Post your LD-2 modded flashlights

itsonlyme · August 7, 2015, 9:49pm

Bump, thought there would be more info here given the group buy that was done. Let’s see what you did with yours.

3Tronics · August 8, 2015, 5:45pm

hank · August 8, 2015, 6:23pm

Yup. Needs cooling fins. Something like this that I mentioned here long ago:

ohaya · August 11, 2015, 12:29am

Hi,

This may sound like a kind of stupid question, but can someone post a CLEAR pic showing where the + and - emitter leads go to on the LD-2 driver?

Thanks,
Jim

Rufusbduck · August 11, 2015, 11:25pm

You’re right, it does. Led- is connected to the big drain tab of the FET so it goes to the hole closest. Led+ connects to the spring pad on the bottom and is isolated on the top. Very clear pictures in the info thread op.

itsonlyme · August 12, 2015, 1:39am

ohaya · August 12, 2015, 1:56am

Thanks! That “info” thread was not working for awhile.

Jim

itsonlyme · August 18, 2015, 8:32pm

I built a Solarforce M9 last night with a Xhp70.
Tail readings are

Ncr18650B high 5.91
Efest IMR 30A high 7.80
Sony VTC4 7.91

Stock dmm leads and stock springs

4500 lumens in or around going by Djozz tests.

Lotus_Darkrose · August 21, 2015, 2:02pm

Breathed new life into my SpiderFire P7 light (C2 host).

—-LD-2 driver with moonlight at 6A
—-High gauge silicon wire to LEDs
—–3x Cree XP-L V6 2C (not de-domed) on 32mm Noctigon board
—~~3x 15.8mm X 8.8mm OP reflectors (http://www.kaidomain.com/Product/Details.S023420)~~ Some dremeling was required (seen in 3rd photo)
—-AR coated lens
—-Omten switch
—-Spring bypass at driver and switch with high-gauge wire

The heatsink is made up of several stacked copper discs, and the 32mm Noctigon board all very tightly pressed together with Arctic Alumina thermal paste, making lots of direct contact with the body of the light. Should hold up great. From what I can tell, heat is transferring just fine when using on high.

And of course, some photos!

Thanks for looking

MRsDNF · August 21, 2015, 9:02pm

Nice mod. Its good to see new life brought back into the old dog. With the tiny reflectors is the beam pattern floody?

Lotus_Darkrose · August 22, 2015, 2:19am

Thanks! It’s hard to tell inside my apartment exactly how floody it is. I’ll take some pictures out back along the nearby bike trail tonight.

Update: Here’s some beamshots!

Moonlight:

Low:

Medium:

High:

Vs EagleEye X6 with de-domed XM-L at 2.8A (eventually will modify driver lol)

eebowler · August 22, 2015, 4:09am

I would have posted a moded blf X6 but tonight while measuring tailcap current, there was a slip (-ve lead on battery may have slipped and touched the +ve lead on body) and a little spark, and the light died. Amusingly, it went in stages. First, moonlight alone worked. After trying a couple minutes hoping the modes would come back, I took off the light. 5 mins later when I put it back on, nothing. Opened it up, battery was warm. Now it’s shorting. lol. Wouldn’t get a chance to check out the circuit till tomorrow evening. Nothing smelt burnt though. ;(

Rufusbduck · October 5, 2015, 6:36am

Just finished two BLF EE X6’s with spring mods, stock emitters. Had to trim the button on one tail cap cover to reduce switch sensitivity. Both measured ~ 5. 5A with new LG HE4 cells. Very thick, short wires but no guarantees on my set up. Medium is comparable to high on the stock BLF edition. Also modded is a 502 B that had some body work done to accommodate 2 x 18650 cells for an XHP 50. Baked ano, copper fins and pill that screws to reflector and fins, solder wick switch spring. Thanks for the tip on the NTC short. I’ll post current draw later this week.

M4D_M4X · October 5, 2015, 9:28am

that light looks fantastic!

cajampa · October 5, 2015, 2:16pm

Wow, that looks great i love the wooden tube grip part of it

Rufusbduck · October 5, 2015, 6:26pm

Thanks guys, I like how it’s turned out too, especially how the figure in the cherry matches the baked ano.

Might not be the driver but the led or protected cell over current trip. Look for black spots at the bond wires or try a different cell.

hank · October 5, 2015, 10:31pm

copper fins and pill that screws to reflector and fins

I sure want to know more about how you did that.

MRsDNF · October 5, 2015, 11:23pm

Just jumping in here.

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/34440#node-40540

Rufusbduck · October 6, 2015, 6:23am

Thanks Steve, P60 drop ins use 20mm x 1 mm thread and I found at tap at a local salvage yard and ordered a matching die. That thread details how the parts were made and threaded to allow that screw together connection. Should have much better thermal transfer than the typical floating drop in and the added mass and surface area won’t hurt either. No lathes involved.