Based on all features of PB2S, this new version PB2SL can support protected 20700/21700 batteries. As some users gave the feedback before, the space in the PB2S seems a little bit big for 18650 batteries during usage. So we add a rotating plastic piece, to keep the 18650 batteries in a fixed position. And a removable locking spacer is also designed for accommodating flat-top batteries. Do you like these upgrades?
You can remove the sticky mess. Manufacturers tried this “rubberized” coating on portable radios for a while a few years back. With the same results. A sticky mess over time. Look up “Eton X1 remove sticky finish”. Bottom line, I bought some cleaner called Purple Power. Wetting a rag wetting the surface and then waiting a minute or two, the stuff wipes right off.
Might be worth a try. But I am not sure why designers would still be trying to use this finish. It is obviously a hard fail.
You would have to try it. In the case of the radios, it did, but it took a long time with lots of alcohol, and you could remove labeling if not careful. I did three radios with the Purple Power stuff. No problem with labels. It left all of the printing intact. But this is dependent on how the labels are applied.
But is you lost the labels, would it be a disaster? So, how much to you hate the stickiness becomes the question…
That is a label, regardless of how it is applied.
A label does not have to be something stuck on. It can be printed or silk screened, or painted, or engraved, or raised, or embossed.
No way to know about IPA removing it without knowing how it was applied and the materials used. You would have to try on a small area to see. I am not sure anyone can answer this unless they have actually tried it. Maybe you will be lucky and find that person. But somehow I don’t think it likely.
But I ask again, what bothers you more, the stickiness or not having the printed info? I guess if it is the info, don’t take the chance. Just leave it sticky. Otherwise, clean it and risk the labeling. Or maybe compromise. Mask off the area with the info and clean the rest.
I’d prefer if they just didn’t use this finish in the first place.
I had their PB2-C (I think? the one before the pb2s) and it was a smooth finish plastic, and honestly it was fine. I only got the PB2-C because it had PD functionality, so I sold off the PB2S.
It’s only a cosmetic thing but it really looks ugly af. I understand that iso prop will get it off but I just don’t understand why manufacturers still use this finish. It doesn’t even look wildly that much more “aesthetic” than the smooth plastic.
This charger / powerbank is one I’ve always thought would be nice to have.
I’ve been using an Xtar Ant MC1 Plus to charge 21700 cells, since it’s the only charger I have which is long enough. The PB2S / PB2SL would be much nicer though, and also works as a pretty nice power bank.
I had a mouse whose top surfaces had the textured coating. Patches started to wear off before it became sticky, but it can be removed, with some elbow grease, or some sort of solvent (that’s plastic safe).
The PB2 I bought for a trip a few years ago shows no ill symptoms, but it has mostly sat in a drawer since.
This PB2SL = PB2S “2023 Edition” rebranding so people would actually notice the changes, no?
The MC1 Plus is my favorite XTAR charger; simple, cheap, and works as expected.
@xtarflashlight Any plans for a powerbank where we can limit maximum charging current to 1A rather than it charging one cell at 2A if either only one slot is filled, or the battery in the other slot is already full (and preferably also limit to 500mA), and perhaps check the voltage of each battery separately without having to enable the output?
In general I don’t like charging 18650s at 2A as it’s harder on them, and while I will charge 21700 at 2A in a pinch, when I have the time I prefer 1A for the same reason. Especially since in an enclosed powerbank, the batteries get warmer than in an open bay charger.