Yes, but with plenty of assistance and excedrin.
Also a PM and a request for the .brd and .sch file might be appropriate
I believe most of the stuff here is now “open source” under the CC3.0 scheme (some might have proprietary and or commercial aspects to their builds so ask them first) but for the most part here we try to share what we can
I’m really liking the service/quality from gojgo.com They can take Eagle .BRD files and for larger boards and/or quantities their price can be 1/10 of OSHPARK. You can also get the boards back faster than OSHPARK… with their standard service and DHL express shipping I get boards from them in 8 days. You can pay them a bit more and shave a couple of days off of that.
Oh, and Gold Phoenix does MCPCBs for an almost reasonable price… a couple bucks per square inch for aluminum boards if you buy 155 sq inches.
Ahh, thanks! I did a search as I guessed there might be something like this here but my search results didn’t pick it up. I have to get better at searching…
I’ll probably end up doing that, at least asking for an early stage that I can make the changes I want, but I’ll be going through Mattaus tutorial first. It should keep my busy for a while.
If anyone has used and knows how to populate the BLF17DD-Zener Rev 2 (https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/bXpxvUdO) please help us out over here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/27210 - the discussion thread. Thanks!!
It looks like the design has not been updated to eliminate the unnecessary resistors. If so, any chance it can be updated?
I can try have a look at what revision I have. CK did final revisions on a lot of the boards but the 17DD-Z might have been missed.
Ok - let us know. "Bucket" is trying to figure it out. I don't have any experience with them, but I would have thought they were in use by a lot of guys - dunno...
The last set-up I had on these was with 5 resistors. I had been using a 10,000 on the R5 but Richard told me recently it wasn’t needed, so this is how I’ve done my last ones…
R1: 200 ohm
R2: 19.1K
R3: 4.7K
R4: 100 ohm
R5: empty
I thought the 100 or 130 ohm was obsolete? Thought we were just bridging that spot? Maybe that's if you position the cap between batt+ and ground? That's what I just did on a BLF22DD today that also had to the old resistor pads (old layout) - worked out great in a Paisen F13 style light. 6A on a KK 26700 is pretty awesome, using a XM-L2 T6 4D 
.
Frankly, with my memory lately, I’m kind of confused with the variations on the BLF boards. I tried an off-time memory driver and had issues, Richard got me straight on that but of course everything is an issue over here these days. The BLF17DD Z that I built for the X6 has the 5 resistor locations, but I left off the 5th one and used the 4th one and it works fine.
The last driver (BLF17DD V2.0) I tried to set up for a new light coming in and found I’d put the 200 ohm resistor at the diode location, but no Zener…was setting it up for a triple. Clueless what I was thinking when I did that… this driver was already built and in my kit, don’t remember when I built it or what I was aiming for. Sucks, having no memory. I THINK it was my first attempt at the X6 MT-G2 build and when the off-time didn’t work I started over with a different board. Not sure though.
If I don’t build anything for a while, which I haven’t really here lately, I forget all the details such as which resistors go where. And then I play hob finding information on all this on these boards. It’d be nice if the OSHPark link had the component list along with it like it did at first.
I got the triple working on the bench, with it sitting on an aluminum spacer, and intended to hot de-dome it with the spacer and star clamped in my vice. (A plastic Black and Decker) The XP-L popped off the Noctigon and went flying! Seems the triple in Turbo from an Efest red 2200mAh cell re-flowed the emitters! Eeeek! First time that’s ever happened, but I’ve never ran one outside of a host before either. Always a learning curve over here, keeps things interesting…
I hear you Dale - I've been writing everything down in a notebook, and taking pics of every mod. Also I got a label maker for identifying parts. I think all would be lost if I had no records...
You should label the label maker before you forget what it is…
I think only the voltage ladder resistors are actually needed and the capacitor was moved(or another added) to fix the voltage spike problem. Check the non Zener DD boards, it should just be like one of them with the Zener mod added.
Actually I was able to find the labelmaker (amazingly), but not the wallpack to charge the damn thing. Went dead on me yesterday. Got to find a 12v 0.5 A wallpack now with a connector that will fit, or rig up one myself - ugh....
I use one of those buck modules
I lost the 12vdc wall wart for my external 2TB backup full size drive, use this with a 3.5mm spade plug to run it…using an old 19vdc 7A laptop powersupply that I had laying around…works like a champ…set it for 12vdc, hooked the output clips together and dialed down max amps out to 2A, when running the drive, it uses approx 500mA and runs great
Plus since it’s adjustable I use it to charge 12vdc lead acid batteries, set for 13.4vdc (float voltage) and it can sit forever like that, and 5vdc for charging my sons old tablet he has one that he got free, the charge port (not a micro usb) was damaged, so I just soldered tails to it, he just sets it for 5vdc and hooks the little clips I put on the output wires and charges his, and charge my portable jump start w/ compressor, radio, 400 watt modified sine wave inverter deal as well (set to 14.1vdc, watch as current draw drops, when it gets to approx .25ma I consider it “fully charged” and then set back to the 13.4vdc float volts) [all of these use a fried wall wart cable I cut off and use the cord to plug into the device, just must ENSURE what the input voltage/current is BEFORE you plug in to charge/run the device)
These little things work GREAT as variable voltage wall warts, can be multiple output volts, and has a volts/amps display built in, the smaller cheaper ones don’t have them but a multimeter and it works just as well
Just came across this ATtiny13 programming board, uses an overlay to center the chip below it
Would need to tweak it…he has kicad build not eagle though
More or less a PCB based ZIF socket
This could also be adapted to PIC chips as well
P.S. I invited the gentleman to the forum…can’t hurt to have such ingenious coders around 
I wonder if these are stackable like the 7135’s
http://www.hqew.net/product-data/PT4115/
http://circuit-diagram.hqew.net/White-LED-Driver-Based-on-PT4115_13586.html
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That 4115 is used on most of the 12v AC/DC drivers. see: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/19748
Not long after that I switched to using the LM2596 boards.
I found a wall pack from a 4 9v cell charger (http://www.batteryjunction.com/ipowerus-9v-charger.html) that is 12V 1.0A with a connector that match's the Dymo LabelMaker, but + and - are reversed. The Dymo is the odd case - so I cut the wire cord and patched them switched - worked great! They bought this @work, but decided to go with another Li-Ion cell format, so the charger and cells became expendable.