I run into the exact same behavior when triple blink booting on both my KR1AA’s and D3AA’s.
When you are first installing the battery, is it giving you 3 blinks at boot indicating a weak battery/connection? First off, you want 1 blink, but if your cell is low/weak or you have poor connection, you’ll get the triple blink.
If connectivity is good but you are truly booting a weak/low cell, ( < ~3.3V for 3.7 V Li-ion I believe) you’ll still get a triple blink.
When booted in this “triple blink”/”low power mode”, I believe this is an Anduril 2 bug you’re currently experiencing that has yet to be fixed.
I’d like to say that the manual memory timer is not on by default but my first action with a new Anduril light is to do a factory reset. I think the default behaviour is automatic memory, but that shouldn’t result in the light refusing to ramp down when you ask it to.
**this next part is speculation, but it might be that “automatic last used” unintentionally becomes its own temporary floor if you double clicked to get to it before shutting off. I had a similar issue and addressed it by setting a manual memory, then turning off the manual timer, which, in hybrid mode, effectively disabled the automatic mode.
Didn’t try that but changing the battery a few times it sorted itself out. I was going to try the tightening the tailcap and just looseningv from the top but it appears mines glued and here I thought Hank stopped doing this on the KR1AA lights without having to ask him not to glue it…
This is not accurate, manual memory and hybrid memory are not the same. I use manual memory on all my Anduril lights, they all come on in level 3 no matter what the previous-used setting was.
It becomes hybrid memory only if you set a manual memory timer.
My silver v3 came with auto memory enabled by default. I wouldn’t have recommended my methodology unless it somehow worked for me. Never had a triple blink battery issue with it. I spent the better part of 10 minutes trying to figure out why the light didn’t want to ramp down if I shut it off after a 2c to ceiling/turbo, and the problem went away after I disabled the manual timer. (Also, I use ramp mode, not stepped mode, not sure what level 3 would be.)
**in summary, manual 10c memory set to around 30 lumens. Initial off then on returned to that mode. Ramping to ceiling, then off and on retained ceiling, but allowed ramp down. 2c to ceiling then off and on returned to ceiling, but could not ramp down, had to off and 1h for moonlight to regain rampability. Disabled manual memory, and can ramp from any standard mode, and 1C always starts in 30lm manual memory 10C setting.
From my experience and understanding, “automatic memory” is always on by default. If you “add” a 10c memory, the firing sequence becomes hybrid, so automatic takes precedence, then whatever the factory timer is for “off” to revert to manual memory. If you disable the timer, then T=0m, and if T=0m, then the automatic timer is bypassed directly to manual mode, effectively disabling automatic memory, and changing the hybrid timer to 0.
Mine never triple blinked when my light was not ramping down. I did see a single blink when I was swapping batteries though which I’ve never seen happen with any other Hank light. Is this normal?
The older firmware usually blinks the moment contact is closed, so it’s possible that your hand may have been obstructing the view as you tighten the threads…I believe TK added a slight detection delay to remedy the potential “intermittent initial contact” issue, so you’d have time to catch the blinkies
**Let me try to get a couple vids for reference
Single blink is good, 3 blinks means low detection
Just received a new D3AA in polished silver and swapped in the Duracell AA that was having the ramping down issue in the KR1AA and it didn’t triple blink or have the ramping down issue in either stepped or smooth ramping mode. So it’s still a mystery. Maybe tailcap wasn’t tightened enough? Still upset the head is glued as I’d prefer to only change the battery from the top tube eliminating the plastic insert from sliding out the tailcap.
It’s not still a mystery, TK confirmed the issue on comment #47. It’s is an unfixed bug that only occurs when the light boots into “triple blink” mode on both the KR1AA and D3AA.
I think you should checkout the Anduril 2 readme on the driver behavior at boot. It’s very likely you aren’t experiencing the error on the D3AA because it’s booting into full power mode (one blink). Only when the light is booted into the limited power, triple blink mode does the bug occur.
99% sure you simply missed the triple blink at boot when you were experiencing the bug. Both the D3AA/KR1AA boot quickly without much delay on the non-KR1AA specific build. Now that you are successfully booting with a single blink, you shouldn’t run into the bug.
If you prove me otherwise, I’ll eat my words.
Just as a side note - it’s not just a weak cell that can trigger triple blink boots - connectivity/how the light closes matters, esp. the KR1AA.
Anecdotally, just this week I was running into an issue with one KR1AA V2.5 consistently triple blinking at boot with the same 1.5V battery (~1.34V) that a D3AA and another KR1AA V1 would boot without issue with one blink. Oddly enough, the KR1AA V2.5 in question had no issues booting 3.7V Li-ion, just ~1.5V cells.
Only until I took apart and cleaned the tail body threads, tailcap threads, cleaned contact points, & re-lubed o rings could I get the KR1AA V2.5 to boot properly with the 1.5V cell.
considering that both of us seem to have addressed our respective issues, I doubt that either of us would be inclined to perform the inconvenience of a factory reset (again) just to prove you wrong.
