Ah you lads are geniuses thanks so much makes sense now. The second set of blinks are a tad fast but its okay.
I clicked on mode 5 then on mode 8 and its 8 modes similiar to bistro.
I don’t use drivers to there capabilities seeing as i rotate a bunch of lights i hate having to play with modes all the time.
Thanks for explaining! I actually don’t what came first, “the chicken or the egg”, so I my referral to Flintrock was having this post as basis!
It seems to me that he did something to make a list, that can be seen here: [UPDATE:v1.7.1,Q8&1chanOTSM]bistro-HD, bistro your way. OTSM, eswitch(devel), Vcc reads, safe_presses, turbo timeout... .
However, credits to the “original” works on this kind of UI.
Resumé:
It WORKS!
There are at least 24-26 group modes to configure / chose
1 - Enter configuration mode: from ON, half press at least 15 times until you stop seeing light. Then release the switch.
2 - Light starts blinking like this: 1 blink > strobe; 2 blinks > strobe, …. 8 blinks > strobe)
3 - Half press on the “5th blink > strobe”
4 - After half pressing on the 5th, the light will start blinking 1 time per group mode (1st blink = 1st group, 2nd blink= 2nd group, …) .
5 - Count the amount blinks and when it reaches the number of the group mode you want to select , half press again and the blinks will stop. Turn the light OFF and then turn it ON, the group mode is selected.
Ex: to choose group mode 4: count 4 blinks and half press. you should get this configuration:
The second set of blinks is so hard to count. What I do is wait for it to blink out 26 times and there will be a long pause and the blinks will start over again. I then count to the third blink and click off. Third blink because that is my favorite mode group, no flicker modes.
By the time the light gets to 7 or 8 blinks my eyes are adding their own blinks. Very difficult to count.
I did the same thing Dale did. Initial setup at four blinks (moonlight + 4), like I always do with my bistro lights.
I was using Bistro a year before most anyone else saw it, testing prototypes with TK. It’s been a tail clicky favorite of mine for a WHILE now!
I shouldn’t have assumed though, closed minded of me. 
So i think i will open a new thread in the near future. Not a light specific thread. It will be more of a Wildtrail thread. Where i post about new lights from Wildtrail and other news i get.
At the moment we are talking about a new light. It will not be a GB but i will always try to get a better price for us.
We are talking about the details now but i can say that tube and tailcap will be made out of Aluminium. The central head part (ledshelf finns. . . ) will be made out of copper or brass and to protect the head the bezel will most likely be made out SS. Driver will most likely be a Narsil or Anduril compatible sideswitch driver. I saw the first drawings not long ago. I will push again for some mayor changes in the design to get better thermal capabilities of the light. Now i wait for some more changes and drawings that show me the more precise measurements.
Also one bare SST-70 is on its way to djozz for testing.
Please use copper instead of brass. I modded a Nightwatch IRA from Enogear with a heavy copper pill and the heatsinking is phenomenal. The quad E21A emitter output drops far slower in that host than in any other host I’ve tried. Massive aluminum heat fins with copper pill/shelf works!
Yes! A nice big copper pill with nice big deep heat-sinking fins! :partying_face:
Not too heavy please, all my heavy flashlights are being pretty on a shelf but will never be used.
Interesting…
I second this. As cool as it looks dont make the entire head section out of copper unless it’s an AA light or something. A shelf or press fit insert or just AL with a thick/wide MCPCB is probably fine.
I want full Cu fins/pill with a W body. 
That makes two to one sofar for lightweight 
But I ain’t carving no Tungsten block on my little ol lathe so SOMEBODY has to do it for me!
You just haven’t gotten around to it. Yet.
I have a 500 gram little block of tungsten at work for demonstration purpose, it sure feels impressive! 
Bistro UI
any more question?
Mode group the light gets delivered is 4, so Turbo inside normal mode loop (not hidden like 12 that TA Bistro default MG is)
That’s good to hear! Please post a link to your new thread when you create it.
I’d love a pocketable dual-switch thrower running Andúril. ToyKeeper implemented dual-switch support almost a year ago, and it’s great. I have a modded EagleEye X6R using Andúril and dual switches, and it’s my favorite pocket thrower.
The forward clicky tail switch locks out the light and acts as a ‘momentary on’ at the last-used level. The e-switch works just like any other Andúril light. You can turn the light on and off with the e-switch and use the tail switch just for lockout (or not at all) if you’d like.
I was not a fan of dual-switch lights until TK added the feature to Andúril. I think it’s by far the best way to utilize dual switches, but it’s important to use a forward clicky switch.
I use the same on my C8F. Once I got the fuses right it comes on with no delay too.
Still, dual switch is pretty niche but cool to have on a couple lights anyway
I am searching for pictures of the Nightwatch IRA from Enogear. The one with the pressfit copper pill. If someone can help me out i would be very thankfull!
I want to show it to Wildtrail as a example how to get very good heat handling without making a brick that nowbody wants to use in the real world.
I really like copper. But machining it will make a light expensive (because of the high scrap rate) and heavy. Do not get me wrong Copper lights make beautifull shelf queens but if i go out fishing . . . i do not have a 2 pound copper light in my backpack.
Also i build a lot of cooler for pcs in the past and modded a lot. And i can say for sure that most of the time it is not worth the extra weight to build a cooler out of full copper (except watercooler).
It helps to use copper near the heatsource to use the extremly good thermal conductivity of the copper to spred the heat fast. But a bit further away it is more sensible to use Aluminium for structural items and the finns. . . They are stronger and way less prone to damage this way. Also the factory will have less lights to scrap during production.
I do not know if they still want to build the full copper head light when we are a bit further down the road. But i hope i can at least stop them from filling up their for now small product lineup with mediocre fast produced lights. That would not help anyone. But i can understand that they want to get a few more light to their lineup. And maybe they will go for both options. Will have to wait for the factorys answere.
It would really help if i could show them a few detail pics from the copper press fit pill in the Enogear Nightwatch IRA.