XR-E2? Did Cree issued a new version of XR series? I did not know about that...
Sorry that was a typo, I meant XP-E2…
Upon unpacking the 1504 a rattling sound was clear.
At first, my thought was that noise was the battery tube,
or a loose lens, but upon investigation is became clear
that the Al pill was ratting.
The pill twists around and perhaps it should, but am not sure if
it is normal for the pill to move up and down. The resulting noise
is not loud by any measure, but it is unsettling.
There is also a small bubble on the lens periphery.
Should the Aluminum pill be twisting around and moving up
and down or should it remain fixed and stationary?
Thank-you for considering my questions,
The pill should not be loose. You can remove the lens and tighten it back up (it is LH or reverse threaded).
The biggest issue that i met with those lights( speaking on the whole UF zoom series) BOUGHT AND SHIPPED from Gearbest is that 30% of them came with damaged lenses
And i ordered alot…ofc i mailed several times, PMed GB representive here with the idea to pack those flashlights better( as you know they ship items with their box and nothing else): the result is no result
They ship, items came damaged (and respectively they pay 50% items price for that) then i buy aditional lences from Ali, annoying indeed
Hey RMM, thank you! Really!
Rookies like me need a boost and your reply -
is greatly appreciated.
johnnie
Mitko,
My light came in a wrinkled, crushed box which was wrapped
in a thin plastic. Clearly, the packed went through heck.
Thank goodness the bubble on the lens is along the periphery
with the 0-ring underneath it - so the consequences (should be)
nominal.
More to the point, your issues with Gearbest were resolved
with a 50% monetary return, is that their standard or was
this your request?
Also, would appreciate a link to “Ali.” Do you recommend
them for parts? Do they ship in a more secure manner?
Thank-you,
johnnie
Yeah, i usualy dont have problems with GB refunds( maybe cause of my order levels) but its annoying, i dont wanna refunds- i want to recieve non damaged items
I `ve found this Ali store: it ships lenses packed as they will travel to Moon: lotsa bubble bags( each lens is individualy packed), hard travel box and free trackig number too
In my humble practice with this flashlight their fake switch is weakest point :( ... Sometimes it locks itself in one point with rubber tail cap so I got to turn ccw tailcap in order to pop omten switch out again. Really strange....
While some of them acts good it is really advisable to change them with kan-28. Kan 28 is firmer made switch than UF one. UF one looks flimsy and rattles.
I suspect you’ve applied a good amount of silicone grease to the o-ring/threads?
Does it only stick when zoomed out to spot? Does twisting the head back into flood allow the switch to work?
If the answers are yes, then remove some of the silicone grease from the threads and o-ring. It’s creating a vacuum.
You could be right about vacuum :) I have never thought about that.
I use CLP Breakfree on guns and flashlights. It is o ring friendly and has very smooth action.
So sometimes(not all the time) when I tighten the switch and after I press that silicone rubber switch button it locks switch into one point and you can't press it until I unscrew switch again; in that action it pops back again.
But this not happens after swapping with kan-28. Only with certain UF switches. I know you have them KKW so if you watch them closely UF omten is more fragile with more rattling and moving over original Kan-28.
My guess is that the replacement switches don’t put as much pressure on the switch boot, allowing it to act a bit like a vent.
I don’t know how Brinyte gets the B158 to be waterproof and not have that switch problem, but it’s the only one I know of that doesn’t have switch problems without some way for air to vent when the head moves.
My solution is to screw on the tail cap with the zoom extended, that way no vacuum is created. It is nice to have a zoomie that is at least water resistant.
That only seems to work for me about 50% of the time. Inevitably if it sits in flood for a while it seems to come back.
B158 has forward clicky switch which is a bit taller than UF series so it should have longer walk and firmer spring.
BTW did you noticed that you can easy turn on UF series of flashlight without any audiable click sound with twist to turn move? Just 1 or 2 mm is enough for lock out mode and to make twist to turn action.
To bad you don't have UF1503 sou you could try B158 lenses into them :)
1503 isnt that bad btw, i like it, i got steady 180-200k with a dedomed XPL/DD driver, havent tested it with XPG2 yet cause i/ppl like it that way anyway
Some of those ( 1503 ) unfortunately came with kinda bad lences but the store mentioned above sells pretty nice 49mm ones quite cheap
Yes, 1503 is more lens lottery than 1504. From 240-280kcd possible.
Why XPL? It cant throw like XPG2. I have XPG2 dedomed with precoolimator lenses and die size is like XPL dedomed(maybe even little larger).
Yes! I’m overloaded right now, and a pill made of copper for these turned as good as practical CNCing does, I do need. But! Not a stock copy. Thicker base plate, 20mm MCPCB area, TWO M2.5 screws holding MCPCB down (screws not needed just tap for M2 or M2.5, 0.5 or 0.6mm pitch). Push MCPCB up to location original front plane of pill is. This puts the emitter too close to focus w/ stock lens. For $10 (what I pay) I have coated and mounted aspheric-meniscus lenses that make up for lost gap with optical powber. Efficiency goes up of the optical system, a G2 disperses about 20% to 30% more lumens out the front. The front plane allows reflective apertures or similar to what you guys call waven (dog) collars to be used which I have a bunch of. :bigsmile:
With that pill and collar the lights can be built out to over 750-800kcd, easily. All zooming lights have a problem that is huge, discontinuity. Heat passage cannot travel far. Copper mass solves this.
I use a completely different lens in the 1504, a 61mm, without collar and with coated condenser lens 525kcd can be reached at 5A current. At 5.5-6A over 550kcd-575kcd area (G2, LED batch dependant).
Yes I can make a drawing. I can bore my own holes in the pill, and yes flat on top. That pretty much describes it all. Just like factory but front bored section is solid and smooth from center to edge.
A “deck” pill.
The 1503 am interested in same.
You can edit my one:
Left half is your suggestions with angled holes. Right half is my variant, it can be made for 17mm driver and 16mm PCB, or for 20mm driver (17mm driver with this http://intl-outdoor.com/17mm-to-20mm-brass-ring-driver-adapter-2pcs-p-804.html).
I believe in your opportunities but if you want interesting price we need to find at least 9 more people that will be interested in one (specialy in lathering) design. I don`t think everyone want to drill holes and make m2 tread by themselfs, it is better to make such pill that won`t need this things.
Let`s try 1504/1405 for the beginning.