Q8 modding

[Crazyeddie]

PM sent

[Tom_E]

Not sure if anyone reported this or noticed it, but a spare SRK tail PCB here for $2: http://www.lightmalls.com/diy-battery-base-for-king-flashlight-1pc

Will check dims, if it matches, I'm gonna order a couple to have spares - cheaper than OSHPark boards.

[Tom_Tom]

The Miller, a suggestion for your links on the first page:

DEL’s schematic diagram:

Q8 modding

Don’t know if this is useful Tom. Done from memory of prototype#3, so may not match 100% what is in the production models. It also shows the 2-resistor version of the switchboard. If anyone sees something amiss I can correct it. Also need to add the FET part number. EDIT: FET part number added and R6 corrected to 4.99 ohm [image]

Direct link to image: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/content_link/2LCXYBvNuZtqerJMB5v43VLjx4Q2wzRIryGpFIXbJqAh6ahpQsdU6TC9CBf9B21J/file

Also a photo of front and back of driver, parts list , OshPark page to order a PCB and a pointer to Tom E’s Narsil development threads would be handy.

Actually if Thorfire would sell them as spare parts, complete with brass ring etc. I’d snap up several to upgrade some SRKs.

Cheers.

[Lexel]

Those are 0805 resistors, the board is designed for 0603 and they should fit
I fixed the 1mm missing diameter here

2 LED

4 LED

@djozz

So I checked out Lexel’s Q8 4-led switch board. First I noticed is that (when ordered at 2 oz) it is thinner (not real problem) but also smaller (10.9mm vs 11.9mm) than the stock board, meaning that it will not clamp into its cavity and so it is not possible to orientate it, instead it rotates with the switch cover and ends up in a random orientation.

The front side was reflowed on the heat block. Had to remove D3 a few times to get it right, a piece of dirt got under one of the solder pads.

The back side was hand-soldered. But those pads are sooo tiny, and very close together. My 0603 resistors were too large for the R1 and R2 pads (btw, the resistor labeling does not match the diode labeling, R1 and R2 go to D3 and D4), so since the leds are the same type I grouped the leds D3 and D4 and just made a stack of their two resistors.

It took a while troubleshooting before I got all 4 leds working, the pads bridge a bit too easy for comfort (i.e. the picture shows a bridge between S and R3 that I removed later). But it worked in the end. I chose 4x 22K resistors, for these lime leds that is a bit much, I wanted the leds a bit brighter than this.

This is how it looks, sort of: the leds look dimmer in reality, and lime shows up as plain green on camera.

So the board works but the soldering is hard to do. And I would like it to be 1mm wider to be able to make it press-fit into the Q8.

[Lexel]

@Tom E

Not sure if anyone reported this or noticed it, but a spare SRK tail PCB here for $2: http://www.lightmalls.com/diy-battery-base-for-king-flashlight-1pc

Will check dims, if it matches, I’m gonna order a couple to have spares - cheaper than OSHPark boards.

This board if you look at it has only at the back 2 traces connected from holes to the springs, while the Q8 has 8 traces to the 4 holes 2 on each side

the hole distance is identical

[Tom_Tom]

@Lexel

@Tom E

Not sure if anyone reported this or noticed it, but a spare SRK tail PCB here for $2: http://www.lightmalls.com/diy-battery-base-for-king-flashlight-1pc

Will check dims, if it matches, I’m gonna order a couple to have spares - cheaper than OSHPark boards.

This board if you look at it has only at the back 2 traces connected from holes to the springs, while the Q8 has 8 traces to the 4 holes 2 on each side

the hole distance is identical

Why fanny about with PCBs ? Copper sheet, e.g a piece 2mm thick by 300x100mm, more than enough for 12 tail “boards” costs just £10 delivered.

e.g. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CHEAP-0-5mm-upto-6mm-Copper-Sheet-Plate-Guillotine-Cut-Metal-Copper-Sheet/291734258588?

And is so easy to work with.

[WillyD]

Anyone else find the spring solder to be especially hard to work with? I had to flow in a bunch of solder to get it to break loose. The stock solder was in weird lumps. Maybe it needed more heat, but didn’t want to over do it.

[Tom_E]

I'll have to take a closer look, but think I see what you are talking bout with those tail boards.

Just got a 2 LED and 4 LED board from Scott today - no time to try them, been busy with NarsilM tonight, but wow, they do look small, but looks like 0603's to me.

I'l be ordering a bunch of those bigger ones though -- thanks Lexel!

[Tom_E]

@WillyD

Anyone else find the spring solder to be especially hard to work with? I had to flow in a bunch of solder to get it to break loose. The stock solder was in weird lumps. Maybe it needed more heat, but didn’t want to over do it.

