your light to find the problem.
Yea, bad reflow of LED if I had to guess.
That’s horrible quality control! Why would they allow that to ship out. They said non anodized would have a few nicks but that’s just piss poor sloppy work. That crap quality control does not speak highly of luckysun. For a company trying to put out a new image for itself they failed big time!
On my anodized version, knurling on the tube and end cap look good.
It probably looks worse than it really is.
I expect that is the case with this macro pic. It will need buffing if it’s like mine but it’s not quite cheese grater. I think this knurling is just not going to be good right off a machine with no ano.
The anodized lights would need deburing before being anodized, why they wouldn’t debur the non anodized lights is just being lazy and not caring about the lights or customers.
I took that picture with my galaxy S10 cell phone. It really is that bad. Looks like it didn’t make it through one of the finish processes before going to anno. The head and tail cap are perfect. Going to ask Jacky for a new tube… I tried buffing it out with compound and a dremel buffing wheel, and all it did was tear up and shred the buffing wheel
