I received my Q8 2 days ago. Unfortunately mine also has fault power switch LED’s. They worked at first then flickered and have now been off since the first day. The Q8 is excellent other than that.
When you know input voltage, Vf of diode and desired current it is easy to calculate.
MIke
Auch, will add you.
Can you make some pics of the led assembly?
Where did you get the lanyard?
Thanks
Thank you, your video was the one I was looking for in this HUGE thread, will save it for later reference… 
review
That’s on paper, according to the specs… But those switch leds are way underdriven and can behave erratically… like one is brighter then the other at the same current - and that’s assuming they come from the same batch and manufacturer. IIUC it’s easier if they are bright, but having them reliably dim is more difficult - to say the least.
Indeed. If I had to make the call I’d just put in 27K or lower and have done. Then wait for the moaning that they are too bright (answer, if you don’t like it, turn them off why don’t you)
I play with electronic circuits more that 30 years. It is my work for more than 20 years.
It should be known at design stage. Implemented, period.
First thing I gonna do when my Q8 arrive. use proper resistors with button leds.
Mike
Turn off Issue from warm/turbo.
Cleaned out the white powder from under the base circuit board just incase this effects lumens, green light works fine, its had a good couple of hours of use at now, sometimes does not turn off from turbo first press of the button, I have to ramp down a bit then turn off, it done this last night several times and twice tonight, seems to only do it when it gets warm. But that is not a issue with such a awesome torch to me I can live with that. For £32 delivered it was a steal.
Hi djozz, OK… I am rested up enough now to have a civil conversation with you about your apparent concerns, allegations, and uneasy mind.
First let me apologize to you for using the term/abbreviation “BS”.
I was in a real hurry to get to work & to be honest was somewhat taken back by your accusations & allegations. That term just popped into my rushed & confused mind as I was writing a quick reply. And much to my dismay I used it in my hurried reply. No excuses though, I was wrong.
So my apologies djozz…… I honestly never meant in any way to be a cause for your ‘uneasy mind about my intentions’, or anyone else’s; over this.
So here is the timeline.
- I received Q8 #2 on 9-20-2017. It was a Wednesday afternoon around 1300 cdt.
- When I got around to opening it I discovered it was DOA (DeadOnArrival) . A common term used when a flashlight arrives in a non-working condition.
- I posted that Wed, 09/20/2017 at 19:02 cdt, right HERE , as requested. See Q8 #2 on the linked page
- Later that evening around 2300 cdt I decided to open it up & see if I saw anything obvious that could be the problem.
- After a few unrelated interruptions…… Just do happens I did.
- It was then very early Wednesday morning 9-21-2017 around 0200 cdt, so I had to get to bed & try to get a couple hours sleep before I had to get up at about 0415 cdt for a very long day of work.
- When I did awake I saw I had a PM from The Miller … I answered it.
- Then,while I was quickly grabbing a bite to eat ran through new posts on the Q8 thread.
- That is when I saw your two post that seemed to imply that I was up to something by being “vague so as to intentionally cause panic”. And also your mind was no longer at ease about the Q8 because of my “intentions”. (whatever that meant)
- To be honest djozz… that just hurt. I could see no reason for your attack. It was quite presumptuous on your part it seemed to me.
I mean when something is DOA, what else is there to report until the problem is discovered?
At the time you basically slandered me… there was nothing for sure to report yet. I had reported what I had found to The Miller, as had been requested. I was unaware that I needed to report to you also…. my apologies for not knowing that.
BUT either way… I did not want to post anything until what I had found was the confirmed problem. That is why I just told The Miller when I answered his PM. If he wanted to share it… fine with me.
I would think the words I said… “this appears to be a very easy ““fix”“ & just an isolated case of stuff happens” would have been enough to keep you from panicking. Obviously, by what you wrote above; it was not… so please accept my apology for apparently putting you into a panic.
Apologies also to anyone else that was affected in this way by my post.
djozz, if this does not ease your mind and correct any suspicions you had about my “intentions”… please let me know what I can do to help you be whole.
Thank you……
The Miller…. sorry to have been absent for a while but life got in the way and that came first. Not sad at all actually as there was a good outcome. Now on to the Q8…….
Please forgive me for using the word DOA (Dead On Arrival) I just assumed you would know what that meant. But it seems from what you write above it confused you. My apologies.
And as far as only writing only a few sentences about a DOA light… what can I say. Not really much more can be said until the ‘problem’ is discovered.
As you, I, & TomE agreed in our last PM early morning (my time) of 9-21-2017; IF what I suspected was the minor problem was not the answer… I would send the light to Tom.
The loose wire was it . It appears to have been a bad solder joint. Not much more to say about that…. stuff happens.
This light, (Q8 #2 in my inventory); is NO LONGER DOA. The suspected problem was indeed the problem… a very simple fix as it turns out.
However the light is still on the Injured Reserve List …. 
The switch lights will not light when the light is off. Both switch LED’s will blink at the appropriate time for battery check, temperature check, FirmWare 1.0 check., and any other time they are supposed to. (this is mentioned for data purposes only… It is NOT a complaint).
Pictures
- Cellphone pictures were worse than horrible
- Nikon was retrieved after 10 months of no use and was DOA… imagine that. :person_facepalming:
- I am gonna borrow my friends camera when he get’s back in town first of week and get pics if you still need/want them.
Thank you sir… these are really nice lights.
That is about all I have for now……
Narsil text info is good. Is there a text file of the info that went into the PDF image manual?
I tried enlarging a copy of the image file to be more readable, but the text gets fuzzy when magnified.
I need to find a Fresnel magnifying lens to slip into the tailcap with the folded manual paper.
> DOA
The Internet Acronym Server is a very useful reference, though sometimes offers too many possibilities.
Received mine today and saw the same as posted by others - threads mostly dry, stripped screw heads, unbalanced switch led brightness, contact ring dirty, and led centering a bit off. I also noticed minor nicks in the head end of the battery tube and a thin sliver of aluminum about 1mm wide and 6 or 7 mm long hanging from the inner edge of the tube. Might be good to check for burrs and such before installing cells. A bit of sanding on some well worn 400 grit and white paper for further smoothing and the surface looks good. Watching switch leds to see what happens. No dents or damage with only a minor crease across the ‘lid’ face of the box.
@hank
Don’t know exactly what you mean
Could be the Flashlight User Interfaces Cheatsheets
from CRX
I would ask CRX
otherwise the sheet included is under http://bit.ly/narsil-cs
And Tom’s google drive
Got mine and have a few issues.
First it is super dirty. 10 q-tips just to clean the positive contact.
Second one of the driver screws is cross-threaded and stripped. It’s not coming out without a drill.
Lastly. It may just be me… But turning off the indicator led in the switch takes a miracle of timing. Takes a good dozen tries to get it off.
Nothing catastrophic, but that screw has me super annoyed.
Is there a way to have the button led always on? Even when the light is running?
I managed to get my unbalanced LEDs ‘balanced’ by using a fine tip black permanent marker!
I placed a small black dot on the LED which dims the light just enough to make it appear just as bright as the LED with the lowest intensity.
Screw on the switch cover and it looks perfect!
Should this be fixed by the second/third batches? I’m thinking about canceling my orders
Joechina, thanks, both those sources are PDF files (images)
Try enlarging either of them in sections to make readable pages — the font gets fuzzy.
No big deal. Just wondered if whatever document was saved to PDF is available in original wordprocessing file form, to enlarge the font size.
No need to cancel your order, it should be fixed for the next batch