Bill Murry
But I’m serious
Well, removing that handle would probably bring it a lot closer in weight.
Hi the Miller,
Please put me down for 1GT a 2kg flashlight with no price!
THX
yeah, flashlights by the kilo 
Nothing bad will happen if you put them all in head first.
You will just have 0 volts going to the driver.
Awesome that there is so much going on here and thanks for all the feedback! Here my long reply:
I use SolidEdge and Keyshot, both are freely available.
For the centre of gravity see below.
Both are removable so it should be fine. But if most of you prefer it machined into the parts I can change it. I just thought quite a few probably will never attach a strap and then it would be nice if the parts were removable:
They could be lasered out or something like that. Would probably be even cheaper than machining them into the body.
I think it should work out. The beast has the handle even further back and you can hold the light comfortably. Maybe Xandre could check where the centre of gravity is there. Apart from that, with the light here, the green dot marks the CoG:
So it is pretty much in the middle of the second finger. A little too far in front but it should be fine.
I think you all overestimate how strong it has to be or underestimate how strong stuff is. I don’t see a problem in the durability. The Polarion PH50 (as previously mentioned I took quite some inspiration from their lights haha) has a similar construction and the handle seems to be out of some reinforced plastic.
Maybe it would be possible to include a tripod mount into the spacer which replaces the handle. I also don’t know, if it would be possible just make two groups, since as far as I can see it is more or less evenly distributed between “I want a handle” and “I don’t want a handle”. I certainly would be willing to pay quite a bit extra for a handle.
I will try to incorporate more cooling fins, but you are right, it also wouldn’t make too much sense to change everything. However, I also think the head has a pretty big surface on its own so I wouldn’t worry too much about it. Maybe 5ar could do a thermal analysis? Or I’ll try to do one.
Regarding the empty space, I will add some anti-rolling stuff.
Hm, I’d actually say because the light is so huge that can’t really happen. And if it happens I don’t think knurling would prevent that. But of course we can keep it in mind and I can also try to make it a little more grippy.
I’ll do my best to come up with something. However, as already mentioned, the tailcap should prevent the worst already.
I will try to think of something that fits into the design scheme. A flat tube with knurling would be more comfortable to hold but wouldn’t fit into the design. For that 5ar’s design is better.
Those were my thoughts as well. I think here we’re already out of the flashlight range (that light will fit in no pocket) but rather in the size of searchlights. Also most of those have handles for a reason.
The weight without reflector and handle is 1135 grams. While the head is already pretty slim I am sure I could shed of a few grams around the body and the tailcap. They are pretty beefy.
And by the way, after a suggestion of Jerommel I moved the button a little further in front and adjusted the design a little:
I really like the way the button looks now.
Also I hope I haven’t forgotten anyone! I tried to reply to everything.
Fritz15 You'll have to change some things. I'll help you if you agree of course.
I hope you'll be able to see from the picture I'm talking about
driver will need at least 10mm of height clearance to the bottom of the shelf, height of shelf 10-15mm in your design space is small for the shelf and the empty space above the driver, the switch will not be able to hold in that position because of cell carrier
strap to attach on head must have I see that you used Stainless steel ring but I'm afraid that this ring will be too expensive, so you'll have to find another solution
Heat dissipation will be a problem with this design without shelf IMHO.
I see some other things that are not best placed, attempt to correct first this.
These things I have to specify because all the essential, hope that other agrees with me.
PS top image was made, based on Fritz15 specifications post #1670
- 8 × 18650 with carrier
- 125mm x 100mm reflector (d x l)
- 18mm current switch (for safety reasons)
- Shoulder strap attachment holes
- Lenght: 31,3 cm, 12.3 inches
Great work again, I love all the people bringing new designs to the table and making nice renders 
Hi, here a cross-sectional view with dimensions:
I think an Aluminium ring should be fine, too and might be just as cheap as machining it into the head. Otherwise it also wouldn’t be a problem to include the attachment-points into the head or respectively the tailcap.
What do you mean by “shelf”?
Shelf the MCPCB sits on, to better drain the heat from LED emitters
Your reflector is wrong, it needs to be cut flat about 10mm from the right because that’s where the focal point of the LED is.
The focal point is not at the bottom.
Try using this to make your reflector: Parabola - Height And Width Formula | Desmos
Set the width to 120 and height to 90
If you scroll down you will see a value called h2 which is 99.08 which is the absolute height of the reflector (close to the 99.6 in your render)
So to have a reflector of height 90, your render will need to render a reflector of height 99.08 with 9.08mm cut off the right end.
I much like the deep matte sandblast finish.
And i think it will provide a lot of extra grip too.
This means knurling is not a necessity anymore.
Wow, yet another awesome rendering! Just a note/fyi to all designers, I'm pretty sure the best place for the fins is where the heat emanates from, and that's where the LED is, or at least where the shelf it sits on meets the body. That should be the best place to locate the cooling fins. I don't see that approach in these two renderings, though I'm sure I haven't seen them all. The fins on the one above are below the switch and pill cavity, relatively far away from the heat source, so it's not making an efficient use of the fins.
This isn't the first time this issue of fins placement has been brought up, but I'll keep on reminding those needing reminding. Keep in mind that the perhaps the best thermally designed production light is the TrustFire TR-J20, threads here:
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/26398
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/33717
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/27272
Yes, butt ugly, but they got the mass and fins right for high watts usage. I've experienced the opposite extreme - a TN31 that has a narrow neck where the LED sits, and when you crank them up to 6.5A, maybe ~26 watts, boy does that neck of the light get hot.
Yes - like this as pointed out above in #1732! Fins along side of the shelf, above, and below -- this is much better thermally. Can debate depth, spacing, thickness, etc., of fins of course. I think the key metric is surface area, so best we can do to maximize it without taking too much away from style and mass.
I just drew a line through three points and as far as I know solid edge should use a quadratic spline to interpolate (which is a parabola). And since there isn’t really an exact plan on how the reflector has to be I don’t think it makes sense to adjust it. I can cut 10mm off though and just increase the thickness of the shelf (right usage?) a little. So in the end it should be the same.
@5ar: thank you for the explanation. Do you have any more suggestions regarding my design?
Yes, you are right, that is indeed the best place. However, I doubt that it makes a more than theoretical difference. But maybe someone could calculate that?
Yeah just cut 10mm off so that it is flat, that will be a pretty good estimate of how it should be.
Just so that we can see something closer to realistic
For me, the big problem was to find a position to include the attachment points into the head, while watching your cross-sectiona do not know how to do that try maybe you’ll easily find solution. Aluminum is a soft metal. The aluminum ring would quickly snapped due to friction.
Good points, but it depends on the wall thickness of the head at the base too, not just if it’s narrow on the outside.
And yes, that TR-J20 is indeed butt ugly (a hairy fat man’s butt :D)
And don’t forget the GT will be much bigger too.
PS: i have the shelf planned at the middle fin (on my design).
Orange prick?