I will see if I can find some time later to do it that way then, that makes it a lot easier that is for sure.
Thinking about the 1st batch Q8’s, apart from the cutouts in the reflector, there is no reason why the ledboard screws should have a fixed position in regard to the leds. So if very shallow screwheads are chosen, or filed to shape, shallower than the tightened center pieces, the holes may be anywhere in the circle. So if there’s room for those in the design it may be an idea to add them.
The 2nd batch does have a fixed hole position so it would not work for those.
Here is a 4P setup that doesn’t use the mounting screws.
How many were in the 1st batch? Is it even worth bothering to make ones that would work with those? It would reduce the trace thickness at some point and thus increase resistance some.
Virtually anybody can make a bridge to put the screw through the MCPCB and into the reflector. Wax a straw, put JB Weld or any quick set epoxy in a small bottle lid , something like a screw on soda pop top, with the straw in the middle. When the epoxy sets, voila! You have a disc with a hole in the middle. No drill required. It’s just a matter of getting creative and using what you have available, if you want it done, you can manage…There’s all kinds of washers available at a hardware store, gotta be something like a small fender washer that would work without modification of any kind. File off the sides, grind em off with a belt sander, hone it down on the sides on a rough rock. That would give the sides through hole access for the wires. It’s doable all kinds of ways.
Nice design and drawing TA, let it simmer for a few days to see if any smart responses come up that make it even better, after that I or TheOnlyDocc can contact Sundy for a quote.
Edit: I guess that the drawing needs some dimensions for it to be interpreted by Kerui?
Yeah, if the design is approved I will tweak a few things to make it look a little better and then upload the full gerber files that they should be able to use to get the technical specs.
Well I have not seen anyone mention any issues with this design, so I am going to export it as a finished design in a little bit.
Agree :+1:
Lucky for me these won’t be ready before Christmas, I’d have to do more work on my S-i-L’s Q8 if they were…
Modded my first light with a Lumileds L1V1 (Luxeon V), 4000K on Led4Power's 16 mm MCPB. Got just over 2,100 lumens at 30 secs in a KRONOS X6 SS/Cu, 8.7A at the tail using a VTC6, clamp meter. The light has the stock driver and stock LED wires, but with the springs bypassed. There wasn't much of a drop in the first 30 seconds
Really like the tint - very much like a classic 5D1 or 5D2. The LED isn't well centered though. The only thing that looked weird was a bluish tint in the corona around the hot spot, but it only showed 60-90 degrees around the LED. Figure it's due to the LED being off center, or possibly that I have some kapton tape showing on just one side around the LED. Wish I could get 4040 20 mm MCPCB's though. I think the lack of availability of MCPCB's and centering pieces are really holding it back. To me it's about a perfect upgrade for the old XM-L2 and XPL lights - great tint and outstanding output.
For this X6 with the threaded down reflector and no LED centering piece, the MCPCB itself needs to be well centered. I should play around with fitting copper strips around the 16 mm MCPCB to get it centered, then see if that improves the hot spot's corona.
If you can get me corner to corner measurements I can 3D print some centering rings for you.
I PM-ed Sundy for a quote.
A 4040 is 4.0 mm x 4.0 mm. Wondering if a 5050 adapter "square" could be 3D printed, then in theory you could use existing XM centering pieces. Was wondering if you had enough accuracy in printing on a 3D printer. We have one here @work but I don't know how to use it myself.
There's the SS/Cu X6 (but it doesn't actually use a centering ring), a Lumintop SD Mini, regular Lumintop SD, and a SupFire L1 I'll need centering pieces for. I'lll have to get measurements. Even if you send me the 3D printer files, maybe I can print them here? We have a UltiMaker 3 Extended model. I'll learn how to do it. A mech. designer here has done a couple things for me, but he's in inches and had problems in converting.
We should really have pushed ThorFire to upgrade the Q8 to the Luxeon V in 4000K tint for the later batches. Might be cheaper than the XPL's, better tint, more output .Would make a good upgrade - dunno what's goin on in the next batch, but I see they are now available on Amazon. Guy at work here said he got a 30% coupon from Amazon today, bringing the price down to $50 on Amazon Prime.
I also got that coupon for the Q8 on amazon.
Yeah, that 3D printer should handle it no problem, I have had good luck with ABS centering rings but PLA should work fine as well.
www.tinkercad.com is a really simple way to make custom centering rings, just setup the circles to the sizes you want and set the height.
I can send you my existing centering ring CAD collection, although most of them are for XP LED’s.
Looks like the ID of the ring would need to be 5.65mm, do you know what the ID of the reflector is?
No, sorry - I'm at work, no notes with me, but should be home a little early today. Hhhm-- Cool!! TinkerCAD - think you recommended this before to me and I forgot (of course). Boy, wayyy behind on emails and pm's. That SD Mini light is a nice one - using one of your TA 22 mm drivers for it, switch is side mounted with 2 LEDs - interesting they too are using only one resistor on the switch PCB. It's a 0402 w/value less than 1K, I swapped for a larger value 0603 - worked ok, though not set up yet with the driver. The driver needed trimming as well as the MCPCB because the switch PCB overlaps the space in the pill cavity, the shelf, and above the shelf in the reflector cavity so the MCPCB, even the smaller 16 mm, needs trimming to clear the wires.
Driver though was glued in, sort of tough hard glue too. Used a pick thru a LED wire hole from top to push on the driver to break the glue bond - it actually cracked the top PCB. Driver/charger are 2 PCB's, stacked. For the new driver, I won't bother with glue - the battery tube will hold it in place.
Been very bizy at work as of late, and a dog with failing kidneys, some home projects, etc.
Yeah, I hear you with being busy. You can skip ahead when you have time and we will fill you in on the details. Things are moving fast now lol.
Tinkercad is fairly limited in the big picture but is perfect for centering rings.
Sounds like a fun mod, after 6 months since my last builds I have a few projects lined up that I am looking forward to.
@Tom
ABS centering rings are better I guess.
PLA can get soft from 60C on, you cant use it for a coffee cup. Don’t ask how I know.
@Tom
Jacques has a manual for the GT. Can you look at it?
Mode table and if sth important missing.
You are hard to reach nowadays
@TA
how hot gets a MCPCB around the LED?
i would be worried PLA would melt.
glass transition temperature
pure PLA 45C (but most filaments are blends and a bit higher)
ABS 110C
You are correct, PLA is not ideal, I had forgotten how low the melting point for PLA is. I have not used it in years, I only use ABS now days.