And why are the boards from Hank, MTN or whatever the best? A higher price does not make something better. Price is a trait whose value grows in an inversely proportional way. This is not meant to say that paying more for something is necessarily bad, but it needs to have a good reason, a reason of service to one and all.

I am pretty sure that any properly designed and decent quality DTP board will perform within error marging of the above. Kaidomain sells great boards (3030 and 4040 MCPCBs available), for example. And if you don't need a rare size or something fancy, there are even cheaper options and many of these could serve you (some board models are not DTP or lack thermoelectric separation -as they call it-, but it can be easily discerned if you know what to look for -and they are cheap anyway-).

So what is the best whatever? One whose value and quality to cost ratio excels. Any money you save can then be used to help you, those around you, and etc.

Sun, 08/09/2020 - 11:56

Well you can buy well known, established and working product, and you can buy opposite. You can buy Mercedes and you can buy Yugo and sure they will both drive you to destination.

KD boards seems like a copy of noctigon V1 boards and that is good cause they should work… But question for you. Why buy from kaidomain copy of noctigon board while I can buy same original noctigon board from IO store for less money than KD boards (when I take larger quantities)?

In my experience, the performance difference between the various available boards, as long as the thermal pad is DTP, is not measurable. There are some quality differences in how brittle the solder mask is and how well the traces are attached to the boards, but I found that only relevant when a board is used several times or is severely abused by overheating. Also sometimes the underside is not flat enough to my taste or it has a sharp edge that sticks out, but I always sand it anyway on a flat surface so that is a minimal issue.

Than things are easy… It all depends weather you like black, red or white color DTP boards :laughing:

Simon will be stocking 4040 boards and centering rings!

Is there any tests to show how well the Osram green 2mm2 performs? I purchased 2pcs but unsure how hard I can push them.


is there any side by side review for the W1 and W1.1 ?

Will there be any gain in swapping the LED’s or do you need to drive it harder?

No, but it is likely the same led underneath the phosfor as the white 2mm2 version, so I bet you can use that test for current/voltage/output behaviour.

Based on this I would expect probably ~10A for a Green 2mm. Probably an amp or two more for a 4040 footprint.

djozz, you tested the Ostar Projection PC-green 1mm² and got more than you bargained for:

The CSLNM1.TG curve isn't updated with the newer curves peaking at ≈5.7A, though.

I bought KD MCPCB's once --- never again. They like to de-laminate themselves under heat, plus they were thinner than Noctigons, SinkPAD's at the time.

Green and Red CSLNM1s from Simon. Unfortunately I already ordered green ones from Shenzhen silver ingot and who charged a bit more for them.



Simon newly listed bare KW CULPM1.TG BIN1:8RF-fcbB46-B5-6000 ,

Which is 1690-1900 Lumens and 3.25v-3.5v voltage.


Quite a bit higher priced, I’m waiting for djozz to test it

Does anyone remember the flux bin of the CULPM1.TG sold by Led4power? The 8RF Simon is selling is the 3rd highest bin so wondering how it compares with tbe ones already tested.

Flux bins for the CSLPM1.TG sold by led4power: 5P at first, then 6P.

Mon, 08/17/2020 - 09:25

I’m wondering how it will compare to the few CULNM1.TGs laying around for lux.

Not sure if there is 5P & 6P. there is ?

The convoy Z1 zoom flashlight is new I think. Might be interesting with 1mm²

I plan to install one when my stock arrives