It's horrible stuff, but I've replaced 3 sets of springs so far and yes - load up the iron tip with solder, the work it around the spring bottom - and with a full load on the tip, get between the rings and get it to the center of the pad, gentle pressure to pull it off. Haven't had a problem yet, but it takes time - I take the bad solder all off with solder wick.

[g_sintornillos]

@Tom Tom

Why fanny about with PCBs ? Copper sheet, e.g a piece 2mm thick

Q8 modding

Ahhhh much better…. [image] [image] [image] Just have to polish and bypass, brass screws, NO-OX-ID and assemble…

Q8 modding

No bump disconnect either…. [image] [image] I Countered bored the top (spring side) of the bypass holes in the copper plate to leave the bypass hole thin to aid in soldering the 20awg wire, makes it a lot easier!

.

The plate of Noctigon Meteor M43 is 1mm thick

[Flashy_Mike]

@Lexel

Those are 0805 resistors, the board is designed for 0603 and they should fit
I fixed the 1mm missing diameter here

2 LED

4 LED

Nice boards!
What do you think of modifying the 4 LED board for 2 separate positive LED wire pads (each for 2 opposite LEDs)? I guess it’s only a small modification if you pull the “left” half of the LED pad with the connected traces for the “top” and “bottom” LEDs towards the “left” edge of the board. It would be possible then to control 2 different colors independently. With alternative or modified firmware, of course.
With a small separation line between the LED wire pads they can be solder brigded easily for standard operation.

(“Left”, “top”, “bottom” relating to the OSH park images.)

[djozz]

@Lexel

Those are 0805 resistors, the board is designed for 0603 and they should fit
I fixed the 1mm missing diameter here

2 LED

4 LED

And you corrected the labeling
Thanks Lexel!

[Flintrock]

@Tom Tom

@Flashy Mike

A hand bump is not the proper test for power breaks - too much attenuation. I really don’t understand this messing around with stiffer springs, additional copper sheets, pennies at al. In my view the best solution is still an additional buffer condensator in parallel to C2 - easier to apply, cheap and more reliable.

I couldn’t agree more. Addresses the root cause of the problem.

I don't see how fixing battery disconnect by not fixing battery disconnect is fixing the "root cause" . The cap is a nice solution though, but the light will still blink off, it just won't change modes. I assume that's visible. Very minor in comparison, but still there. I fixed mine by soldering blobbing some already long protected cells. I was thinking of stripping the protection, but enh.. maybe I'll leave it.

[Zulumoose]

I don’t see how fixing battery disconnect by not fixing battery disconnect is fixing the “root cause” .

I guess the correct wording would be “alleviates the key symptom of the problem”

[Flashy_Mike]

@Flintrock

I assume that’s visible.

It’s hardly visible. And more reliable than your approach. Works with all cells.
I don’t like the idea of squeezing the cells into the light. The springs might wear out, the metal plate at the positive end of the cell may bend inside.

A combination of cap and stiff springs might be the best solution though.

[Flintrock]

@djozz

@Jtm94

Physical lockout doesn’t really work for him anymore. He has to unscrew to the point where the batteries stop making contact which is a good distance. Too much of the anodizing has come off between the battery tube and head.

I was wondering about that. The driver sits in the anodised head, so only electrical contact is done via the screws. If you insulate the screws from the driver with a thin plastic ring, the lockout works again.

Or just leave the screws out, or go with the dab of glue option.

[Flintrock]

@Flashy Mike

@Flintrock

I assume that’s visible.

It’s hardly visible. And more reliable than your approach. Works with all cells. I don’t like the idea of squeezing the cells into the light. The springs might wear out, the metal plate at the positive end of the cell may bend inside. A combination of cap and stiff springs might be the best solution though.

Wasn't exactly an approach. Just kind of happened that way. It's solid though. Not visible sounds good. I like the cap too.

[rocketshipdog]

Tom, I would be glad to run around the corner and drop off my Q8 to you for whatever Frankenstein testing you’d like to do, so long as in the end I get it back upgraded in some way. I will pay for whatever parts/time are required.

[Tom_E]

@rocketshipdog

Tom, I would be glad to run around the corner and drop off my Q8 to you for whatever Frankenstein testing you’d like to do, so long as in the end I get it back upgraded in some way. I will pay for whatever parts/time are required.

Sure! I could upgrade it to V1.2 and give it some bumping up - a boost, some treatments, whatever you like. I'll pm you.

[joechina]

Interesting:
I can hear sounds from the tailcap, when I switch in strobe modes.
At least it seems to come from the tail.

I had to press my ear on the bottom.
I have a fully stock lamp. And a 1mm thick wire between tube and driver board (as scratch guard). So my springs are less compressed

Without the wire in the head it is much less noisier.

What is this?
Springs moving via current and ringing?

Has anyone a better explanation?

Edit: That sound is also on my second lamp.