New WildTrail (former LuckSun) BLF-D80v2 Sale is open.

Lund, you’re being pretty harsh considering the reasons are, as yet, unknown. Let’s find out for sure what happened before delivering verdicts. Accidents do happen, will happen, and it’s not feasible to expect every single light to get loaded with a cell and tested before being shipped. That would take time and time is money, can’t demand the lowest price AND expect the highest quality control… not gonna happen.

The non-ano deal was a bit of a surprise to them, they weren’t prepared and didn’t handle the lights in any special way because of that. Bead blasting before ano would normally take care of burrs like that, but here we asked them to skip that step. Granted they probably should have hand picked some samples for the non-ano orders but probably just didn’t realize as they have never had this request. Perhaps they thought it strange we would want them machine rough… figured we were nuts. :stuck_out_tongue:

Amen, for what we are paying for this light and how it performs things will happen. Now if that sort of thing happened on the Olight Seeker 2 that I got an email about being on sale, then being up in arms would be justified.

I didn’t buy the seeker 2 BTW, I figured between my FW3A and this light, what is the point?

I sort of got the feeling there was some last minute rushing on these lights. Perhaps that blue emitter just didn’t get any thermal paste under the star… it needs to be looked into of course but a small company making a new special request run, not surprising this sort of thing crops up. Hope it wasn’t run long in that condition…

If you are referring to my anodized version comment, absolutely not. Tube and end cap look perfect under a magnifying glass.

Candor? PM me if you’d like me to take a look, don’t know if you’re comfortable going into a light or not… I can probably get to the bottom of it in short order if you aren’t sure about it.

He was referring to the battery tube on my non-anno light.

Let me express that Iam not trying to attack you or anyone else on the forum. All that Iam saying is that their quality control clearly sucks. It’s not that they had hundreds of non anodized lights set aside, they had maybe 20 non anodized lights? These metal burs aren’t from handling or anything else but crap quality control and dull machining tools.

There may be a difference of expectation going on here.
Some members may be thinking they were buying an non anodized, but otherwise high precision highly detailed manufactured flashlight.
While others who vocally encouraged the maker to give us a Raw sample that we can just beat on and love the wear and dings both at point of purchase and after use.
I fall into the second group.
I want a well performing beater that isn’t a pretentious shelf queen.
Have enough shelf queens and they are fine.

And let me be clear, there is nothing wrong with wanting perfection.
We did not ask for perfection however when we nudged and prodded/begged the making of this non ano flashlight version.
Maybe the message and listing of the flashlight was not clear enough for some folks.

Hope folks get something they can live with and enjoy.
JMHO

Peace,
Keith

Not quite right. They made a bit more than 100 without Ano. And they really do not have a crappy quality controll. They told us in advance that there were burs and machining markes on the no ano version.
They also said that they can do a better job next time if they know in advance that we want the lights raw. So i can not see why they are blamed now.
But if you are absolut not happy with the light we will find a way to solve the problem.
About the led that seems to be soldert badly. If this is the only one untill now then they have less than 1% of their lights failing.That is a real good error rate.

And i talked with Jacky about the burs again. He told me that the lights are going through a prozess called pickling before they get anodized. This removes the burrs and small nicks. But after that prozess the surface is mat.
Like you get when you deanodize a light with NaOH. And they thought we did not want the lights this way.

If this we true production non-ano, then they would have taken care of these imperfections for sure. If they were normally available they would also be polished and clear anodized too. I would imagine it’s pretty hard to make a special request such as this one come out production quality.

WooHoo! USPS tracking says my light was delivered today! I’ll get it when I get home later! :smiley: :smiley: :smiley: :smiley: :smiley:

It’s killing me, but I’m not looking at my tracking info. Trying really hard to just “wait it out” and be excited when mine gets here.

Mine came today too! I love it! Yeah its got some burrs in the grenade-grip section of the handle and I want to figure out a way to clean that up a bit more, but overall my machining is fine. And the best part of the original, the beam, is definitely still here. Thanks to all involved!

@TheOnlyDocc, pîckling should always be used to remove oxides and small nicks before anodizing, or before anodizing.

Something like a hot citric acid/sulfamic acid solution can be used.

Strange how they got the head and tail cap baby butt smooth and perfect, but not the battery tube. Had plans to CeraKote mine but need to figure out a way to debur it before.

If anyone has any ideas, let me know. Dremel buffing wheel doesn’t work (on mine at least)

New thought process to them with no prior experience, I bet when they do this for us again we’ll see a different result. :wink:

Great to hear the beam profile was kept, my fav part of the D80! :smiley:

Robert B
What about the Dremel grinding wheels? If you could fond one thin enough to fit in between the nubs.

Lund, no prob, pretty sure it’s mostly a learning curve…they’ll figure it out, after all it means money :wink:

Deburr tool Should work to scrap it clean then buff it out?

It also might depend on how aggressive the polish agent is, If it work? Maybe try some cut and polish?

I may try a deburr tool. Might try bead blasting it as Dale suggested too.