Nice. 
I prefer NW as well.
So the XHP-50 on the noctigon removed the yellow/green corona and a donut cross?
For the most part. It went from “eww” to “ehh”. LOL
It’s still a large [quad] die Cree in a deep styled reflector, so it’s not perfect. But the delta in tint across the beam is at least cut in half, my best guess is around a third of stock.
Also, I did go and measure lux. I got about a ~5% increase too, if I remember the old numbers correctly (95% confident). I don’t know if that’s due to higher output due to the noctigon or from the focusing or both. The heat transfer with the Noctigon is noticeably better than even the modded stock board, so there may be an output bump due to that in the 1-2% range.
Also, the original beam had a very noticeable bright cross in the center, especially when viewed peripherally. Now it’s an ever so slight dark cross/dot. I want to mess with it a bit more someday, but for now it’s okay. Honestly though, I think it’s at the best point for corona tint shift mitigation while maintaining an acceptable donut hole.
Any thoughts on replacing the XHP50 with an XHP70?
I know this is kind of an old thread, but I thought I’d add to it just a little.
I recently purchased the ec4 w/ xml2. I replaced the LED w/ a U4 on a 16mm Noctigon, Arctic Silver paste, and managed to stack (2) r100 resistors onto the stock r010. I got over 4A @ the LED. In case anyone is wanting to boost theirs… It takes steady hands, but it’s possible and definitely worth it IMO. It’s a very nice light. Seems to dissipate heat very efficiently.
Nothing wrong with bumping old threads when there is something to add.
I like this form factor. I wonder how it’d go with XPL-HI and driver replacement. Looks more pocketable than a C8
Are the batteries 2S or 2P? Can you pleasde show some pics how the driver is assembled? Is it a 17mm driver?
Batteries are 2S. The driver is not the typical driver you’d expect to find. It’s the shape of the battery tube, and it actually takes up 2 boards that are separated (and held together) by a plastic frame.
Imo your best bet would be to perform a current boost on the stock driver, as it seems like it would be a real pain to somehow rig another one in.
I’m planning to swap a dedomed 219C in to one for a semi-thrower to keep in a holster attached to my backpack. One thing I’ve been wondering is how difficult it is to remove the mechanical reverse-polarity protection Nitecore is (in)famous for, as I have lots of flat-tops and prefer to be able to use them in all my lights.
Thank you!
They’re on sale right now
Saul, your mod post above makes me wish more than ever that I still had steady hands!
Hey guy, can i replace the xm-l2 led with xhp50 led(6v), it’s run on 2 cell 18650, so maybe it can drive 6v led properly
I want to know that too
Does someone know the answer ?
Sorry kiriba-ru, I don’t know why but I recall having not understand your answer on the other thread…
I’ve re-read it now and, if I’m not completely stupid…you’re saying that a buck driver can drive a LED that has a Vf nearly as high as the voltage input ?
So a 2S buck driver can handle a 6V LED, such as XHP50 and Nichia 144A ?
Yes. In fact small difference in voltages is better (higher effincy), but I do not recommend to combine 6V leds with R mods.
If driver components were chosen for big power and you change 3v led to 6v led, you should receive same output current (and this is so for famous russian drivers from ebay).
EC4 driver gives same output power (twice less current) with 6v led, this means there is no reserve in R-L-C circuit. Combining 6V led with R mods (even thermal R mod) may cause problems.
I have cutted piece of stock board with thermal R and glued it to the head from inside. Thermal management should stay similar to the stock one.
I use the russian drivers found on ebay, they’re fabulous !
Anyway, back on topic I could reflow an XHP50 on the stock MCPCB, right ?
I cant recommend this.
You should better find some OP reflector for 4-dies leds. There are lots of them in similar size (diameter).
I have used reflector from this cheap host: http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_347549.html together with S2+ spacer upside down, just needed to sand reflector OD by 0.2mm. Also you can find 35mm OP reflector in C2 size lights. Size is similar to Cute-3 optics so here should be lots of modders that have them without need. (No, there is not enough place for 35mm triple in EC4).
So I decided to open up my EC4SW. I’ve had it for months but never really loved it. Great form factor but it felt pretty weak, especially for at MT-G2. But this thread gave me the information I needed to get in there and “tune it up” a bit 
This is definitely not the easiest light I’ve ever disassembled, but the descriptions given earlier in the thread were spot-on. Thanks all! I removed the whole driver chunk from the light as described, then I had to unsolder the 6 “bridge” connectors that hold the two boards on top of each other. Not easy, but doable.
So here’s that driver, all laid open and showing its private parts:
And again after bridging that sense resistor. Well technically I stacked a 000 on top, but same thing:
The bad news is that I don’t own any testing gear to measure the exact difference, but I can say that my subjective impression is that this made a very big difference in output. Lumens are up significantly; so is heat. This little thing gets hot, fast now. I replaced all that gunked up thermal insulation compound that Nitecore squirted all in my light with a proper layer of Arctic Alumina, so I think that has to help some. This isn’t the easiest driver to work on but if you’re so inclined its well worth the effort.