Kryptonite crypt?
is there in truth no beauty?
Looks like this Hot Plate
No worries. A minus-green filter will keep you from going crazy.
Bobvoeh, youâre going to love that little gizmo. I got one a few months ago and itâs awesome. My only complaint is that the silicone cable (pretty nifty) has intermittent connection issues on one end, so I ditched it and am using a normal one. Makes reflows a breeze.
No, but good guess. Perfect color for it.
Yes, exactly. MHP30 reflow hotplate.
I have noticed that the USB-C cable that it came with really takes a good push to get it seated properly. I was able to power it up and do a test heat up. Connected it to the PC and can access the config file and updated the firmware to latest 2.06.
I was so surprised at how small it is, kind of like my same reaction when I got my Emisar DT8. These things look much bigger in pictures on the internet (queue the laughs).
Me tooâŚI knew it was small but I was still surprised. I wouldnât mind one that was just a tad largerâŚI donât think theyâll follow through but there was a hint that one day they could do accessory plates in different sizes/shapes. Whatâs in the new firmwareâŚis it worth fooling with?
Also, I didnât know silicone cables like that even existed. Quite impressive really.
I got this transaxle yesterday. Itâs for an old Craftsman mower . Actually, thatâs the old broken one . The new one is already in and working fine !
Iâve looked at those. Very tempted. 30mm sure is small. I would like it better at 50mm square. But then perhaps the heater the larger plate would cool faster than desired and the heater appears to be at the max watts for a PD supply. ??? Iâve cut out little 30mm x 30mm squares of wood to help me puzzle it out. I keep thinking of the multiple emmitter mcpcbâs Iâve used that are in the 34 â38mm size. Probably overthinking the decision
30 x 30mm is 1 1/8â squared. Most probably can transfer the heat to a 34 - 36mm MCPCB (just a few mm overhang). But the design is the eye-catcher. On Ali there are more substantial heaters at a better price (~$72 USD).
Link in pic
Here are the notes from the download page:
2021.11.01:
MHP30 Mini Hot Plate Preheater APP V2.06 : download
- Modify the U disk parameter prompt
- Modify resistance measurement delay time
- Fixed the reverse of the foreground and background colors of the boot DIY Logo
- Shorten startup time
- Fix resistance data detection hysteresis problem
- Fixed the problem that negative numbers cannot be displayed when heating
- Fix array comparison function BUG
- Optimize ID chip read and write
- Increase the total duration of recording heating
- Add a hidden interface to view the total heating time information of the heating end
- Fixed the bug that dumping can also heat up
- Add heating end type library
- Fix the bug of identifying the type of hot end
- Limit the output power of the power supply to a maximum of 95%
But the emitters are still right on the hotplate surface, unless you have some odd type where they are on the circumference. I think it would still work fineâŚcould bump the temp if need be. I think with most emitters it would also be fine to reflow, cool, and reposition the board for another reflow (not sure I would want that with UV an other sensitive emitters), the same way they do with tv light strips and such, and the folks that use these for daughterboard chips and such. It might also work to craft an accessory plate to rest on top (maybe with a small pocket milled out to ensure it doesnât slide off)âŚmaybe not as efficient but this thing has enough temp range to accommodate that I think.
I think Iâll give it a shotâŚseems worthwhile enough. Curious about that power limitation, thoughâŚwonder if theyâve had some issues with the wall warts. I got their power supply with mine because it ended up being the cheapest route for something in the 65W range. Seems well built, doesnât get hot in use so far. Thanks for the info!
I got the one with the power supply as well as the only PD charger I have is for my Pixel 5, which does not put out enough power. I felt like an idiot trying to figure out how to get the Euro adapter off. I agree with the heat, the lower part of the unit where the buttons and display are really does not get warm, but it sure does take a bit for the plate to cool off.
Ha!! Me, tooâŚ.when the adapter finally cracked away I thought Iâd broken the charger. It didnât come off the way I expected it to. Neat deviceâŚone of the top-ten satisfaction purchases Iâve made. My other methods were fine, and I considered a normal lab or electronics hotplate for awhile, but I really like the ramping profile that this offers without having to pay big bucks for thatâŚ.and it takes up very little room in the chest.
he took the advice:
Ordered a low profile clip from Thyrm.
Itâs a bit pricey for my wallet (considering itâs âjustâ a plastic clip) but I canât resist to buy one.
Itâs really better to store as beans, the flavor more naturally locked in. When I buy beans, I grind up in batches (about 10oz ~ 12oz) that last about 5 days. I did my own taste test of day 1 to day 5 and really couldnât pick up a difference. Another factor is the grinder. Blade grinders are âmeh.â Burr is the way to go. Itâs not a dramatic difference, but I can pick up on it.
But yeah, like LightBringer said, if you want to store coffee for 3 years, freeze dried is the way. Nice solid brick.
I got a portable grinder, and I basically powderise it. French press after, so lots of silt still sneaks up through the screen.
Hate that âgremoâ (probably Italian for âgrimeâ), that brown silty foam that still sneaks through. But if I let it settle, a lotta that silt sinks to the bottom.
LB; youâre basically indiscriminate in your grind. Finer grains are akin to Turkish vs. the French with larger grains.
Portable would be hand ground? Too much swirlinâ. Or try the nylon meshed pistons â finer.
Edit: My bad, the grains pass around the âspringâ. Someone should redesign that.