I’ll try that to unscrew the body tube from the head
EDIT : I also had red loctite on mine…
I just heated mine up with a butane torch all around that joint, avoiding the switch - got it quite hot, not sure how hot, but still didn't budge. This was after the freezer. The side switch loses it's click after heating, but came back. Not sure if it's gonna come back this time. Think the switch is a little distorted now. My hands are shot now...
I'm really dis-liking sample lights that are easily taken apart in reviews, then ones you buy are glued with the toughest thread locker known to man. I only bought this light with the intention of driver upgrading.
There's not much around in a fully moddable side switch 18650 tube light in decent quality. The SolarStorm SC02 is ok, but not a fan of the switch itself (sticks out - big clicker), and they are slightly bigger. Had luck with the UF-T18 from TinyWind, but the switch is also somewhat an issue - too hard/stiff.
I have the matt grey titanium S30 and the tube-driver joint screwed open fairly easily. The stuff in the threads was blue-ish, not red, but I think the main reason that it was so easy is that the glue does not stick as well to the titanium coating as it does on anodised aluminium. I'm completely happy with the driver, so having opened that joint is not particularly useful in my case 
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Tom, there are still the Skilhunt DS20 and DS21 (I prefer the first one). They have uni-body design just like S30 and C20C. The advantage of the DS20 is that the switch is mounted on the wall and it is easily get access to.
The S30 switch feels great, but someone else reported after running on hi for a while, it would stop clicking, then cooled, would click again. Exactly same thing I saw from heating the tube threads. It has some sort of heat related issue - dunno what could cause it.
The stock UI is pretty good, but of course I want more power, more UI flexibility as I have in my 45/85 based firmware - fully configurable in modes, lots of extras.
I've considered the DS20 - so, are you saying it can be opened, therefore fully moddable? The C20C is definitely full moddable - I got one, it's all apart right now. I just searched all over for DS20 modding and could not find anything - I'm sure it could be buried somewhere...
My DS20 is on the way to my home. I’d read from somewhere that it can be opened, it has the same tube as H02. My H02 had no glued at all. The driver’s retaining ring and side switch’s retaining ring can be unscrewed easily.
Let us know about the DS20 when it arrives. For my S30, bad news. The switch operation never recovered after a cool down - not clicking, not feeling right. I re-soldered the LED start back on to test - no longer working 
. Guess the heat killed the switch permanently, or killed the driver.
Heating the body tube joint to the head to break the Loctite? NOT RECOMMENDED
Update:
Look'n at the switch, noticed the black plastic cover was a little loose, so I was able to remove it. Underneath, a clear rubber material was there, but the switch works, light operates! Now just need something to replace the black plastic - it must have deformed somehow. The old LED/star I took out of a AAA light fits perfectly in there:
I have ordered one on gearbest but not paid, I wanted to wait to see if it is moddable…no way that I use a stock light…
@djozz what kind of driver was in it? Is it moddable for more current or does it need to be replaced…
The C20C is superior in a few ways - smaller, real nice quality, easily opened. It's look'n I can stack a 17mm driver with a little trimming on an edge to make room for the switch, or you can use the Helios Ferrero Rocher DD OSHPark driver for the F6 (https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/35641) and TK's firmware - fits perfectly, but not sure bout the switch alignment - didn't check it yet. Of course the Helios driver is great with the red and green LED's for batt status.
You could of course leverage her firmware to mod your own with the LED support.
Illumn has just a couple C20C's left for $30 - I just ordered 2, so down to 5 remaining.
I have a ti one. An alloy one came too but a friend bought it (both from Gearbest). I just wanted an LED swap. I’m happy with the UI and levels. Not perfect but certainly good enough for me.
I’d love to see more info on a c20c mod. Can I just put a trimmed Dr Jones driver in there?
I posted a pic breakdown here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/31967, last post. You could drop in a Dr Jones driver, but have to wire things up yourself for grnd, the switch, etc. Probably needs the trimming - cause vertical space is tight, otherwise you could clear the 17mm driver over the switch. Hhmm - not sure you can trim a 8*7135 driver though...
Ah I see. I don’t have the time or desire for that much work. I’ll just skip it.
Does someone reflowed an XML2 on the stock MCPCB ?
I did, a warmer 80CRI one, worked fine.
What’s under the plate ? Just thermal grease or is it glue ?
No screw ?
Did you use a hot span to reflow ?
I tried to take a look at the driver last night, but that involves desoldering the led-wires again that I was quite proud of having done that so neat. So I hope someone else in the process of modding the S30 can do that.
Btw, the driver pulled out a bit and pushed in place again did cause the switch not clicking very nice anymore, still works but the good feel is gone. So I regret having tried this 
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Sorry…
I thought you might have analysed the driver or made a photo while modding, that’s what I do in general just a snapshot with my phone in case I would like to investigate the PCB later agains…
Mine had thermal grease. Again as I said before and clearly in the picture I posted above, the screw does not secure down the MCPCB - it simply keeps the MCPCB from spinning, which can happen sometimes when tightening down a bezel, and result in cutting the LED wires.
This light is a great candidate for a new XM-L2 U3 3D that Hank is selling - high bin with what should be a nice tint. I requested the bare U3 3D's from Hank and he has them posted on his website now, as of last night 
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