More details here, and in the posts preceding it: 【TS10V2 Co release soon】Wurkkos "slender waist" TS10v2 copper available next week with 3000k&4000K - #2569 by dmenezes
Thank You!
so to repeat your warning for emphasis,
which hex file link should people w new Cu TS10 use… afaict the answer is… just use the stock firmware it shipped with: 0000-2024-04-20, that has the Fet limited to 50% ;-)…
Do NOT reflash the Copper TS10 V2 with Toykeepers 0713-2024-04-20 hex (what percent is the Fet limited to in that build?)
next question… is TK’s 0713-2024-04-20 hex OK for the Wurkkos HD10? or does it use the new CSP that are in the Copper TS10… and therefore should Not be reflashed to 0713-2024-04-20 from TK?
and, Where does someone obtain the 0000-2024-04-20 hex file that is on the Copper TS10?
Now for my AntiTurbo soapbox
imo, all these potential issues with potential for burned LEDs, are Eliminated by my Disable Turbo strategy…
stay tuned as we start to hear from the ProTurbo crowd, when they report that their H10 battery fried the LEDs in their newly reflashed Wurkkos HD10…
and, can someone tell me… what is the firmware version that is shipping on the new Orange Wurkkos HD10?..
Im holding off from buying one until I get a better understanding of which firmware i could use to reflash Wurkkos HD10. the issue is I dont know if it uses the same CSP batch as the new Copper TS10…
when in doubt, do not reflash… or if you insist on reflashing, Disable Turbo 
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I had posted a warning on reddit earlier today:
https://reddit.com/comments/1emyyq9
100%
Good question, I wondered the same.
0000 is a development build. The final 0712 is linked in my post. It’s valid until ToyKeeper merges the changes and releases a new build.
As long as you don’t use strobe modes, which use the maximum output in the old firmware.
The new firmware works there as well and shouldn’t cause any trouble. If it worked before with reduced ceiling to level 130, you could set the new ceiling to 150. The old 130 is the new 150.
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Hey Jon,
Thanks for your further comments! 
Answering quickly as I should have already headed out the door for today’s chores:
Agreed, or use @SammysHP’s “ts10-rgbaux-lowfet” hex, assuming he released it; if he didn’t, then compile it from his sources.
But if urgent flashing is not needed, it’s better to wait for TK to incorporate the PR into her own repo and release the corresponding hex.
I see an indication here in my browser page that Sammy is already responding to this, so I’m leaving further comments to him.
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Thanks for the info, but wow, is this topic getting out of hand in terms of easy understanding.
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It’s simple: Don’t update the firmware of your new TS10 copper and you’re safe.
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As @dmenezes did not link my post about it, here it is:
Thanks for the link. I wasn’t aware of it – as you seemingly didn’t know, I don’t access Reddit anymore.
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thank you for that added warning… Tactical Strobe does use Turbo, even if it is Disabled for the normal smooth and stepped ramp
The old 130 is the new 150.
thank you, that makes sense to me, as i had read somewhere that TK indicated that level 130, in her hex, is 50% FET
thank you
true… here is the gist of it
this is the direct download link to the 0712-2024-04-20 hex with Fet limited to 50%
this 0712-2024-04-20 Hex should be used for any new TS10 and HD10… it has a lower Turbo than what is presetly on Toykeepers repo, hex version 0713-2024-04-20, which is Not Recommended for the latest version of CSP LEDs that Wurkkos put into the Copper TS10 V2, and may also be the CSP installed in the latest Wurkkos HD10…
if in doubt, Disable Turbo and DoNot use Tactical Strobe
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Hi, I just found this thread. What’s the actual safe level to use on these lights?
I got a message from Terry asking me to set the maximum to 200 of 255, so I did that… and then found this thread suggesting a lower limit. And now I also see a patch for splitting the builds into original and reduced-power varieties.
So I could use some confirmation on how much power is actually usable, and whether it needs old and new build flavors or just new.
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I frequently run my lights in turbo in small bursts.
This definitely isn’t a good idea with the TS10. Those tiny CSP leds can’t take the output.
I noticed this last year when the LEDs in 3 different first-run TS10s started burning out within weeks of purchase. They still lit, but sections of the leds were no longer lighting up, resulting in a very substantial reduction in overall output (about 50% lower than when new). I reflowed fresh CSP leds to replace the burnt ones, but they too quickly started to burn out.
My conclusion is that the CSP leds simply aren’t suited to anything other than very low output. If you want high output, you should get an alternate star and swap in 519a, or just get an Emisar D3AA with dedomed 519a.
