What about the driver? Is it easy to mod?
can't wait to try!!!
I have not tried to dismantle the driver. I like it and see no reason to try.
not sure if things would work with the S30R II
I’ve just received my Olight S30 and tried to unscrew the bezel…
I had to use an old bike inner tube and some brute force to succeed.
swapped my grey S30 Ti led with a 6A1 80CRI, worked well , no surprises. The board is a DTP board btw (electrical continuity from thermal pad to core).
Nice that these are DTP, is that 6A1 from int-Outdoor from long ago as I haven’t seen any available as of late?
Yep. Stiff but not that hard to open.
Yes, it is from intl-outdoor, bought long ago, and it was my last one :-( . I still regularly check them for new 80CRI XM-L2's but no luck lately. I still have a few 80CRI XP-L's, so I will have to start using them instead for modding lights with XM-L2's, but they need a non-stock led-centering thingy, which is a hassle.
Cool thanks djozz, I have 6A1’s cousin the 5D2 tinted XML2 in one of my lights but that 6A1 is an awesome bin.
Sorry for the off topic question but since the S30 has direct copper board, does its little brother the S1 have direct copper board too?
I'm not sure but since recently all major flashlight manufacturers come out with small flashlights with high output, I suspect that it is 1)a sign that they finally embraced the superior DTP copper board, and 2)a pity that our single li-ion hotrod lights are not that far ahead of stock lights anymore :-(
I have an S30 on the way from BG, and got in a S15. The S15 looks completely moddable (https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/23323).
How did you do that ? Is the emitter board glued ?
+1 - I think they are also using the new high bins, though almost all of them don't list what bin they use... I swapped LED's in two CooYoo's - one with a 4000K 219C and the other with a 5000K 219C and was a bit surprised measured output went down. The stock LED's are XP-G2 cool white but no idea of the bin. I know my cheap meter may measure cool whites higher - that might explain some if it, not sure.
Ok so I just saw on the other forum a popular modder selling the S1 modded and it’s extra to have LED mounted on copper board so I guess that means the S1 doesn’t have copper to begin with.
Maybe the bigger thicker new S10 and S30 have the copper boards but the smaller slimmer S1 and S2 don’t? Just speculating…
Just got my S30 today. Can't budge the bezel, even with my rubber textured gloves, with which I can get pretty decent force on it. I measured closer to 900, not 1000 lumens as rated, but I used a 18650. The rating is using 2 CR123A cells - tricky ratings...
Not sure what to try next on the bezel... ?
Update: tried more, finally got movement - was pretty tight - found out why. Looks like a little red LockTite. Here's the pics:
The gloves I use:
Ok - did more reviewing on this light, and I can only conclude (best guessing that is...):
- the screw in the pill top is only there to keep the MCPCB from spinning (the pill top is threaded itself), appears to hold nothing
- the pill top appears to be part of the body, uni-body design
- only way to get access to the driver is that there must be another threaded connection, and I kind of/sort of see where it is - right where the tube knurling ends towards the head. Based on measurements from the inside, it looks like the threaded tube tightens up against the alum retaining ring over the driver, around the driver spring
- I tried by hand/gloves to unlock the threaded connection, but no luck so far. Great timing - tomorrow before the turkey, my son-n-law can compete against my other daughter's boyfriend for the break-the-LockTite / win the "last part of the turkey over the fence" contest
- if no winner, I'll bring it into work. A guy I work with is like a body builder - gym rat, huge arms. He'll have the muscle for it for sure...
Ahh, stupid me. A review over on CPF shows a pic of the battery tube - sample light, probably before they glued it up: CPF--Olight-S30-Baton-review. Well at least it confirms where I thought the threaded connection is 
.
i am looking forward to see the driver…
I forget, did it have a glow ring?
Glow ring? Dunno what you mean.
That was Red Loctite on the bezel - Red is the most permanent of all Loctites (http://us.henkel-adhesives-blog.com/post/All-About-Threadlockers/The-Difference-Between-Red-Blue-Green-and-Purple-Threadlockers/).
If they are using Red on the tube thread connection, it's gonna be worse because of more threads, and very dependent on the amount used. Spec sheet here: http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/T_LKR_RED_tds.pdf.
It says heating to 482F and separate parts when hot. Tried a butane torch, no luck. Read here on BLF a while back about hot-cold-hot (torch-freezer-torch) can break it, but not finding anything online. Still working on it.
This is incredibly bad though - Red Loctite....