Seems like this uses a glued/pressed tail pcb and driver. Is there a plan by lumintop to install retaining rings in this like the update to the fw3a?
With a retaining ring on both the driver and tial pcb, the fw3a has everything I’m looking for except there is no mechanical lock out. This edc18 has mechanical lock out but doesn’t use retaining rings for the driver/tail pcb.
MCPCB is not glued, the driver is. I think the switch is mounted on the driver, not separate like the Emisar D4. I already swapped emitters on mine.
fluke- that sounds interesting. do you have a pic or two of your light you can post?
Received my EDC18 XPL HI a couple of days ago and have been putting it through its paces.
The Anduril ui is great and packed full of features. The build quality is of a high standard, the ss threaded bezel is well done, the magnet in the tailcap is super strong. Twin tail springs are a nice touch and the illuminated bunny makes finding it in the dark easy.
The switch is a little firm [and a little taller] compared to a D4 but works well.
A couple of approx peak measurements taken with Sony VTC6-
Turbo - 3100 lumens Candela 16500
Top of stepped mode - 900 lumen
Top of ramp muggle mode - 260 lumen
All std configuration.
Really nice very small 18650 light with a smooth even floody beam and nice reach. I have a carclo 10507 i was going to put in it but i kinda like it as is.
I’m not quite understanding this recent association of “edc” with side switches.
To me, edc means a light that’s always with me, clipped in my pocket. The most ideal light for that scenario is a tail clicky or tail e-switch (we need more of those), as there’s far less chance of accidental activation, and also no need a lockout mode. An edc light should be quick and easy to put into operation immediately without searching for a button or performing an unlock sequence, as it is often needed in short bursts.
If anything, side switches are ideal for everything except edc IMO, and historically they have been on the larger non-pocketed lights for that reason.
I’m leaning towards adding that to my statutes…
I agree… And I thought the FW3A would be it but even the 1st batch with the firmer switches activates too easily. And some might say it has electronic lockout… That’s just not “EDC” for me. If I want light, I want it now. That’s why I’m carrying the EDC18 over the FW3A. Not a single accidental switch activation in my pocket, even at work.
Maybe the Acebeam TK18 will have a better E-tail switch, but it doesn’t have Anduril (not a deal breaker, Acebeam UI is much like Olight which is good), and no 1 lumen or less moonlight (deal breaker).
Oh, and the tail magnet. I was annoyed more by the absence of a tail magnet in the FW3A than the sensitive E-switch. I use it a lot…
Jason, what’s the story on that last optic? Does it have a reflector-ish coating? If so, what effect does it have? I would think more throw but perhaps not, as there’s still a large emitter-to-reflector/optic/hole ratio. Maybe just less lumens lost? I would like to see a light with that.
That’s good to hear, they have apparently done a good job on the side switch in this case then.
And I completely agree about the implementation and quality of some tail e-switches. Some do not have the correct level of resistance in the switch and it activates with too little pressure.
And some are just not durable. Another issue is lack of adequate protection around the switch.
A decent example of a tail e-switch I experienced was on the Acebeam TK16. It felt just right and never had an accidental activation. (I got rid of it though because I didn’t like the cr123 format in my pocket, and clip was aggravating)
Because of this lack of quality and selection in tail e-switches I stick to mechanical clickys for pocket carry right now.
I could understand that, some people have other use cases for their edc light, so for you tail switch won’t work if you need magnets. Personally my pocket edc light uses don’t involve magnet utility so I prefer tail activation.
This morn I finally got some movement on tracking for the EDC18 in Korea - but its' still in Korea after a 15 day delay, :facepalm:
I got another BG order (AX4) with the same fate, still hung up in Korea after 10 days.
Still no clue about the 18350 tubes?
Made me check mine, 15 days for processing ? And it’s still in per-shipment. :weary:
Origin Post is Preparing Shipment
We have received notice that the originating post is preparing to dispatch this mail piece.
October 15, 2019, 4:21 pm
Processed Through Facility
SEOUL INTERNATIONAL POST OFFICE, KOREA REPUBLIC OF
September 30, 2019, 2:18 pm
Acceptance
These are just the basic optics that fit the FW3A, minus the elliptical one. These 4 are basically the same except for the amount of frosting on the outer surface. The more frosted it is, the wider the beam angle and the brighter the spill light. 10507 is just the clear version. After trying them all, I found the 10507 to show some beam artifacts, so I find the stock 10511 to be the best choice.
The 10511 is called a narrow spot. 22° (lightly frosted)
The 10508 is called a medium spot. 27° (heavier frosted)
The 10509 is called a wide spot. 40° (heaviest frosted)
The 10507 is the non-frosted, clear version with a narrow spot. 18°
Has anyone unloaded an edc18 yet?
Thanks for the explanation. For some reason looking at it yesterday it seemed like there was a silver-y coating on the last one, but looking at it now I can see it’s just clear. Though I have heard of a hybrid type optic that does have a reflective coating applied on the outside of the “cones”.
This is an interesting light. I’m gonna add it to the ever growing wish list.
Arrived today … I am very pleased … 
great to see your updates! :beer:
Received mine today! Looks like it left the factory in a hurry, there was a lot of lube on the threads and leaking out. Also my bunny is crooked. Will probably pickup a green turbo glow for it. If I switch optics do they sell just the glass? Since now it’s all one piece unlike the FW3A.