Alternatively, set the peak ramp quite low on the TS10 and only run in simple mode.
For the latest batch of copper TS10 the maximum should be 50% FET. That’s what Terry and I decided after our tests and what was used for my build that is shipped with the copper TS10.
Older generations of the TS10 can handle 100%, although I’d always be careful with that.
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how many lumens for Ceiling, do you think is realistic, 350 lm?
and only run in simple mode.
do you mean so that Turbo is disabled?
what if someone wanted to use Advanced, and Turbo was set to 700 lumens, do you think the CSP would not burn then?
This could be implemented by reflashing an Aluminum TS10 that has he old CSP LEDs, with Sammys Copper TS10 firmware.
does this mean that the 9050 CSP in the Copper TS10 are 100% more efficient than prior CSP, and therefore runtime will double?
I think it would be good to specify Lumens, for example, Ceiling 350 lumens, Turbo 700 lumens, and then build firmware based on which CSP version is installed in the light, to achieve the no burn target Lumens for Ceiling and Turbo.
and whether it needs old and new build flavors or just new.
since the new 9050 CSP make 2000 lumens at the same power level the old CSP make 1400 lumens, I think two builds are in order.
Best would be for TS10 to ship with the correct build, for the installed version of CSP.
No.
For a linear light like this, a lower Vf usually means it’s less efficient, and burns off more excess voltage as heat. In a FET+1 light like this, the Vf needs to be as close to the battery voltage as possible, to maximize efficiency… but lower Vf widens that gap.
Also no. It’s not the same power level. With direct drive (the FET), lower LED Vf means it can run at significantly higher amps, so it produces more light but it’s also using quite a bit more power. Lower-Vf LEDs produce an effect very similar to using a higher-amp or higher-voltage battery.
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thank you, very helpful explanation…
Is it correct that the new CSP make the same lumens at 50% FET, as the old CSP make at 100% FET?
Yes.
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Bottom line is, FET drivers should just die already. I wish companies invested the additional dollar for a regulated driver.
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agree, and with NoPWM please, like the Emisar D3AA.
The TS10 demonstrated that 1400 Lumen Turbo and High Aux Brightness can exceed the capability of a 14500 host. The CSP LEDs can burn on Turbo, and the High Aux can drain the battery in less than a week.
Thanks to the TS10 we learned that
- Anduril had no LVP on Aux (fixed in July 2022)
- Anduril w Fet can kill CSP LEDs (ongoing)
- Anduril has no thermal regulation for blinkies (ongoing)
- Disabling Turbo does not disable Turbo for blinkies. (ongoing)
Overall the TS10 has taught us a lot of things about unlimited Turbo and excessively bright Aux.
However, I dont think Wurkkos is going to change the TS10 design. They will continue to market the 1400 Lumen target for the TS10 w CSP LED, and continue to ship lights with Aux that are too bright at High brightness, and will drain the battery in less than one week.
The CSP LEDs have become increasingly poor in Tint and CRI…
The D3AA is superseding the TS10 for LED Tint and CRI, but at a higher price. I still much prefer the formfactor of the TS10… but the CSP are no longer acceptable, to me… Which is why Im not going to buy any more TS10, nor will I buy the HD10. Swapping out the CSP LEDs is beyond my skills.
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This seems like very similar to what I said about the new copper TS10V2, just other words, and I did not mention the D3AA - correct? 
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Not monotonically increasing, IME there were dips and peaks in that curve. Highest peak so far were the original TS10 v1 4000K ‘first batch’ LEDs, tint good enough to comparable to the 519a. Worst dip for me were the ones in my TiTS10. The newish TS10v2 4000K LEDs I got about a month ago are better than the ones in the TiTS10, but still worse than the v1 originals.
But the worst issue IMO is not tint: it’s reliability. A flashlight should not fry its LEDs no matter what, including turbo use, and should not need any “special” firmware nor special configuration by the user just because it has weak LEDs. And the sad fact is that the TS10 is failing at this from the start, a little in the beginning but apparently quite catastrophically with the latest batch.
but then… for $20… what do we expect?
Apparently we can expect to pay ~$20 for a TS10 MCPCB with 519As, and then ~$40 for a decent soldering iron, and then spend the necessary elbow grease to open up our $20 TS10s and replace their MCPCBs… lots of fun for only $80 total cost… or buy a D3AA to begin with for half that price 
(but then there’s the D3AA preflash and other issues). Lots of fun to be had! 
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