Noctigon KR1AA initial impressions

Ughhhh it’s doodoo brown :smiling_face_with_tear::cry::sob:
At least no one will steal it…


The box it came in

Size comparo.
(With Olight 2500mAh NiMH in either light, d3aa Al bezel is 72g, kr1aa steel bezel is 69g. The Al bezel on its own is roughly 1+ grams, but by handfeel weighs roughly 1/3-1/4 as much as the steel.)

CCT comparo

Quick summary of impressions:

The NTG 4200k is rather rosy rather like a very pale end of a cherry blossom. **-It makes the TS10 4000k look like pee in comparison…what a combo, pee and poo, lol…although, it’s not a fair statement, because even relatively neutral DUV like the Nichias in my D3AA look kinda green in comparison- The body ridges lend well to the cigar style grip, and the switch feels similar to a camera shutter button, feels exactly as expected, like a membrane infused eclicky. The sound tickles my brain, if not for the slight grindiness of metal on metal. The threads are quite thick and squared away.

The inner body tube could use some work, as it’s kind of gritty looking…so far so good though.

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Body portion with intentional machining knurling, surprisingly comfortable for cigar hold, offers A LOT of traction. More comfortable than the WurkTS10.

Square cut threads, typical lube. Cleaned it right off and put my own, to remove any factory metal shavings

The inner body tube, looks to be plastidipped or similar

The tailcap, unfortunately the magnet orientation is opposite the polarity of the Olinks, will check later to see if it is not glued

The business end

There is indeed an AR coated glass, with an oring sealing it against the bezel. The bezel does have an inner lip where the oring sits.

Silver bezel with the silver filler ring, would be classier if the brown weren’t so poo colored…the SS Bezel does add a noticeable heft to the overall carry weight

The tail oring, had some small flecks of aluminum on them, but cleaned it off and relubed.

**the tailclip does rotate rather freely without the oring installed, but the oring gives it enough compression to act as an anti-roll when fully tightened

***Conclusion of initial impressions, besides my personal custom color choice, I feel that once Hank gets all the little wrinkles ironed out, he will have hit a home run with this one. Not to mention, He has already offered full support in case of anything going wrong; if that isn’t indicative of a great business, I don’t know what is.

I’ll followup in a few days after carrying and using it for a while, and whether or not I feel like the magnetic switch is of a value or a hindrance, as I work in an environment with lots of ferrous particulate.

****(the magnet is nowhere near as strong as the d3aa magnet, taking into account the size and form factor. Still functional though, can mount horizontally on a steel bed frame, but slides if gently nudged. Might be better to leave the Al bezel to reduce the moment of inertia.)

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Had a feeling you weren’t going to like it after I posted the pics of mine! I was also hoping for more of a brown…but it grew on me a bit. The loose clip is driving me a little nutty though, not sure if you got one.

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I did get the clip, it’s JUST retentive enough that it doesn’t spin if used as an anti-roll on a 10ish degree surface.

**on a side note, I am GLAD I got the silver parts for high contrast, it makes the poo look less poo, lol

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Well, I finally got my KR1AA yesterday. I ordered on 12/8/2025. So it was right at three weeks for delivery. So far I like it. I got the NTG50 5000K 95CRI version in Cyan with polished SS bezel and clip. I added the green Tritium vial to the SS (silver colored) switch.

The switch has been fine. Is has lower effort that my TS10 V1 that I normally carry and is not as “clicky” . IOW a bit soft at actuation.

The light is comfortable in the hand. The micro grooves give it plenty of grip without being a cheese grater like my D3AA. I can see already that those grooves will gather dirt. This can be seen in the pic above and below.

The tritium vial is not very bright. In pitch dark it is only visible from a few feet away. I tried to take a phot, but I couldn’t get the camera to show it anywhere close to what my eye sees.

In this pic, I would have expected to be able to see some glow from it, but nothing there.

While I haven’t measured it yet, the CCT actually seems warmer than other 5000K lights I have. Perhaps that is due it being more on the rosy side of things. It has a nice tint and the beam shape is good for this kind of light. Meaning short range lighting for around the house (for me).

As to the chip in the optic caused by breaking it from the stem that holds sever together. It is pretty much a non-issue for me. It is not visible in the beam patter and Even when I am looking for it it is hard to see.

Just a few preliminary thoughts…

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In comparison to other tritium vials you have, or is this your first?

