Nichia 119's for cheap (also Cree XLAMP-7090's)

I soldered a few of these to SinkPads using .001” thick Kapton tape to insulate the thermal pad (I think that with the adhesive it is actually around .0015” thick). I used a .003” thick XPG solder paste stencil (with the thermal pad opening covered with tape). All of them worked fine.

I was a bit concerned that the Kapton tape might push up some and prevent the 3 mil thick solder paste layer from making contact (remember .003” is the thickness of a sheet of paper).

I think that the Kapton tape is a better way of doing it than grinding off the thermal pad… it is fairly heat conductive and does give some thermal coupling to the star… particularly with SInkpad/Noctigon stars with the direct thermal path to the star.

It should also help with regular stars to fill the gap between the thermal pad and the raised LED contact pads. One might even want to use a two or three of layers of tape with those stars.

Copper Sinkpad for 700mA emitter, really texaspyro? :slight_smile: If you have too much moolah, you can always just send them to me, I can help with proper disposal.

I also use Kapton tape + standard XPG base (aluminium - poor man’s copper), it’s just so easy and works really well. No need to bother with grinding. Just tape the top base, cut off to expose +/- section, and reflow. It can’t get any easier than that.

I run these at 700mA (2x7135) without any problem so far. No signs of current leak.

Didn’t have any aluminum ones handy…


Can you provide a pic with the tape (before reflowing the emitter, preferably)?

Also, do you think that this (tape method) would reflow ok without stencil (but with solder paste)?

I’m wondering if the solder paste would flow UNDER the tape, onto the middle pad, during the reflow (or melt the tape)?

I think I mentioned that I have some parallel triple stars from IS that I’d like to reflow the emitters onto, but have been dreading trying to grind out the middle pad, so if the reflow works with kapton tape, and without a stencil, that’d be great.

Kapton tape was designed to tape off gold fingers on boards going through wave soldering…

Should work fine when using regular solder… maybe even better than with paste/stencil since you will have a thicker layer of solder.

Packaged arrived in good shape.

Tested a couple last night. I sanded off the middle pad on both 16mm and 8mm boards (thanks RacerR86 for the tip), reflowed with just a soldering iron, and fired them up. Very nice neutral tint! One has already gone into a Nitecore EZAA that previously had an older Cree XRE with a horrible bluish tint. The Nichia is not as bright, but the tint is much better.

Mine arrived today, and boy, they are really tiny!! I haven’t tried yet, but with them being so small, when you cut the Kapton tape, is it like just a “sliver” of tape that you cut and lay down on top of the middle pad on the board?

Cutting a strip of the proper width is a pain. I’ve found it easier to stick a bigger piece of tape on the pad and trim it with a razor. I try to get the width such that it covers half the gap between the thermal pad and LED contacts.

Also, don’t worry much about trimming off any excess length of the strip that sticks out of the edges of the LED.

Here are a few different mounting options I have been playing with. These may or may not be useful to someone:

First up. Dual 119s on X-ml stars. No modifications to the pad required. Can be either in series or parallel— one of each:

The other method is using two pieces of copper tape with a small gap between them, directly mounted to a heatsink. This is a picture of three in series mounted this way around a Chinese 10w, to help improve the color:



Sorry to bother you, but can you post a better picture of the parallel configuration on the XM-L star?

Also, did you hand solder the emitters onto the XM-L star pads, or can you reflow them with solder paste?

No bother.

Here is another shot of just the parallel setup (this is currently mounted in my mini-01, although it is producing a small donut hole. I am thinking about reflowing the emitters and trying to raise the two ends with excess solder, to put the emitters on slight angles to each other. Sorry for the digression, we’ll see EDIT: actually I increased the space between the emitters and the reflector and the hole is better. The beam is not perfect, but it is passable now.):

To describe the arrangement: I use a hot plate and solder paste to mount the emitters. The negatives are connected to the outside pads and then the wire pads are shorted together with another wire. The positives are connected to the center thermal pad and the positive driver wire is connected to the small protrusion on the pad.

Let me know if anything is still not clear.

got mine yesterday, thanks tp :slight_smile:

Please put me down for 30 please. Not sure what I will do with them yet but I still have a few Xitanium drivers lying around in my box (outputs 700ma.) I just bought a house so I’m sure I’ll be able to scrap up some fixed lighting things.


Mine arrived today. :bigsmile:


I finally got around to trying this, reflowing 3 of the Nichia 119s onto a parallel 3up board from IS.

I used the Kapton tape method to insulate the middle pad:

and it lights up!

I just tried to solder some of these…
I used regular solder, worked not so good first…then I pretined the LEDs too and that worked.
They look definitely not so neat like yours, they didn’t jump in place when hot…next time I will use standard reflowing procedure with solder paste…

On the single led I used the grinding and filled the gap with Fujik, but Fujik behaves a bit weird while soldering. The kapton variant works better.
The one with the small copper piece and blob of Fujik is a test, I first used just the wires as heatsink(50mm awg22 on each side) but decided to spend a copper scrap…

The light is interesting because colours look really good but the colour temperature is neutral never seen that before…


Yes, at least from my one attempt, I think using solder paste and kapton tape to insulate the middle pad on the board seems to work well. With that, the emitters did “move” into place once the solder paste went shiny, just like normal reflowing.

I was pleasantly surprised… I was worried that the kapton tape would cause a problem with the reflowing and moving because it does have some “height”, but it worked fine.

At least from my experience, Fujik melts when it gets hot. I had tried to use Fujik to hold a 7135 in place when I stacked it, but that was a disaster, because the Fujik went liquid, and the 7135 just started floating around :)… Same thing happened when I tried using AA instead.

Hi there!

Just wondering if you still had these available.

I’m now pretty sure that I threw out my 30 emitters :_( (maybe this will teach me to look in those small open packets before recycling them)

If your answer is yes then I’d like 20 30 more emitters please (there’s a project I still need them for.)


Edit - actually 30 again please.

Yes, I have more. I also have a few with a 3600K color temperature.

I will take all neutral 119’s please.