That’s for the original driver, not for wights single sided boards
That one works to replace the 70N02 but the newer drivers take a different footprint altogether so it depends on which driver you’re building.
There are lots of different ones that will work. What you are really looking for is a low gate charge and low on resistance at 4.5v, which gives some indication as to how it will perform in our applications with relatively low gate charges. I am using the IRFR3711ZTRPBF FET now.
Obviously buying in bulk from Mouser or Digikey will net you a better price than buying from me. If you are going to build a lot of drivers, that's what I'd recommend doing.
And here I was recommending AOD510 in another thread just today. Oh well. (I don’t think Mouser carries any AOD brand products.) I really don’t have any other DPAK sized FETs in mind, having switched to LFPAK56 & similar for my own designs. Pilotdog68’s suggestion of IRFR3711ZTRPBF is probably the best bet for those BLFxxDD drivers which use DPAK. RMM has them and they are also in stock at Mouser.
When you say newer drivers, you are talking ones like the single sided driver from wight, right?
RMM also has some in the pipeline: Post #3441. Other than his new drivers I think mine are the only ones currently using LFPAK56.
Just hit the wire
http://www.fasttech.com/p/2056803
$2.79
ZIF SOP8 to DIP8 module…drop the ATtiny13 into this and program before putting on the board
Offhand I say that it appears to be of slightly higher quality (plastic molding / PCB / soldering) than the bottom dollar ones.
EDIT: oops, WarHawk-AVG this is the 208mil version! We use 150mil.
ah poopy!
Thanks to all here who shared their experience and knowledge. I just want to tell with pride and joy that I got my first humble driver up and running.
Special credit with this goes to member wight, who provided invaluable information and took the time to help me through several obstacles in Eagle. I think it is fair to say that without his help this driver would never have seen the light of day. So again, thank you, Alex.
It’s basically wight’s 22mm 16x7135 driver, stripped down to 12x7135 to gain space for a larger spring pad and larger cable holes and pads, more space around the MCU for the clamp, while slightly reducing the diameter of the 7135s, so it can be filed down to fit even 21mm.
Picture shows the first 3 samples, I made a 24mm variante with a guiding ring for filing, as I needed a larger size for my test lights. Left is a fully transferred Nanjg 105c plus OTC, soldered with iron. Middle is a 12x7135, soldered with my new heat air blow gun thingy (Youyue858D+). Right is a 7x7135 with Zener Mod for an Ultrafire F10 with MT-G2.
They all work! It’s been like Christmas.
As these were a test run, I was pretty happy. But I already reworked the design, as I first went with 0603 components which are very difficult to handle. Will be 0805 now. In addition I improved some more like current paths, the position of components, the size of the text. Still in transit from OSHpark, but already obsolete… need to be tweaked for multiple PWM channels.
This is truly fun to play with. 
Awesome! Welcome to the fray 
Great job!
Nice effort. 
Good stuff! I know the feeling when you fire up your first board with your own design and it works
Looking good.
This board should be useful for testing and programming the "tiny" attiny13a (MMU). It is labeled with USBAsp pins for easy hookup (I always mix up at least one pin every time I wire up a new programming clip! 
)
Nice board RMM…thanks!
[untested] 12.2mm Shutter Switch button board v005
For use converting SRK or similar from 1-stage button to 2-stage button. Inspired by Helios’s Tact switch (button) board 12.2mm round v2 found in the OP.
All this 1-stage switch stuff is for the birds, right?
- Copied the 10mm and 11mm rings and 12.2mm OD from Helios’s design. I don’t know why those values were chosen and I didn’t measure any of my lights.
- I used the exact footprint recommended in the datasheet for this switch.
- Operation 1 and Operation 2 are marked by Stage 1 and Stage 2 to get closer to common parlance.
- All copper and vias on the bottom layer fits w/in a 6mm diameter circle (with a margin).
- Intended for use with this button: http://industrial.panasonic.com/www-data/pdf/ATK0000/ATK0000CE43.pdf
- EVP-AXBA1A @ Mouser The switch is a little pricey, but what can you do?
v005 @ OSH Park
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/P1GnvS2a
What is the stage 1/stage 2 for?
It’s a shutter switch. Like in a camera.
You press it halfway and it closes Stage 1 with the long horizontal strip (GND). You press it the rest of the way (harder) and it closes Stage 2 with the long horizontal strip (GND). This allows for more complex UI behavior. Some mid to high end lights have this type of switch. I think Nitecore uses a switch of that type for some things (such as the EA4).
It requires 3 wires, GND, SW1, and SW2. Typical use would be with 2x pins on the MCU, although there are hacks to allow for less pin usage.
EDIT: I’m not sure that this thing is actually useful, and I don’t have any of the switches yet. I’ll get a couple on my next Mouser order.
Oops. This double-action switch is a lot less expensive:
ALPS SKSMAFE010
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ALPS/SKRNPME010/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsqIr59i2oRchLk7FYgnUpFPhAcyn%2Fs610%3D
It’s also got a bit lower operating force though, for both stages. EDIT: and a TON more travel. Hmm. Might have to get both. The ALPS part has a totally different pinout, requires a new PCB.