Stunning KB!
I should probably add components and links in the OP to avoid people asking for the same thing a lot
Springs:
I know I can find those links
Screws?
Links please
SMD LEDs?
Links please
AR coated glass?
Links please
Ultra clear glass?
Links please
oshpark PCB for switch assembly?
Links please
If I see a reply with link I will add it at the top of the OP
If I forgot things, let me know.
I’ll try 75k resistors first to reduce the brightness a bit.
2 led
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/WyCndMlE
4 led
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/rsgCjoXc
thanks
- new switches for the switchboard (https://www.banggood.com/50pcs-4x4x2_5mm-Waterproof-Copper-Button-SMD-Tactile-Tact-Micro-Push-Switch-4-Pin-p-1024026.html?rmmds=myorder)
- UCLp™ AR Acrylic Lens - Custom Size (FlashlightLens.com - Your source for high quality glass and acrylic flashlight lenses. - Flashlightlens.com - Online Store)
I would like the mcu to control 2 different switch led colors. I guess it’s possible to modify the existing 4 led board but would prefer a board with 2 pads, each for 2 opposite leds.
I got the Infineon FET working well in a Q8 today. Hard to tell if the same or any better than the SIR404DP though - probably need a couple more sample lights to compare it on. So far working good, listed here: https://www.arrow.com/en/products/bsc009ne2ls5atma1/infineon-technologies-ag.
The specs are pretty crazy - 100A max continuous, less resistance, better timings, lower input/output/rev transfer capacitance, etc. It's superior in almost every spec from the 800 or 404.
It says 41A max for me…
There's 5 #'s listed, 4 are 100A, 1 is 41A, and the 41A is listed at 10V. I don't know what it all means, but comparing to the 404, again it's still better.
Tom what did you have to do to get it working well?
Switch 0805 leds - received a bunch recently:
Copper braided wire - received some 6mm too:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-15-22mm-1M-3-3ft-Pure-Copper-Braid-Cable-Bare-Copper-Braid-Wire-Ground-Lead/142458654377
How about GITD stuff like orings and tape?
Some oring dimension and links would be nice…
You should add that they need to order the 2oz ones.
Is there any way to order extra “bodies” of the Q8 with an extra tail cap for a classy 4 cell spare carrier? Thanks…
Ohh. Just tried another FET. I bought 3: one I used ok in the MT03 but pulled it out, 2nd couldn't get to work in a Q8, replaced with a 404, then tried 3rd one in a Q8 again, but I reflowed more carefully this time - took the driver completely out, used my coffee mug warmer this time. Think what I did before was reflow using just the hot air. Dunno if that was the difference but the 3rd one is working. Good enough to convince me they will work. Will be placing an Arrow order now for a bunch more, but still will get more 404's. The specs on the Infineon are great, but the reading I'm getting are a little lower than a Q8 with a 404, and all other mods the same. Still, there's too many variables to say convincingly the 404 is better, and just one sample measured like this, can't say for sure.
So I checked out Lexel’s Q8 4-led switch board. First I noticed is that (when ordered at 2 oz) it is thinner (not real problem) but also smaller (10.9mm vs 11.9mm) than the stock board, meaning that it will not clamp into its cavity and so it is not possible to orientate it, instead it rotates with the switch cover and ends up in a random orientation.
The front side was reflowed on the heat block. Had to remove D3 a few times to get it right, a piece of dirt got under one of the solder pads.
The back side was hand-soldered. But those pads are sooo tiny, and very close together. My 0603 resistors were too large for the R1 and R2 pads (btw, the resistor labeling does not match the diode labeling, R1 and R2 go to D3 and D4), so since the leds are the same type I grouped the leds D3 and D4 and just made a stack of their two resistors.
It took a while troubleshooting before I got all 4 leds working, the pads bridge a bit too easy for comfort (i.e. the picture shows a bridge between S and R3 that I removed later). But it worked in the end. I chose 4x 22K resistors, for these lime leds that is a bit much, I wanted the leds a bit brighter than this.
This is how it looks, sort of: the leds look dimmer in reality, and lime shows up as plain green on camera.
So the board works but the soldering is hard to do. And I would like it to be 1mm wider to be able to make it press-fit into the Q8.
It looks nice, but seems like it won't be easy. I have only 3 on order, but for $1 shipped, cost is insignificant. If Lexel gets time, would be nice to have it a little bigger. Not sure if there's much he can do with the back side layout - not much space to work with.
Greetings Tom, Dale & Djozz & the Q8 BLF Team,
For the switch led mod, would any of you be willing to do the soldering & leds,(perhaps the C2 capacitor addition on the driver as well) for those of us who admire your work but look as the micro soldering involved & realize if I tried that I would end up with a pile of melted mess that no longer works? I apologize if this post is not appropriate & should have been done with PM’s, but I think there may be others also who think “that is so cool” so I asked publicly. I can do a fair amount of modding, but having had 4 major surgeries this year with complications, & it was all I could do just to swap out screws and to be honest I put off the spring replacement/bypass for a few weeks…
Thanks in advance for the replies. I love the Q8 and am very appreciative for all the hard work that made it happen.
I've posted a "BETA" version update of NarsilM, version 1.2, details in the NarsilM thread.
Info on the update here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/45888/296
Dnld link info posted here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/45888/302
Would appreciate feedback on this. I really wanted to do a whole lot more, but I'm time limited. I would take suggestions on features and functional changes, but more concerned with reliability and confirmation of the changes. Lexel provided input to most of these changes I believe, so of course I'm hoping Lexel, you would have the time to try it out.
Thanks All !
I'm on the east coast, but possible I could do something. What exactly would you like, the new quad LED switch board? Is there anything wrong with your current LED LED/switch board? If I go with a new board, I'd have spare stock boards.Even the 1 resistor stock board is pretty decent when you use good LEDs on it.