Been wanting to upgrade my MT-G2 DST to 9amps on high. High would be just be a "Turbo" mode. After playing with the DST for a bit, it seems the pill is a bottleneck in heat transfer. The head has a nice large platform on the top to lay a piece of copper on. I also want a shorter and bigger diameter driver bay. So I'm trashing the pill and going copper on a budget. I also want it reversible, just in case.
For this build, I'm getting my copper from HVAC tube found on clearance at HD. This copper is .035" thick. I cut it to the length I need with a tube cutter. This gives me a very true straight cut. I then put a piece of masking tape along the length of the tube and the split the tube open by cutting along the tape. I then open up the tube and press it flat. I usually anneal it before the final pressing.
I use cardboard to determine the length of copper strip I need to make the diameter tube I need like so:
Once I get the cardboard to the size I want, I use it as a template to mark my copper sheet. I then cut it and then bend it into a circle. For outer tube, I used a 1" broom handle to bend the piece into shape. The piece was 3.5" long. I think 1" (ID) copper tube would work fine if one didn't want to build the tube.
The DST will need several of those disks that are on the right to have adequate thickness for heat transfer and to get the emitter to the right height. I will reflow them together with silver bearing solder, but that is probably overkill.
First I sand the anno off the top of the head for better heat transfer and for the first stage of lapping. Then I sand the anno off the top of the switch tube for a nice electrical connection directly to the pill and also for heat transfer to the battery tube.
I then use a file to fine tune the size. For this build, I wanted to press the tube in tight. I had to use a 1 ton arbor press ($37 from HF with coupon) to get it pressed in. It's not going anywhere without being cut out. I should have sanded the anno off that channel at the top of the head before I pressed in the tube. I will be sticking copper in there too.
Here is the bottom of the tube that will be in contact with the switch body.
That's it for now. Got a lot little details to finish the "pill" as it will need to be thick to handle the MT-G2.
The driver may end up going up into the area around the reflector as I want the light to have the ability to use 3 protected cells.