Still haven’t received mine. I’m thinking of ordering some leds and noctigons, maybe I’ll try to make a triple as well some day.
^
Same here. Mine are still on a slow boat.
If those are even warmer then they are 3500K-3750K
I assume the specs are deliberately kept ambiguous for everyone to think whatever they want about color temperature and CRI, more sales that way considering 3500K-3750K are not that popular (yes, even if you can get 10 people to talk about them on the same thread)
I received mine today, so I have just modded a sk98 with a 2x 219A star. Added an extra star beneath to raise the leds a little bit, so they won’t be perfectly focused. Now I get two squares barely separated, so if I just don’t zoom max I get a rectangular beam 
More than likely they are that “low” in K… The surprising thing is how much I like the tint. Like I said, I am a CW/Low NW kind of tint person. These are rosy, but they look great, not much flashback a the same drive level as something in a 2 or 3 tint bin… These work great outdoors as they do not kill your night vision as much as a whiter tint.
I agree with your statement on them being deliberately ambiguous about the color temp and CRI, but for less than $3, they are worth it to explore some warm tints…
The 90+ CRI A's are known for their slightly rosy tint. That's a good sign.
I think they are warmer than the nichia 119 that I’ve bought earlier. I’m not sure if I like my tints to be this warm though.
When comparing to my blf a6 with 5a tint the nichias are yellow while the 5a looks white.
Blf a6 compared to sk98 with dual nichias, phone pic with white balance set to sunshine/daylight
As I was saying, the expectation is to be some 5000K. That looks clearly like a 3500K color temperature.
The 5000K 219B-V1 is also slightly rosy (slightly) even if it is not as warm as the 4500K, which is so called "A". I am not yet aware of Nichia LEDs with the greenish reputation of CREE LEDs. But to be fair it is also what many sellers and manufacturers have traditionally pushed out and also traditionally accepted by buyers for the simple fact that it is "neutral not so bad as the cool whites"
Even the term 5A is one of ambiguity, when clearly the 5A4 will be more rosy than 5A2, so reports will be mixed just a bit, especially if reflectors differ greatly (how much corona for example).
I also got 3 of them today. I plan to use them on a noctigon XP32 with a FET driver. Do they survive with a IMR cell like a 25R or something similar in direct drive?
No. I'm pretty sure the 219a tops out at 3 - 3.5 amps. On DTP board.
According to the CPF testing you get around 336lumen at 1.5A and around 360lumen ant 2A, not sure how much they are worth really in terms of overdriving, output for sure it is low, keep in mind the testing at CPF is done on a higher bin in 4500K the ones at FT are around 3500K at a theoretically lower bin (like all warm whites) I dont know about direct drive, but the output will be anyway quite low for those warm whites, then add some 10% loss in the optics, more in the glass, etc.
..and the original 219A's I have had (and tested) have a very high Vf, even direct drive on a IMR 18650 cell it does not get over 2A
Just ordered NVSL219AT-H3 today. Hopefully the result is acceptable.
Thanks, ok so far we have one no and one yes 
I think I just mount them on the triple board (in parallel) and see how many amps they pull with the FET driver and one 25R.
If they have a high Vf they should automatically limit the current to a safe level.
ReManG has had some of the Fasttech 219A's sent to me, they arrived a few days ago. Will do a side-by-side comparison in a flashlight to the original ones from Illlumination Supply two years ago, probably monday.
Here's Djozz's test of a 219a vs 219b;
So yes, the high Vf will limit current draw.
I wonder what the effect of the triple will have on the Vf?
Thanks for the chart. In my understanding there will be no effect on the Vf for each LED because this is a fixed thing we can not change. But what happens is that the 3 LEDs share the work, basically each LED operates at a lower voltage i.e. is more efficient.
If you feed the triple with say 3A, every LED gets 1A and produces around 180 lumens so together 540 lumens.
If you would feed 3A to a single LED it would be less efficient and would produce only around 400 lumens.
Exactly, and it not just produces more light, the voltage being lower it makes it easier on the battery: in a constant current situation it stays longer at the set current, in a direct drive situation the current goes up getting even more light.
I have to say, I am impressed with just a 3A driver in a triple, no need for a FET driver with these… A 12 x 7135 would be plenty of drive for most triples… My humble opinion only…