Photos of bright vials for “bling” are often artificially boosted by shining UV light at the tube (the phosphor reacts to UV) and/or shot with long exposure.

Tritium is kinda cool, but I don’t feel like I need more than I already have (a keychain vial).

GITD powder and UV resin can be very acceptably put into tailcap slots, I’ve done this to my reylight, the tail of the light actually catches ambient light nicely, when I come inside on a sunny day the brightly glowing tail always makes me chuckle!

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I’m curious, I’ve seen a couple people saying the trits aren’t bright. I also wonder if the people posting are familiar with tritium. I guess I’ll see in a few days, I’ve got a KR1AA with orange tritium on the way, and I’ve got a few other things with tritium vials sitting around the house. I’ll try to get a comparison photo in the dark when the light arrives.

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I have had watches that used tritium. I also have gunsights that use it. I don’t think that the one on the Ke1AA is as bright as either. I look forward to readin what others that may have more experience with a wider range of tubes have to say. I took a pic last night, but the camera makes it look much brighter than using the old eyeballs.

As mentioned, In a fully dark room, with the thing sitting on my desk I have a hard time seeing it from maybe 5-6 feet away. BTW the flashlight in the pic was a a TS10 on 5/150

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My pink trit is about as dim as ultraglow after 24 hours…maybe dimmer. It is dimmer than 1/150 on the light itself. It is dimmer than 1/150 on the d3aa. It is relatively dimmer than the north star with light pollution around. Even as dim as Mandrake’s green is, mine is dimmer by about 5 times, maybe more, lol. I’m waiting for my other pink trit tailcap. But compared to the site stock photos of the trit, mine is like 1/10 the brightness, even in pitch blackness. Maybe accidental old stock?

Ordered a pink trit in an KR1 last year and that was a waste of $10. Barely visible from 2’

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Darn, I guess I’m out $20… :frowning:

I’ll clarify even further…in the intloutdoor stock photo, there’s a reflection below the main image…that’s how dim my pink one looks.

I think when I get round to buying a new tailcap for my KR1AA this is the way I’ll go. The UV resin is so much easier to work with than mixing epoxy, and it shouldn’t degrade and yellow over time. The beads work really well with high grade powder, the sandy stuff is even better.

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Is this different than most GITD options?
I find they start too bright (depending surface area) and are invisible 8 hours later.

8 hours? Yes, very probably invisible after that long.

I did Jon, first thing I tried. It worked for a while, then became erratic, then nothing.

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seems you tried everything you could
fortunately Hank will take care of you

I’m not sure if this has to do with the KR1AA, or more so my Vapcell H10 battery…but had a scary experience last night.

I grabbed one of my freshly charged H10 batteries from the my storage box and put it in my KR1AA. It was in lockout mode. I was sitting on the couch watching tv with the dog next to me. All the sudden she kind of perked up and jumped, like she had been bit by something. I naturally adjusted myself to see what was going on and suddenly felt extreme heat coming from my pocket. Pulled the light out of my pocket and it was nearly too hot to handle. I ran to the kitchen to grab a towel and quickly remove the tailcap and battery.

How or why did this happen?? The light was in lockout mode!! This morning after it had cooled down, I placed another battery in it to make sure the light wasn’t shot and sure enough with that H10 battery the light worked just fine. I kept it in lockout mode and had it in pocket while getting ready and thankfully didn’t experience the same issue as last night.

I’m guessing this has to be from the battery, but how or why did this happen? Was it preventable on my part? I’m going to safely discard the other battery. I’m not messing with that thing again!

It’s the H10, recent batches are bad, high self discharge and risk of heating up. Vapcell discontinued them and replaced them with the K10.
If you have other H10s you bought at the same time dispose of them as well.

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@TkoK83Spy Also get in touch with whoever you bought them from, they might reimburse you for the bad cells

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Thanks guys. Very scary situation. I can’t imagine if that happened when we weren’t home, would it heat up to the point of exploding and causing a fire?? Would I lose my entire home and pets over a freaking $3 battery?? Definitely has me a bit shook.

Sorry to get off topic here, but other than the K10, what other batteries do you guys recommend for TS10’s, D3AA’s and KR1AA’s?

*Edit to add - retailer has already acknowledged the problems with these batteries and has offered me a refund or replacement at no charge for the (5) H10’s I had purchased. Now to trust Vapcell and go with the K10 or try something else!?