Bypasses are not just for added amps, they keep springs from melting. I've bypassed those type of springs. Even a 24 AWG will help big time. If you kept the stock driver with low amps, not so much an issue.
…hmm. Is 5 amps enough to do that?
Maybe I’ll give it a try. Would you bypass just the spring, or solder directly to the switch and maybe even brass button?
For those, I usually only bypass the spring. I try to eliminate the brass button but that's not always an option, depending. for this switch at a minimum you would have to solder the spring to the switch. But if you only want to save the spring, a simple internal bypass of the spring itself will do.
For high amps, these switches have a few issues. This is why e-switch lights with simple springs and no tail switch are so much better.
I already did a spring bypass, it’s fairly easy?
solder wire to bottom of switch, down through spring and directly into the brass end cap, I soldered it all in there.
I technically bypassed the entire spring I suppose lol, although it is soldered in too (to the switch anyway).
You could easily fit any switch in there, just needs a spacer around it/above it. The plastic housing would dremel out quite easily too, but I wouldn’t do that in case you ever need to return it to stock.
I did try to fit an omten, it’s slightly fatter and needed sanding down which was easy, but the lugs are bent too far out and snap if you try to put them in closer, even then it wasn’t a good enough fit, it just was a ball ache so I put the old one back, which to be fair doesn’t look that different anyway. I lost a couple of switches just trying.
25mm copper bar is incoming for some mods lol!
Mind blown
The holes are too far apart for the standard S2+ deep carry clip:
Also, the red switch cap (with brass!?) had to go. I had an extra black one from a BLF-A6, but I had to trim the inside with a knife.
Much better:
Is it really brass? What’s it look like inside?
It’s really brass. The threads are yellow, and if they were anodized the light would lock out when unscrewed, but it doesn’t. There are some inside pictures up-thread.
Not a fan of the cool white with mode memory, so I took it apart and threw in a few parts I had lying around. I filed down a Convoy driver a little to get it fit, and soldered it to the pill (which wasn’t necessary, the brass ring would have worked fine with this one-sided driver):
There isn’t much room on the pill to add thermal compound, but that’s OK I only put in a 3x7135 driver:
Then added an SST-20. Final result is a little throwier than the same emitter in an S2+…so, maybe this is an S2 clone? It’s much better with neutral white high CRI and Biscotti. Great deal for $20, plus spare parts.
Nice job. I have put a single nichia in mine with a tir, but my triple sst20 has arrived, and the copper bar, just no pill lol…grr.
Had those 2 ally pills turn up - they don’t fit. Mine don’t have brass rings, did your come with those? I have even modified the thread on the lathe, it was up by over 0.8mm on the original - I’m wondering how yours fitted, but mine don’t - they surely must be different.
After much messing around, it lives!
!
!
Nice 
Thanks Nooner, I’m really impressed with it in the dark, quite a good spot and I used the A17dd driver - it stays oh highest for a while and doesn’t get massively hot.
The confusion about copper vs. brass is due to sloppy translation, not anyone trying to pull a fast one.
In Chinese, brass is 黄铜 (huang tong).
In Chinese copper is 铜 (tong).
黄 (huang) means yellow.
So translated into English, brass is literally “yellow copper.”
This is good information to know. Thank you.
Same over here, the oldfashioned way:
Geel koper
Rood koper
Although brass is more correctly called “messing”.
That’s interesting. So the surname Messing is likely to mean brass literally.
Messing is the german word for brass. Over here the term yellow copper is unkown.
The price got bumped to over $28 on aliexpress + hidden fees.
There is branded Alonefire SV007 on Amazon with prime shipping