Hi guys. I just bought the Warrior Mini myself and tried to put in one of my old olight batteries in it. It would not work with two different versions that I tried. Is this what they have done to these now? Is it because of the charging capabilities? I don’t see what is special about the battery that came with it, but there is obviously something.
Hi cabla! Welcome to BLF!
This flashlight won’t work (nor charge) with other regular batteries simply because the flashlight needs to have the + and - pole touchig the driver structure.
The Olight battery has both poles in the top, while other regular batteries don’t have it (+ on top and - on bottom).
The battery itself is probably special only because it has the specificities that make the flashlight work, meaning + and - on top, as mentioned.
If you pick a 16340 battery from the Olight S1R Baton 1 and touch the driver and switch the light ON, it will work for the same reason.
It is a bummer that we can’t use other batteries with the flashlight, fact!!
i made this to explain a bit (and bust some wrong info)
Thanks Martin 
Always informative
Thank you guys! This makes more sense now. I didn’t realize there were such a thing as those proprietary batteries. This kinda suck that we can’t use standard 18650 batteries but maybe there is a good reason. Maybe they are more efficient this way.
This proprietary batteries are very expencive.
As long as cell inside is Sony, Samsung or similar, I do not know why.
Does it really matter? How many batteries will you need in the lifetime of an O-light and by how much will these extra costs increase the price for it? And about 6 EUR for the S1R battery or 15 EUR for a R50 battery is not a killer imo.
If you like a certain light, get some extra batteries and store them safely to never run out of them, no matter if Olight ceases production or even folds. Did so with the R50 battery, and will get a few 10C 16340 when the S1RII reaches eol. I think I’m safe, and it didn’t cost a fortune.
I don’t think so. High CRI can lead to 30% or more loss in lumens, especially when that Zebralight emitter is a 3-step one, which may imply even more lost. Also, the frosted models from Zebralight usually deliver considerably lower output than claimed. They seem too optimistic when estimating the lost introduced by that frosted lens. For example, the H1 mode output on H600c is claimed as 1616lm, while it’s 1568lm on H600Fc, which means only ~3% lost due to the frosted lens…however the measured difference is much larger.
That Perun is most likely using a 3V version of XHP50.2 and a buck driver, and that’s much more efficient than boosting to 6V or 12V. That also explains why only cool white is available, because 3V XHP50.2’s are all cool white.
Olight has some good drivers, but the difference is not that much. The output difference is not simply because of the driver.
imho using that kind of cells "protects" their average users.... ;)
generally: most flashlight users have very little knowledge about simple mechanical and electrical basics
Ok, here we disagree. Having both contacts accessible on one side is dangerous. At least, Olight improved safety somewhat by introducing this plastic collar.
And some older models can be shortcut on the charging port. Improved, too.
to my knowledge they use circuits in their cells
and the new models even limit the current to 5 mA on the port
@toobadorz
At last, proper explanation.
Thx
Well…technically, the OWM can still be shorted, but one needs to touch the very middle of the taill button (not as easy as before) and the outer ring.
BTW, after beiung using the flashlight for some time now, I have some feedback about it:
POSITIVES
- User Interface + buttons action: this really is what I was looking for and it did not disappoint (the only thing it could have more was reversing modes while cycling, such as Anduril has)
- Knurling: provides good grip
- Beam shape: the large “hotspot” is great for night walks, and the spill is very useful. I find this hotspot to be more useful (due to less intensity in a single point) than narrow hotspot lights
NOT SO POSITIVE
- Pocket clip: not having deep carry clip from the tails is the most annoying thing about this flashlight! I did a lanyard for it, and besides helping to hold it better, it will also allow drawing it from tge pocket in a better way.
- Tint: you know…
Overall, I am happy with it
It isn’t green, is it? There’s hope: The SST-40 is available in a nicely tinted 5000K.
Hum, when walking outdoor, the Low and sometimes Medium modes seem a little “greenish”.
Not greenish as a light with a CW emitter and reflector where we can see a tint shift between different areas in the beam, though.
L and M (and ML, but I don’t use it outdoor) are eventually the most “greenish” levels. High and Turbo are just white while outdoor.
If it had a reflector, however, it would be hideous :confounded:
In my country official Olight dealer selling 21700, 5Ah Olight battery for 33 EURO with VAT.
Link
Good price, I think. :cry:
using a protected keeppower battery in olights that use button tops should work only that u cant charge it magnetic or ? i also agree that buying extra spare olight batteries are expensive compared to normal 21700 or 18650…
like this, 26$ dollars för a 21700 battery… insane…
In this light such battery it doesn’t work. The + and - poles in the head are needed to activate the light. I used a protected Panasonic NCR18650, button top and it didn’t turn ON.
So, it takes only the “special” cells with + and - on top.
In the M2R Warrior (normal) it does work, though!
Didn’t knew this. Yes, an excellent price it is :confounded:
Can’t understand why some proprietary Olight-batteries are inexpensive while this one is insanely expensive.
the new lights have batteries with both - and + at top when charging with the magentic cables… but if your old batteries are protected and have button tops it should work tho, but wont charge with the external magneetic just and normal flat tops batteries wont make contact because too short…