have been looking for a comparison of Nichia 219 vs XP-G2, unfortunately despite Nichia being sold out on IS there are none beamshots that would compare it to XP-G2.
There is only few beamshots around the net of the Nichia without a comparison
So color rendering, tint, output power, comparison is not avaible.
They can both be got from IS. If somebody has both, could you take a couple of pictures for a comparison? Same host preferred, but anything will do.
Also, from your personal experience how is the output of the Nichia 219 with a single Lion cell and a current limiting driver (buck, not boost). Or what boost driver you would recommend to use with Nichia, since Nichia needs higher voltage than Cree LEDs to run at 1.5A.
This is not supposed to be a flame war or something, please keep it factual and informative.
Thank you.
Manufacturer specifications are linked on IS website.
If you are going to shoot a comparison, please include a few colored objects of various colors, something white as well if possible.
Shots of just one or the other are also welcome! if you cannot compare.
I can offer XP-G2 R5 4C VS Nichia 219 - they both have the same colour temperature (4500k)
XP-G2 R5 4C in Solarforce L2N (P60 drop-in OP textured)
and
Nichia 219 (NVSL219AT-H1) in the same Solarforce L2N (P60 drop-in OP textured)
Pictures are not taken on the same day, but the camera settings are the same (White Balance: 5000k).
Thank you, I hope it will be helpful for others as well.
Any two similar tints, doesn’t have to be 3D, though to compare with this Nichia it should be some NW tint. Intl-outdoor had many XP-G2 tints, unfortunately IO and their stock = 0 almost all the time.
It does help, the Nichia seems much warmer (more red), same as on other pictures I found of Nichia. Surprisingly to me the output seems about the same, was the time/aperture/ISO set the same? Since at the same Amps Nichia is much less effective and produces less light output. It does look good none the less, notice the blueish square pattern on Nichia shot and how hard it is to see it on XP-G2 shot.
I too am interested in this comparison. Could those posting shots also include a "control" shot to show us how the colors / walls should really appear in "daylight"?
BTW I did ask Craig from IS but they do not have a comparison.
Only confirmed that yes Nichia should be driven with a buck/boost driver since it needs higher voltage to provide full output.
I can’t make a decision since there is so few beamshots available.
I do like the better availability and parameters of XP-G2.
I don’t know what all the fuss is about with Nichias so I want to see it compared
I’ve only found that Nichias have high CRI at higher temperature but negatives of them is the high voltage and they seem rather mechanically sensitive, easy to dedome by mistake at least that’s what I’ve found here on the forum.
Where as XM-L domes I normally clean with a lens cloth, I’m afraid if I would blow at the Nichia the dome would fly off.
Also Nichia is lower and harder to focus in XP-G reflectors.
Personally I see quite few negatives with Nichias and the only positive is the output CRI.
So I want to see whether that magical CRI is worth it or not compared to XP-G2 in similar tint.
I built a Nichia P60 and I use it much more often than my 700+ lumen XM-Ls because the 219 renders colors so naturally. If you’d like fully regulated output I recommend you this 17mm buck driver from DX and that you use two or more lithium cells. It is only 1.25A, but the 219 does not make much more light at 1.5A.
If you want to use a boost driver compatible with single lithium primaries or 3.2V LiFePO4 cells, I built a Nichia P60 with this driver from Intl-Outdoor. It is regulated above 1.8V and is easy to modify for greater output because it has a blank space for another parallel sense resistor (I ordered two drivers then put both sense resistors on one driver, haha). If you need multiple modes this boost driver should fit the bill.
It does not make much sense to have a huge host with 2 lions and use a Nichia.
The last 2 drivers are not for a lion battery. Or are they actually tested to survive the 4.2V of lion batteries? They do not seem to be current regulated and increasing the voltage means increasing their output. Unless the chip detects input voltage and sets the output itself.
I recommend protected cells like 2x16340 or preferably 2x18350 for sufficient voltage to regulate output over entire battery life.
The single mode boost driver supports one 3V CR123a lithium primary and 1x16340/18650 3.2V (3.6V nominally) lithium-iron phosphate cell. It appears well regulated in the builds in which I have used it.
However, I looked around a little bit and I found this 1A, Hi-Med-Low buck-boost driver. Seems like that’s the ticket: it accepts one ‘normal’ (4.2V nominal) 18650.
I’m on my mobile dumbphone so my apologies if this post isn’t formatted correctly…
Yes. However, if you desire fully-regulated output the higher voltage they provide is required for a buck-only driver.
With an XP-G, certainly; the 219’s forward voltage is high enough at >1 amp drive current to largely mitigate that effect with LiFePO4 cells. Conveniently the 219’s efficacy is more acceptable at mid-range drive currents.
The 219 requires a Buck-Boost driver in order to make full use of 4.2/3.7V cells.
The 219 carries some “yes—but” baggage to consider
but I’ll opine that the 219 is a sweet emitter that is worth the extra consideration required for flawless operation.
I think I’ll wait for the Nichia 219 as I might use it as a low power lamp, which makes it very simple to power. LM317 constant current wired with variable output current if I want to.
For a flashlight there really seems to be no buck/boost driver to supply 1.5A from fresh single lion battery until the battery is drained below a limit. Sure use a buck driver and get over the quickly decreasing output, not my sort of thing. I’ve just checked IS, IO, FT and not a single driver there to be used with a single lion in over 1A buck/boost mode.
Thats right. But lets assume 30min fully regulated on two cells. Then they are empty. A decent 18650 cell can give you 30min fully regulated.. plus another 30min+ with lower output. I'd prefer the latter..
These drivers regulate the current at 1A. The Nichia has a Vf of about 3.4V @ 1A. I dont see any sense in using these drivers with LiFePO4 cells unless you really WANT to use LiFePO4 cells. Why is that? Because a LiFePO4 18650 cell has about the same capacity as 2 16340/18350.. or in other words: about half the capacity of a decent 18650. So my above argument becomes valid again. I get the same runtime with the same output PLUS some more runtime with less output.
Great drivers for 1AA, 2AA, CR123.. but for regular 18650s: not useful. I'm sure it will go into direct drive as long as Vin>Vf. You might still have modes, but the driver will not touch current and voltage (maybe a bit because of losses).
I have a BLF-mini driver in a UF C3 ss host with a 219. It draws 1.4A on high mode (with an Efest IMR 14500 at 4.05V, almost full), that is nearly perfect for the 219 IMO.
And a xpg2-4C is in my Xeno-03. A white wall shot, left 219, right xpg2-4C:
The green is greener than appears in reality.
I assembled some colourfull stuff (thanks to my 2-y-o-son, and at the risk of being ridiculed -again- by my girl ). The UF on high, Xeno at med, but a bit further away because of tighter hotspot (so 219 is at 1.4A, xpg2-4C is at 1.2A). Illumination appeared about the same like this.
Left 219, right xpg2-4C:
The 219 shows more of the colours more natural than the xpg2-4C (best seen actually in the oak floor), but the xpg2 is performing really ok. and again the greenish tint of the xpg2 is not that green.
). The UF on high, Xeno at med, but a bit further away because of tighter hotspot (so 219 is at 1.4A, xpg2-4C is at 1.2A). Illumination appeared about the same like this.