Usually, with you it is "now to machine a light from bar stock to fit the driver..."
Not quite this time. I’ve used this light peering down machined holes for along time now. Its ideal being a small zoomy being able to adjust the beam pattern to suit what your looking at. However it had a next mode memory driver with the dreaded flashy mode. The pencil mod on the capacitor only made it cantankerous. Due to a suitable driver not being available put up with it until now.
Another chip was added to make it five in total with an XPE2 Torch led used for lighting purposes. Shims were added to only allow the zoom I required. Dont laugh to hard at the flashlight itself. Yes it was cheap and very nasty. 
Congratulations, I have mixed success building them. Bad eyesight and short, thick fingers but still game.
I've done a few of those a while back using different drivers, FET and 7135's. They go pretty fast, hard to keep them around. I shorten the sliding piece to create a wider zoom area - works for most of them.
Nice Tom. So there are athers thatspend far to much time on crappy lights. I’ve got an Ultrafire that seems a lot smoother on the zoom and slightly larger lens that will get the same treatment next.
Not to mention shaky hands RBD.
Nice. I also have a few of those lights around...stock, FET, FET+7135, and boost (AA). Nice little lights.
Any 30mm FET+7135 Driver boards ??
The TA30 can be used as a FET+1 if you want although populating all the 7135’s is better.
Any 15mm board (fet only , single channel like this ) that uses an LFPAK56 FET ?
Becuase now i use one of these boards with a fet installed upside down
The TA15 is a 15mm board and the compact version can be sanded down to 14mm. It even has full 3 channel bistro compatibility but can be used in 2 channel mode as well or even FET only if you tweak the firmware. It uses the LFPAK33 FET, which is more then enough for any light limited to a 15mm driver (or much larger for that matter).
I want to ask if someone has tested if ToyKeepers Crescendo FW (Ramping for clickys and if i understand it right it is a Narsil mod FW) is working with the 17mm TA driver?
I love the ramping in Narsil so to get the option for a clicky paired with this nice driver would be sweet. I would test it myself but my oshpark boards are still on its way and i still have trouble to find a source for the SIR800DP or the SIR404DP FET here in Germany.
I have no idea on this, I only discovered that it existed yesterday. I am quite a bit out of the loop around here due to very limited internet time recently.
I think TK said something in the TA driver thread about having a version that should work with those drivers.
The little bit I understand about it is it's not based on Narsil, it uses a power switch (clicky) to do ramping, and does not have e-switch support yet. It's main goal is to have ramping on a clicky switch light, and fits in a ATtiny25.
Im sure this has been discussed before but…
I had problems with SRK drivers based on 7135’s. It works only lower modes and full. Depending on input voltage, it will just turn off when trying to use mid to almost high modes (like 100-254). I found that if i move that C1 to before D1 it works much better. And i understood that it should be like that because otherwise MCU could get voltage spikes and that’s the reason for these higher modes not to work.
Now i saw that DEL’s latest 7135 driver has resistor before MCU Vin, so this is the correct way to fix this issue? Maybe with this way i could make these SRK 7135’s drivers to work correctly?
SRK driver i mean is this:
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/vni3pdfB
What MCU are you using? For the 25/45/85, they can be unstable on the old-style OSHPark you linked. This is why all our new board designs have the extra resistors: R3, R4, and R5 (R5 sometimes is R6). Out of those, the most important one is the R5/R6 4.7 ohm that must precede the D1 diode. I've modded some standard 13A drivers by cut/jumper, and tombstone in a 4.7 ohm resistor.
Im using Attiny13A with these.
Hhmm, I dunno then. Sounds like it's PWM related. Have you tried an alternate firmware? Which firmware are you using? Might be something like a bad 7135 or solder joint, but if it happens on multiple boards, probably not. Could be issues maybe with FAST mode PWM's, or just the higher clock rates of PWM. This board uses a lot of 7135's, so many borderline spike/noise issues are amplified to a point of a problem. That typical D1/C1/R1/R2 circuit design barely gets by with 13A's. In fact I believe the spikes are out of spec with the 13A, just that the 13A tolerates them better than the 25/45/85's.
I think i have tried only this STAR_Momentary firmware:
7135’s have been those from Fasttech 100pcs packs, so far these “Raptor Claws”.
I have tried both FAST and PHASE PWM, made no difference. Clock rate i have not touched, maybe need to try that too.
Also i’m not 100% sure if it behaves like this with batteries, i don’t remember whether i tried or not. I test these with lab power (Manson HCS-3302) before putting in host. I did read for a long time ago about this C1 misplacing and i just moved it and it seems to work. But now that i saw this DEL’s way to do this, i started to think if i’m doing something wrong.
Hhmm. Not much choice out there for pure 7135 SRK drivers though. HQ, TA, and DEL all have good SRK designs, but think all use a FET.
HQ's boards here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/40540
For the SRK driver:
+1 what Tom said about the small resistor. Replace D1 with a series combination of a 2 to 10 ohm resistor and the original D1, then you should be good to go.
I do have a 16x 7135 driver board on OSH, shared and ordered, but it only shipped yesterday. It should be good though.