I was going to pass on this because I’m low on funds at the moment but you got me with the No Ano still being available 
Got mine! Love it! So glad I went with no ano, I’m thankful this is a trend that companies are adopting.
Sale could run better. But without samples that showed people in advance the light in detail and no reviews i did not expected that all the lights are sold out in a few weeks.
They still liked the cooperation. Also they would like to change a few things for the next project. At the moment Jacky is doing some other stuff so he is not much online.
But we are talking about future options. But it is getting harder to find the right project. Some things are not working out because materials are not available.
Some are limited by available drivers.
If i have news about the next project i will post on BLF about it for sure!
I went ahead and bought one of the no ano lights, there were only 3 left before I bought mine.
Yeah they only have a handfull of No Ano left. But we thought with all the troubles we had with AE that it would be more easy to sell the few lights we have this way.
In the future it could be possible to buy the Wildtrail lights in Neals shop. Jacky is talking with him.
So we wont see the 2000 lumens as stated from the stock SST40?
That is disappointing.
I wasn’t able to get mine yet! Still, I’m only another “1”!
Despite there was no previous review, and despite some flaws mainly on the no-ano lights mentioned here, this is a very nice light 
I do encourage any of the members that already have their lights to make a review and comparison of beams, etc!
Sometimes the GBs developed here and other flashlight projects tend to be overlooked, everything seems “natural” and all the information stays inside these huge threads where it is difficult to find structured and systematized information.
For us members and for more people looking for information, review threads will surely be helpful to have that information more clearly put!
@ TheOnlyDocc : Again, thanks for all your work and commitment in this project! And, of course, the people involved that helped this light to have a “second” life
He had one light with a bad MCPCB flow process.
I'm measuring better than 1,900 lm with Androsensor and 6.7A w/bridged tail end, so it's much closer to 2000 lm.
At timbo114
djozz had 1800 with a 30Q. And everydaysurvivalgear had a bit over 2200lumen with a 25R batterie.
Because it highly depends on internal resistance everything counts. With a light like this i always clean the threads and check all the contact points.
Then put fresh good greas on it and put everything together. I also noticed that especially the No Ano lights need a bit of tlc. But what i really like is that they used enough thermal paste. They almost used to much. So aslong your led is nicely centered you do not need to open the head. They used 20 AWG wire so this should be enough even if you plan to do a additional spring bypass at the tail. But be warned. If you do so you have a high risc of burning the led .
The ano’s are sold out!
The SST40 option That Is!
Yeah timbo, that was my light with something wrong with it, amperage was low and it acted funny. When I got it performing correctly I then bypassed springs and fried the emitter so it was kind of a wash. My own fault in the end, shouldn’t have pushed that last step…
I’ve intended to do a full review on my second light but health issues interfered, hopefully I can do it tomorrow (Tues)
Thanks for making us aware, I was planning to bypass both.
Do you think slicing the SST-40 increases that risk?
There is some theory that the lack of a dome decreases the possibility for heatshedding somewhat but to my knowledge no one has seen that happening in real life. Maybe Dale or Kawi know more than me. But in general messing with leds increases the risk of dirt left behind on the silicone which can be the start of a smoking led. But dirt can be seen and cleaned off with some isopropanol.
Right, I need to gain more experience too.
Recently I’m confused about how even should be the remaining dome surface (after slicing). I’ve read many people here sand it with very fine water sandpaper (2000 grid and up). I did more or less the same, sliced and played with sanding. Yeah, it takes time to sand it down with 2000 grid paper by hand. Recently I’ve made some trials on how the beam looks like on varoius stages of sanding and I can see not much diffrence. Maybe slightly more defined hotspot, but I’m wondering is it worth that labor spent on sanding. The only disadvantage I noticed is that uneven (scratched) top surface may favor burning the phosphor layer.
My experience with sanding is only the LH351D. I found that the LH351D after slicing can be sanded very nicely, I tried up to 7000 grit even, and it looks very nice like that. But nowadays I go for a very clean slice only with no sanding (I have the impression that the Wilkinson razorblades are best for a goodlooking shiny slice) because I see no difference in beam but think that the output is better than sanded.
Yep i had a sliced SST40 from my FT03 out of the light for as few months while i had a XHP50.2 in the FT03. Other day i put the SST40 back in and it started smoking and burnt the silicone on top but didn’t touch the phosphor layer so its working for now. I had it stored in a soft plastic wrapper as the 28mm board was to big to put in a container. I also had butter fingers and dropped it on the floor lol. It was fine before i took it out. I also have a sliced SST40 in a Cometa and a C8 which are fine.
As for the bypass my D80 is bypassed and its still okay after a week or more. I have pics of the bypass further back in the thread. Its one of those do it at your own risk things as your mileage may vary. Even when slicing it be careful because i have killed one by slicing the bonding wires you cant get that low on these LEDs.
I probably sound crazy but i legit have OCD i went to some specialist for anxiety and got told that, any ways. Now i try not to open lights with a bigger reflector because if it gets dirty or fluff inside it does my head in and i try and get it spotless and its ruined so many reflectors lol. Right now i have this issue with my FT03. I also see this when i am working on cars i usually have to check bolts multiple times to make sure they are tight Sigh
So i opened the D80 and the reflector is in tight because of the o-ring and i just left as not to ruin any thing.
I used a toothpick and pushed the mcpcb from the bottom on the D80v2. Almost ruined O ring before switching to that method