thank you guys, I put a second order in at mtn, and requested they combine the two to save the shipping charge for two litte spacers. ( extra cant hurt)
that 9mm one looks like the ones sold by simon. I did not order it, and he already shipped my order =/
that is great advice. thank you. I am exited to try this out. if it works alright, it could be a new hobby.
when you are done and the wire hardens in, do you need to add any more blob on top? or clean up what is there? Also dou you stick the kapton tape over whole driver expept led?
the pack of tips does have that tip with the angle cut. I will use that one. the flux I ordered looks like a liquid, not a paste, is that going to be alright?
this station looks slightly different that the 936b I posted previously. the top cooling area seems different. I offered $24 ill see if he accepts
http://www.ebay.com/itm/361195877186?\_trksid=p2055359.m2763.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I have the last soldering station you posted. It works well. You can get it Here and save a few dollars. If you leave that page open for a bit, you will get a drop down with a price of $11.82. I forget what shipping was, but it was less than $20 delivered.
So I revisited the problem I had with the switch and found that there are actually two issues but fortunately there is a simple fix for both. The switch barrel is a half a mm too wide to fit inside the washer between the switch and boot. A few minutes with a needle file bores out the washer enough to fit. The other issue with the switch height can be fixed by taking out the boot, turning it inside out and cutting a mm or so off the nib in the center. Put it all back together and you’re done. Works like a charm.
Edit: Don’t forget that the retaining ring for the switch threads backwards compared to the driver ring.
I just added to the cart to see myself. The Drop-Down offer is $11.92. When checking out, the cheapest shipping option is +$8.94.
I did it. To my location it cost a total of $21.56
Only took a minute for the offer to come up. Thank you.
I can’t wait to try it out.
Awesome. I like the ability to half press and get light.
Thanks for the info
It seems I spoke too soon. When I got home and tried it I found I needed to file down the diameter of the switch MPC board a little to get the retaining ring to make proper contact. I used a dremel for this. Now it actually works in the light.
Note to self: Always check for continuity. :–5
That’s no problem. I’ll have to see if it’s worth the effort. I may do that after. I just want to make the light work.
I think you will like it. I agree with ReManG, the bigger tips work better with this. The scalloped one he mentions is good for dragging solder, too. The one I use most, I believe is 1.6mm chisel tip. I always have to set the Temp higher than I think I should, but who knows how these are calibrated.
around what temp does yours seem to do the best?
I prefer the “spin to center” technique that wight mentioned. It is what I usually do with XP emitters in most Convoys.
Convoy has a new XP centering ring that fit these as well. I bought some, but I am not very happy with the fit or focus. Many of them are sloppy around the emitter, and they are all way too thick for proper focus. The results with the XM spacer IMO were superior to using the XP centering ring, even if it takes a few tries to get centered.
Thank you,
My order came in very quickly.
It is by far the best packing I have seen from any online seller. Very clean and organised. It was perfect. Everything was protected properly.
Thank you for the note with the gift as well. I am very satisfied.
Now I am debating if I should order an Xml2 emitter, if that is what the host is designed for. I was hoping xpl hi would give more throw, but that’s only if it can work hand in hand with reflector.
Maybe a high cri xml2 would be best.?
I will suggest something that I have just started doing.
Make a log of you modded lights.
Led bin and tint, driver, amps(if you get into that). And jot down notes on key points to get the build finished.
Example — I ordered same forward clicky you did. I ended up swapping switches on the board, cutting the nub , and some filing. I like forward clickys on thrower lights , often they don’t even get clicked all the way on.
I did this before the log, and I couldn’t remember how I did it. Came across a empty switch board and remembered.
If you find a tint or certain Led that you like, you will know what it is.
You can also pass out advice to future modders
I just did a very similar build with the m2. I did the original mtn fet with the xp-l hi. I found that the gasket that comes with it is fine. I put the tiniest drop of super glue on the far wings of the gasket. This held it in place while I tightened it down and it centered perfectly. Just took a little jiggling as I tightened it to get the reflector perfect. The focus was good enough for me.
I did try a few gaskets before I glued and they all were pretty much the same beam, just slight changes in focus.
Its a great setup. It handles heat well and you can get quite a few minutes before the light gets too hot on turbo mode
The XP-L HI will give you more throw, that's for sure; however, you will probably need to sand down the centering ring for proper focus. Sand the MCPCB side and also the reflector side a little bit if it sticks up past the thickness of the reflector opening. Some stick up too far and some don't; there is a lot of variation in the spacers.
Thanks for the replies.
With some time and effort and a few drinks can an xpl hi or nichia 219 focus as good as an xml2 would?
What grit paper do you use
Yes, they can focus just as well. With the 219 the issue is pretty much just centering, but with the XP-L HI you need to get the emitter a bit deeper into the reflector.
I think what I usually use is 80 grit...it doesn't need to be real smooth, it just needs to be the right thickness. You will see the hotspot getting sharper as you come into focus.
Thank you all I added some pics. My first build, so if you see something I can do better next time let me know. It’s good to learn
Looks great! If that is your first soldering to a Noctigon, you did it very well….I thought I was going to burn the red off of one the first time I soldered to it… Nice build, I hope I gives you years of good service…