No it is not the same gas in every gas station in Europe.
For example in the Northern countries they mix the gas differently depending on the season because of the colder winter months.
And i think they have generally more ethanol mixed in year around also.
But you have most likely right about an possible above average sense of smell
I didnāt consider that because for me that is normal, but i remember i asked my Father some time after the mod, if he could smell the gas stank on the modded light with the gas dedomed led+mcpcb & he couldnāt sense it, but to me it smelled so strongly the light & air around the shelf i had the light on reeked of gas for weeks before it subsided.
And i havenāt read any other complaints about stinky dedomes here at BLF.
1-propanol and ethanol are fairly similar as the hydroxy group is at the end of the carbon chain, but isopropanol's hydroxy group is on the center carbon atom. Being flanked on both sides by CH3 groups makes it less polar (less water-like), so I think a better solvent for long chain hydrocarbons in gasoline.
I see RMM got in hosts with aluminium pills? The one I ordered had a brass pill and according to the OP the host should have a brass pill? Why is this? I prefer the aluminium pill, so, should I order the complete light from GB to be ensured of an aluminium pill?
Need some info to build this hot rod FTT thrower using the 2 cell body, I need to know what is the recommended driver and LED? (led needs to be pre-mounted)
If there is not a suitable driver for 2-cell Iād be ok with using one dummy battery (dummy 18650 in a 26650 adapter tube) I like the longer body to hold.
Since thereās not a 2 cell host option so Iād have to buy the complete 1405 light and rebuild it. Would a brass or copper pill be required for the high current? Is that available for the 1405?
Thanks, yes Mountain has it, I was surprised when found it there last night, I may get the host there since Iāll most likely be getting other things too.
I see there are three different MTN-MAX, (two versions of 17mm & one version 22mm). so Iāll have to see which one I would need, looks like these all will work with 2 cells?
For the LED, I want to have a throw light way better than any I have now (HD2010 & BST) I read somewhere here that (if built right) these can get up to 400kcd, and even stock around 70kcd.
I believe the HD2010 and BST are only around 40-60kcd. I also have a Small Sun ZY-T13 un-modded but it can throw pretty far too.
Iām not trying to get the maximum kcd, for this Iād be happy if its just a lot more than my current lights, even 200kcd is 3 times more than anything I have now. (the aspheric when zoomed out does most of the job for long throw?)
Since it does have the FTT feature Iām thinking Iād want a LED with good throw capability plus maximum LUX output so it would have a nice un-zoomed output to also make good use of that feature too.
Use the 17mm MTN-MAX at 5-5.5A on a dedomed XP-L. If the tint you want isnāt available in the XP-L, do the MTN-MAX at 4.5A to a dedomed XM-L2 in your favorite tint. If you choose a T6 bin XM-L2 you can use the MTN-MAX at 5.5A, the newer bins will burn the bond wires at that current.
With a dedomed XP-G2 driven hard these lights are almost like a laser beam at full focus. Sometimes I shine it up in the sky and people drive up my street looking for the seasonal Halloween attraction...
Thanks for that info, I wonder if the XPL HI will have a bit more throw than regular XPL or XML2, and if XPL HI would have a lot more brightness/spill when zoomed in? Has anyone tried XPL HI in one of theirs?
An XP-L HI will not be as high a kcd as a dedomed XP-L but itās pretty close and doesnāt require dedoming. If you donāt feel up for a dedome get the XP-L HI.
I believe Richards 1405ās come with the retaining ring for the MCPCB, but Iād skip it and use Arctic Silver thermal adhesive. The ring causes reflection issues and requires a plastic centering ring to prevent it from shorting against the wires.
On the switch it depends who you ask. I tested 3 at 9A for over an hour and all were fine with decently low voltage drop. At 5.5A with a buck driver the switch should never see more than 4A.
That could be it.
