Oh yea years ago, the good news is hosts are pretty easy to find, all you need is the metal parts, no factory electronics are retained.
Umm, no. The boost effect is certainly still present. This will be easy to verify with a scope, probably easy to verify with a DMM. Whether it will bother the PIC or not I have no idea.
I haven’t been present for the discussion about the drivers that had this issue, can anyone explain where the inductance is coming from? This effect can’t happen without inductive storage somewhere, where could there be significant amount of that in a direct-drive light like this?
It’s a voltage spike that occurs in the single cell FET versions.
It's also present in a stock 105C using 7135s, though the spike isn't as severe so the boosted voltage on Vcc doesn't rise to the point the driver misbehaves.
The inductance appears to be in the wires that go to the LED. Please refer to dave_’s posts in this thread. EDIT: note that it’s probably a pretty tiny amount of stored energy. The MCU is drawing very little current and there isn’t much else on that side of the diode to pull the voltage down.
Per request from a fellow BLF member
Small Sun ZY-T08 30mm contact plate
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/18VLwYXb
2 layer board of 1.19x1.19 inches (30x30mm). $7.00 for three
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Bottom
Top and bottom are pretty much identical…the notches should be milled off for removal cutouts
In case anyone wanted to use this contact plate and a different driver piggybacked to mod their Small Sun ZY-T08
What is the width of those notches? Oshpark’s milling bit is 2.54mm.
.1
I suppose they will just go with the smallest bit available…every other board I have upped to them has .1 milling layer and they cut them out just fine
2.54mm is freeking HUGE
Recommendations? Or will they even route them out?
I don’t mean the width of the milling line. If you overlay a circle over those two notches, what diameter would it be?
Oshpark uses a 2.54mm milling bit, if your notches are smaller, they will not be cut out. A 2.54mm (radius 1.27) bit needs to be able to fit into the notch.
I kinda figured they wouldn’t be…I informed the guy I made them for he may have to dremel/cut the notches out
Would a drill or hole centered on the milling layer be better?
You can use a hole.
It can not be centered on the milling line / board outline. It must be inside. I’ve never tested the limit for how close to on-the-line it (center of the drill hit) can be. Personally I’ve only done drills where 1/3 overlaps the board outline but I’ve seen others do what looks to be half overlap. So you should be able to get close.
A throughhole should work. I did some smaller throughholes in the middle(not sure if it was the total center I just placed it freehand) of the outer milling and I got half circles. But I would say that the milling you choosed should work too, if someone’s orders it I would be curious to see the result.
I perrsonally just stripped the stock board anyway so I won’t be ordering it.
Specifically a drill hit (or a via), not a hole. There is a tool for adding drill hits, like the via tool. That diameter drill hit is fine. Overlapping drill hits are not fine, but it has been mentioned that milling operations can go through vias. The same almost certainly applies to drill hits, I think that they are done before the milling. Vias are done much earlier than the milling.
What you should not do is to just put a dot in the milling layer and think of it as a drill hit. I don’t know what got into me, but I did that recently (even though I knew better) on those adapter rings with the mandrel hole in the middle… it was supposed to be a drill hit and I just had a filled circle in the milling layer.
OK, that seems to have worked…1.5mm hole, wait one…updating the board on OSHPark
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Files
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fgc7doybgpktzf4/AAAyLbQx48M4r5w5s5qHj_jBa
3D render
OSHPark permalink
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/CZg9gJdi
Drill center mark just a hair inside the milling layer outline
Hi all,
I ordered the version before this latest one.
I have since deleted that project, which i paid for, and I was wondering if they will credit me for that job and use the credit if i order the latest one?
If I click on the new one, it seems I must pay again…
Haven’t really ordered from Oshpark before, apart from yesterday, and now this order….
Thanks
Seems it has automatically updated, the new one is now in my projects…. 
If you intend to cancel the order you’ve already placed you must email them immediately. The “project” is unrelated to the order.
Thanks, mail sent.
Cheers
Sorry or the confusion Flitsmal
OSHPark will hook you up…up until they send the panel to fab they should be able to change it
One of the [way to many] projects I have is a 9A 7135 based ZY-T08 driver. Tho they all do fit flat on one side I wanted it to be 3D so it’s got 2 boards, one of them is a half circle and stands up on the 31mm board with 7135’s on it.
WH can you email me your file for that contact plate?